July/August 2006

20 July 2006 – Thursday

Departure day for trip #4 to Kosovo.   

I was smart last night.  I MADE myself go to bed at a normal hour unlike the last trip when I snuck in a 2 hour nap before heading for the airport to begin the 22 hour journey to Kosovo.  I even got all of the packing done before hitting the pillow.  Perhaps organization in my personal life is worthwhile.  At my age sleep is definitely something I’ve GOT to get a better handle on. 

I am VERY excited about this particular trip.  It seems on the past 3 trips we spent more time getting to know people, the “lay of the land” and about the issues than we did actually resolving anything.  Then we spent time figuring out where PTP would best be suited in working to make a difference.  This time we are ACTUALLY going to begin the process of making a HUGE difference.  Exciting, daunting and nerve racking all rolled in to one.  Dr. Anderson and I have had meeting after meeting after meeting in preparation for the Educational Summit.  INPO and KFOR have been unbelievable on their end (in Kosovo) assisting us in preparation for the summit.  I’m encouraged that the ball is rolling and believe that it will be impossible to stop it until we are finished.

I am a wee bit concerned about the weight of my luggage.  I did ship several boxes in advance with materials for the Educational Summit but there were last minute items that have to go and I wasn’t sure there was enough time to ensure they would arrive via mail.  Guess we’ll see what the airline scales say then beg for mercy if necessary.

My friend David McDuff arrived 10 minutes early to pick me up.  He’s taking me to the airport so that I don’t have to pay for three weeks of parking while I’m gone.  He and his wife Tonya are the BEST friends a woman could have.  While I am gone they will check my mail, take care of any necessary business I may have, keep a watch on the house, etc.  I never worry about things at home when I am away because I know they will always stay on top of things.

Arrived at the airport and reached for a bag.  UGH!  Yep, this weight is going to be an issue.  As I walked through the doors into the lobby for my flight all of my friends from Delta were there.   They saw me and a couple of them began coming my way to assist with the luggage and give hugs.  They were calling out, “today is the day!”  “You’re going back to Kosovo, aren’t you.”  They have always been supporters and I am grateful to have them in my life.

Checked in – last few hugs and through security.  Weight wasn’t mentioned so I didn’t bring it up! 

Arrived in Atlanta and made my way to the international concourse.  As I expected there were Soldiers everywhere awaiting flights back to Iraq and Afghanistan.  Some were just returning to Europe.  Regardless, it’s a sight I can never get used to and can never get enough of.  So, in my normal manner I begin “concourse cruising”.  I walk up and down the concourse approaching Soldiers who seem to have the “you can talk to me” look.  There are some who definitely have the “I’d rather you didn’t talk to me” look and I can appreciate that.  Having the opportunity to shake the hands of those amazing men and women who volunteered to be our military is such a privilege.  Visiting with them and listening to their stories from the theaters as well as of their families is always a blessing.  Being able to thank them and their families for their service is an honor.

I realized I had an issue with my ticket so I went to the international counter and asked if my friend Vickie was working.  She was.  I was able to get the ticket corrected and visit with her for a few minutes – that was an nice bonus.

Purchased one last EXTRA LARGE to go cup of iced tea and made my way to the gate.  Boarded, got settled and off to Zurich we go!  Saw a flight attendant I’ve had on other Atlanta-Zurich flights.  Chatted with her a bit.  Ate a little food them put on the headphones, eye covers and called it a “night.”

21 July 2006 – Friday - Zurich

We landed on time.  I breezed through passport control, got my bags, scooted through customs and outside to breath some fresh Swiss air.  Ah!  One of these days I may actually plan better so that I can spend a day or two here instead of 3 or 4 hours in the airport.  One of these days…………………

Kristy Van Lanen was meeting me in the Zurich airport.  We had agreed to meet at the Starbucks around 8:30 AM.  I was standing outside around 8:00 AM and she walked up.  She had arrived in Zurich a day before I did due to a lack of seats on the flight I took.  Kristy is a SGT in the Army Reserves.  She served in OIF1 and has also deployed to Kosovo.  She is currently home and attending university.  Since it is summer and she had some time off I invited her to come along with us for a myriad of reasons.  She knows the people with whom we will be working and they know and trust her.  She knows her way around Kosovo.  She is committed to the projects we are working on.  And, she is just one amazing young lady.  So, she’ll be our driver this time when we are in the civilian vehicle and she will provide support when we need to be in more than one place at a time.  I am thrilled that Kristy agreed to come on this trip. 

Anyway, it was GREAT to see her.  I last saw her at Ft. Benning, GA when she returned from her deployment to Kosovo in October 2005.  We hugged, said hellos and scurried off to the Austrian Air Ticket Counter to get checked in for our flights to Kosovo.  The line was long but moved quickly.  We were called by one of the counter attendants.  I lugged my big bags down.  Kristy had two of the smallest bags I’ve ever seen for someone who is going to be away for three weeks.  I guess it is that Army training.  We had over our documents and stand there chit chatting when I hear the dreaded words, “You are overweight.”  For once I wished the comment was being made about me personally but I KNEW it was about the bags.  I’ll spare you the details about the process but even after stuffing some of my things in Kristy’s bags I had to pony up 125 Euros.  OUCH!  DEFINITELY would have been cheaper to ship from the US but too late now.  BIG lesson learned.

We doubled back to Starbucks for one last Ice Soy Latte (don’t have those in the Balkans – actually, you can’t even get coffee “to go” in the Balkans).  Then through passport control and off to the gate.  The flight from Zurich to Vienna went off without a hitch.  Got to Vienna and our flight was delayed for a little over an hour.  I was torn between not being able to call the Soldiers who were meeting us (no way to do that) and smirking that for ONCE they would be “on time.”  OK, the “wishing I could call them” won out – after all, they are in Kosovo on a mission and not to wait at an airport for me.  But, I didn’t have a way to call them so I bought chocolate instead.  No, not for me.  For Adelina.  She sort of expects that great Austrian chocolate the minute we get to her house.

It seems there was a flight coming in from New York that was delayed and had about 40 or 50- people on it who were connecting to Prishtinë/Priština.  So, we waited.  They finally arrived and off we went.  We landed in Prishtinë/Priština and as we were taxing to the terminal I noticed a KFOR helicopter on the tarmac with rotors going.  I laughed out loud.  Of course I knew that meant there was some VIP on the plane with us who would be whisked off to either KFOR Main or to Camp Bondsteel.  But, there’s been this on-going “joke” about me getting a helo ride while in Kosovo.  NOT going to happen and I know that but I couldn’t help but laugh about the helo being there.  I knew as soon as I saw LTC Holliday I was going to thank him for being so considerate.

It took FOREVER for our luggage to be unloaded.  That is SO painful as I know that our welcome committee is just on the other side of “that wall” but I can’t see them and they can’t see me.  ARGH!  Got the luggage, out the door and there they were.  SGT Pelliccio (Anthony) approached and gave me a big hug and began talking about how they were beginning to become concerned that we had missed the flight.  Now, Anthony is a very intelligent young man.  I couldn’t resist mentioning that the flight was LATE and that is why WE were LATE.  He smiled!  I also couldn’t resist making a comment (since it was out of my control) that for once they had to wait for us.  If you’ve read prior journals this is the first time they’ve been “on time.”

I was happy, but surprised, to see that LTC Holliday was there to welcome us.  I know how darn busy he is.   For him to take the time to come welcome us to Kosovo meant a lot to me.  Also along were Dada, Dani and Kushtrim (Kusha).  Dada, as you may (SHOULD) remember has become one of my dearest friends.  She is from near Belgrade and helps us out with interpreting the Serbian language.  Dani, of course, is our Albanian interpreter and I stay with his family when in Kosovo.  Kusha is another wonderful young Albanian man who is my friend.  It was SO good to see all of them.  We hugged and chatted as we pulled the luggage towards the vehicles, loaded up and began the journey to Prishtinë/Priština. (I’m going to try to be more “politically correct” this time.  When you see 2 names of towns the first name is in Albanian and the second in Serbian).

By the time we got to Prishtinë/Priština is was close to 1900 (7:00 PM) and we were all hungry.  I figured Dani’s mother had not fixed dinner as they don’t typically have dinner in their home.  So, I suggested we all stop and grab something to eat.  Dani tried to tell me his mother was cooking and I knew she wasn’t.  He tried to snag a phone to call her and we wouldn’t let him.  We decided to stop by Jimmy’s for dinner.  It’s one of our favorites in Prishtinë/Priština.  While we were there eating Jacob Sabatini from Caritas Kosovo stopped by.  Jacob is a fine man and it was very good to see him.  He stayed only briefly but we made plans to get together later in the trip.

After dinner we made our way to the Ilazi’s house.  By now I’ve been traveling for over 2 days and I was ready to unpack and hit the sack.  WHAT WAS I THINKING?  As we pulled up the whole family poured out of the house.  Lots of hugs and kisses.  Bags up the stairs.  Adelina had made beautiful “welcome” signs for the door of “my” room and her room.  Kristy was going to be bunking with Adelina.  She could have shared my room but Adelina really wanted Kristy to stay with her and Kristy was fine with that.  We didn’t even unpack – well, I did grab the chocolates.  Down the stairs to the family room.  Anthony and LTC Holliday, Dada and Kusha all stayed until around 22:30 (10:30 PM).  We visited, drank tea, laughed and relaxed.  I was happy to get to visit with LTC Holliday for so long since I won’t be seeing him much while I’m here and I wanted to be sure we were in agreement with the projects and the logistics.  He is an amazing man and a great Soldier.  I hope to have the opportunity to meet his wife and children someday soon.  They must also be amazing because of the way he speaks of them.

Off to bed.  Swatted at mosquitoes and attempted to fall asleep.  One of the boxes I shipped in advance has my mosquito spray but, it’s at Camp Bondsteel tonight.  Darn it! Oh, I failed to mention it’s both the wedding “season” and circumcision “month” in Kosovo.  Now that’s another WHOLE story!  Suffice to say the music and gun shots went on well into the wee hours of the morning. 

It is SOOOOOOOOOOO good to be back in Kosovo and I am SOOOOOOOOO excited about the days to come.

22 July 2006 – Saturday - Kosovo

This morning was both unusual and “normal” in Kosovo.  It was unusual because I didn’t have to wake up to an alarm clock.  It was “normal” because I woke up to no power.  UGH!  I KNEW I should have taken a shower last night after a 2 day journey!  Oh well.  If it doesn’t come on soon I’ll just take my things with me and beg a shower at Camp Bondsteel.

I slept so good last night.  I’m amazed at how quickly I now settle in to life at my second “home.”  I woke up this morning to a chorus of cows mooing, chickens clucking, roosters crowing, children laughing and crying and crows SCREECHING!  One crow was sitting on my window sill.  I tried to shoo it away verbally.  That didn’t work.  So, I hoped out of bed and walked to the window flailing my arms like a crazy women.  He looked at me, dipped his legs a bit as if to gain momentum then flew off with a look back to me like he’d get even.  I stood for a moment looking out across the roof tops of the neighborhood.  No music this morning.  That’s a relief from last night.  I think every family except the Ilazis must have been celebrating either a wedding or a circumcision last night.  As I said yesterday – it’s the season!  I’ve never really asked many questions about why there is a “season” for weddings and circumcisions and I didn’t this trip either.  Guess I just accept that it is, so why does it matter?

What one should know about the majority of the Albanian weddings here is that they last for a minimum of three days.  There is a women’s party, a men’s party and then the wedding itself.  Honestly I’m not sure in what order they occur.  I do know that each one consists of LONG hours of LOUD music and dancing.  The music lasts well into the wee hours of the morning.  I also know that, at one point, the entire wedding party and all guests load up in cars, trucks, vans, wagons, etc and form a convoy from Point A to Point B.  Again, forgive me for not knowing if Point A is the home and Point B is the place of marriage or what.  Regardless, the front vehicle generally has someone flying the flag.  All of the remaining vehicles have towels tied to the windshield wipers.  This denotes that they are in the wedding convoy and is supposed to deter others from breaking into the line of vehicles.  People (including children) sit on the doors and hang out the windows.  It really seems quite dangerous but this is the way it is done as they drive through the village streets and down the highways.  Everyone honks, waves, shouts and flashes their lights.  It’s quite something to see – especially when you see 2 or 3 or 4 different convoys back to back to back.  Ok, I confess.  I rolled down the window one day and sat in the window of the vehicle but ONLY to take this photo of one of the Soldiers participating in a convoy.  The wedding party LOVED having us join their celebration.  Admittedly we didn’t participate for long and we didn’t attend the party but it was still fun!

Joining in a wedding convoy celebration between Gjilan/Gnjilane and Kllokot/Klokot.

I also know very little about the circumcision celebrations other than the young boys generally range in age between 6 and 10, it is a one night celebration with music and dancing and the convoys are limited to three vehicles in lieu of the unlimited number for the weddings.  Honestly, I didn’t want to know more about this ritual as it seems so darn painful.

I digress-

The power finally came on so I ran to the shower before it might go off again.  Ah!!!!!  I woke Kristy up and she jumped in right behind me.  Around 10:00 Anthony and Dada came to pick us up and off we went to Camp Bondsteel.  The plan for today is to make sure we have all of the materials, equipment and supplies ready for the Educational Summit.

Our first stop was in North Town to retrieve boxes from one of the storage containers.  We had to ship everything from the US since the availability of materials is limited, at best, in Kosovo.  The one item we did not have to ship was the manual.  I sent 5 of them to Anthony and he had them translated into Serbian and Albanian then had them printed.  He, personally, bound each of them and made sure they were distributed to the participants in advance of the Summit so that they could familiarize themselves with the material.  I’ll NEVER be able to thank him enough for all that he did before and during this visit.  He is so amazing!  I kept telling him it was a good thing that he was 20+ years younger than me or I’d consider marrying him!

We found MOST of the items we were looking for but not all of them.  We think the remainder will either be found in the CA (Civil Affairs) supply room or the CA office.  It was too hot to keep looking at the time so we moved on to our next “mission” which was to secure meal vouchers to be used in the DFAC.  (DFAC = Dining Facility).  To me, it’s still a Mess Hall!

Prepare for Leta’s embarrassing moment #1!

Anthony and I drove over to the Finance Office so he could purchase a hand full of meal vouchers for use while we are here.  Since I’m a civilian I cannot be left unattended on Camp Bondsteel so he had to schlep me along.  We parked, got out of the vehicle, up the stairs of the Sea Hut and around to Finance.  Opened the door and happy to see no line.  There were a handful of personnel behind the little windows and Anthony said he wanted to buy 10 meal vouchers.  He was immediately told that they are only sold on (I don’t remember the exact days and times) Tuesday and Thursdays between (OK, I’m being sarcastic here) 0918 and 1427 hours.  WHAT?  You’ve got to be kidding me!  I didn’t open my mouth while we were in the office but I just could NOT believe what I was hearing.  Anthony thanked them and we turned to leave.

I opened the door and stepped out onto the porch of the Sea Hut and began running my mouth at warp speed making statements such as, “I cannot believe my tax dollars pay their salaries and they aren’t busy yet they cannot even sell us a meal voucher…..” and on and on and on.  I’m NOT proud of the way I responded to this situation.  I noticed out of my peripheral vision that there were a couple of Soldiers walking by, etc.  I also “sort of” noticed a single Soldier walking up the left set of steps to the Sea Hut.  Anthony was walking in front of me and had just begun to turn the corner to the right.  As the Soldier from the left made it to the top of the steps and turned towards me I immediately recognized his face and stopped my tirade in mid sentence.  I had never met this Soldier but there was NO DOUBT IN MY MIND who he was.  In a matter of less than a second so many things went through my mind from “I wonder if they can put civilians in the brig here” to “I wonder how long I’ll have to be in the brig?” to “why in the world is this Soldier without and entourage” to just thinking plane old “holy crap!”  Ladies and gentlemen – it was the Commanding General of Camp Bondsteel.  None other than Brigadier General Darren Owens himself.  I noticed Anthony continuing to slowly move AWAY from me and around the corner.  I guess at this point he was probably going to SWEAR he had NO IDEA who I was nor where I came from and I wouldn’t have blamed him AT ALL!  We’re still within about 2-3 seconds of this whole situation beginning.  I extended my hand to Brig Gen Owens.  He accepted and we shook hands.  I told him that I was Leta Carruth and what a pleasure it was to meet him.  He remarked that he remembered me sending him a letter and I responded that I had.  (I had sent him a letter telling about the Educational Summit and other projects PTP is working on as well as a “thanks” regarding the support of Civil Affairs).  He asked if there was a problem and I “sort of” mentioned we weren’t able to purchase vouchers for the DFAC but in a much nicer, calmer and quieter tone.  He answered with, “Well, guess you’ll be eating lunch at Burger King today.”  If that’s what you say sir then that’s what it’ll be!  (I, of course, did not say that to him but thought it).  Brig Gen Owens and I then exchanged brief comments about the Educational Summit and how I hoped his schedule would permit him to drop by.  He said he knew his staff was aware of it but had no idea whether or not they had been able to fit a visit in.  I told him again how nice it was to meet him, how much I appreciate him and all of the Soldiers who are serving in Kosovo then said good bye.  It was the longest 30 seconds of my life.

THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO D – I – E!

Anthony and I got in the vehicle and I asked for his cell phone.  I called LTC Holliday to confess my indiscretion in case he got a call about it.  Turns out he never did.  BUT, LTC Holliday, SSG Vowell, SFC Currier and MAJ Chelone all agreed to meet Anthony, Kristy, Dada and me at Burger King and we had one FINE lunch!

After we ordered lunch but before it was ready SSG Vowell told me that Joe and Myrna Flood were sitting outside at the Cappuccino Bar.  I’ve been wanting to meet both of them on my last 2 visits to Kosovo but it never worked out for one reason or another.  Joe works for OSCE and Myrna works for UNHCR.  SSG Vowell (Ed) and I went outside and he introduced us.  I immediately felt like I had known them for a lifetime.  We talked for a couple of minutes and they invite us out to their house near Gjilan/Gnjilane.  I told them we would love to come and would call them to make plans.  I can’t schedule ANYTHING without Anthony!  He’s “in charge” of me you know.

After lunch I walked to the TOC (Tactical Operations Center) with LTC Holliday.  I’ve been sitting on a plane and in a vehicle so much over the past 3 days that a walked sounded wonderful.  The purpose of going to the TOC was to go over the schedule for the next 2 ½ weeks and make sure that we have everything in order.  Plus a few opportunities have come up since we put the original schedule together via email.  Anthony drove around and we all met there.  LTC Holliday signed me in.  Anthony signed Kristy in.  That was amusing.  Even though she’s active in the Reserves and has served in Kosovo AND had her military ID she had to be signed in.  Oh well.

As we were getting organized to go over the schedule (we were pulling three different schedules together – LTC Holliday’s, Civil Affairs and PTP) LTC Perez walked in.  LTC Perez is the G-5 for Task Force Falcon.  I’d met him in December and again in April.  It was good to see him.  There was an amusing moment that took place just as he walked in but in order not to embarrass the LTC I’ll omit that information for now.  LTC Perez is about to go on leave for 2 weeks so it was nice to see him before he heads of for a much deserved visit in Texas with family and friends.

We got the schedule “finished”.  I say “finished” because the schedule is ALWAYS a moving target in Kosovo.  This time we have been, I think, smart enough by leaving a couple of days open.  Time will tell.

Anthony, Kristy, Dada and I left the TOC.  We went to the CA Office.  Every Saturday the CA team from Camp Bondsteel and Camp Monteith have a meeting to discuss what’s going on.  LTC Holliday invited Kristy and me to the meeting.  Since there are several new CA members here this time I was happy for both the opportunity to meet them and the chance to tell them I much I appreciate their work and their support.

I’d only briefly met LTC Holliday when I was here in April.  The day after I arrived he had to leave to return to the US because his father had emergency heart surgery.  His father is doing fine.  So, this was my first real opportunity to see him “in action” so to speak.  Now, I’m not by any stretch of the imagination an expert on any type of military anything.  BUT……………I was so honored to listen to the way LTC Holliday spoke to his troops and to watch the way the responded to him.  TOTAL and COMPLETE respect from both sides.  LTC Holliday tells it like it is for sure yet he allows the Soldiers to speak their minds to him.  It was a very moving moment for me.  I know that all of these men and women (MAJ Oxana Werbiansky) have served in Iraq and/or Afghanistan.  Several of them have served here in Kosovo before.  To listen to the exchange and the manner in which it was done was indescribable.  Yet another moment when I felt unworthy, proud, honored as well as sad that more Americans do not have this opportunity.  It would make SUCH a difference in the way many seem to view our military.

We eventually left Camp Bondsteel, grabbed some dinner and returned to the Ilazi’s house around 11:00 PM.

23 July 2006 – Sunday

Woke to another beautiful day after another night of LOUD music from the wedding parties in the neighborhood.  Since there is no air conditioning we sleep with the windows open.  Therefore, the noise level tends to be less than conducive for falling or staying asleep.  I brought ear plugs but if I wear them at night I do not hear the alarm clock in the morning.  Oh, yes, they are GOOD ear plugs.  I discovered them long ago for use on airplanes. 

No new mosquito bites this morning.  Before I crawled in to bed last night I sprayed myself down from head to toe.  Ah!!!!!!  I’ve only gotten 4 since I arrived this trip and I hope that will be the total when I leave.  I have no idea what these mosquitoes have in them but when they bit me I get knots on me wherever they bite that last for over a week and itch like I’ve never had a mosquito bite itch in my life.  Last summer I did not come prepared for the mosquitoes.  I went home with dozens of knots all over me.  I’m learning!

Duke is just gorgeous this morning.  I can’t see him from looking out of my bedroom window but if I crawl through the window, out on the ledge and around the corner to the right there he is!  Duke, for those of you who don’t know, is a mountain.  Not just ANY mountain, of course.  Duke has character.  I supposed he’s composed of granite much like the taller mountains “up north” near Montenegro.  Not really sure.  I do know that he stands proud and tall – that the areas towards his summit are carpeted in the most beautiful assortments of wildflowers (especially the fields of brilliant poppies) in the summer and with snow in the winter.  A ski “resort” is located on the slopes of Duke just above the village of Brezovicë/Brezovica.  Ski “resort” is a term used loosely.  While one can certainly ski there in the winters the “resort” factor would certainly be questioned by most Westerners.  The “resort” was constructed back during communist times.  The lodge is “functional” but certainly neither opulent nor lavish.  As a matter of fact the bathrooms have holes in the floor over which one must stand or squat in order to accomplish their mission.  Got it?

I’m not sure how many waterfalls and mountain streams fall around him but they are numerous, clean and beautiful.  OK, it is Kosovo after all, so some of the streams aren’t so clean down towards the bottom.  How do so few people generate and deposit so much garbage in public places?  Even in remote places?  A mystery.  One of the Civil Affairs teams, CATA 1, has a project named “Beautiful Kosovo” in which they are attempting to bring together a myriad of organizations to work with the Shar National Park authorities to clean up that national treasure.  It will be a monumental project but they are working very hard to do so.  The project is a result of them going for a hike in the park on one of their days off.  They were struck by the beauty of the area yet saddened and shocked by the mountains of garbage – particularly in the picnic areas and down stream.

So, I said good morning to Duke, acknowledged the chickens and rooster that were scratching and strutting in the yard next door and crawled back through the window to head for the shower.  Better hurry!  Electricity is on now – not sure how much longer it might be that way.  Maybe it’s just because I don’t live here on a permanent basis but it sure seems like the power “issue” this summer is much worse than it was last summer.

After Kristy and I had showered and had hot tea with the family we borrowed Mr. Beanie from Dani.  Mr. Beanie is his car.  I have no idea how old “he” is but he’s quite a quirky little guy.  The driver’s door cannot always be opened so, often, the driver has to crawl in from the passenger side.  I doubt the shocks are even there.  I know they don’t work.  The gear shift indicates he’s a five speed but he’s really only a 4 speed.  And, although we’ve gotten 6 or 7 adults in him on occasion I think we exceeded his weight limit by, at least, double.  None the less, he’s dependable these days. 

I cranked Mr. Beanie up, struggled to get him in reverse and off we went to Ben Af – a nearby grocery store.  We received a call this morning that we’re going to the Flood’s this afternoon.  Kristy and I decided to take some drinks and snacks with us.  Hence the trip to Ben Af.  They are putting in a new sewer pipeline along the side of the main street near the Ilazi house.  I’ve decided that in Kosovo construction simply means that things will be worse once the construction is complete.  I don’t know how in the world this sewer is an improvement.  In many areas the pipe seems to be much higher than in others.  How is the, well, “stuff” going to flow?  I suppose the positive outlook is that the “stuff” will be inside a concrete pipe and not running or standing on top of the ground.  Anyway, the street is a disaster.  There are pot holes so large I often worried that Mr. Beanie will be swallowed up.  Because the street is in such bad shape one also has to be cognizant of the traffic.  No one drives on their side of the road.  They drive on the “best side” of the road switching back and forth and darting here and there.  Add the all of the pedestrians walking IN the street and it’s a nightmare.  But, a nightmare that is “normal” here.

Since we’re going to be at Ben Af we’ll also pick up some basics for the Ilazis such as milk, juice, eggs, bread and cheese.  Of course we’ll also toss in some chips, pretzels, chocolate, cookies, etc.  The girls LOVE junk food and don’t often get the chance to eat it.  Since I don’t have to pay anything for room and board when I am at their home I try to keep them supplied while I’m there and leave a decent supply of food when I leave.

We made our way around the grocery store picking up what we needed and a few things we really didn’t need.  As we were approaching the check out area I noticed 2 American military personnel.  One was Army, the other Marine.  I got Kristy’s attention and motioned for her to “watch this.”  I walked by the 2 gentlemen and in my most southern accent said, “hey, how y’all doin’?”  Whiplash from one and a mouth that dropped open almost to the floor from the other.  The Marine looked at me and said, “I sure didn’t expect that!”  We all had a good laugh and exchanged a bit of conversation as we were checking out.  Naturally they wanted to know what we were doing in Kosovo so I gave them a very brief synopsis.

When we drove up to the house the family came pouring out and made unloading an easy task.  It was fun to watch the girls dive in to the bags.  Little things in life are so BIG in Kosovo.

Anthony, Ed and Dada arrived around 11:00 AM to pick us up for the drive to Gjilan/Gnjilane where the Floods live.  We didn’t have directions to their house.  Our “directions” were to drive to the OSCE office and one of the security guards would help us from there.  It’s about a 30 minutes drive from Ferizaj/Uroševac to the Eastern side of Gjilan/Gnjilane depending on traffic.  Traffic would be defined as motorized vehicles that could potentially be licensed in America, motorized vehicles that would NEVER be allowed to be licensed in America, people and numerous types of animals.  Today our only impediment was wedding convoys.  Driving through Gjilan/Gnjilane can take almost as long as getting there.  Since it was Sunday the traffic wasn’t so bad.  We chose to go through as opposed to around on the “ring road.”  There’s a story about the “ring road” but I’ll save that for another time.  It’s basically a by-pass.

We arrived at the OSCE office and SSG Vowell got out to talk to the guard.  The guard disappeared for a time then reappeared in a vehicle.  He motioned for us to follow him.  We did.  We drove for about 5 minutes turning here and there – up one road that seemed little more than a trail.  He motioned towards a home and kept on driving.  We made an assumption that we were there and, as it turns out – we were.

We all settled in on the patio.  It was a hot day so the guys in uniform moved their chairs to be positioned under the umbrella for shade.  Kristy and I chose to stay in the sun in hopes of getting a bit of a tan.  Myrna brought out nuts and chips as well as lemonade, iced tea and water.  Beer was offered.  I had brought wine along a couple of bottles of wine.  Joe opened the red and he and I each had a glass.  I’ve not learned much about the wine in that region but do know that, generally speaking, if it’s from Montenegro it’s not bad.

Joe and Myrna are just the most delightful couple.  The told so many stories about their lives, how they met and adventures they’ve experienced that I lost track.  I THINK I remember that they met in Alaska.  He’s from New England.  She’s from the West Coast – California I think.  She’s owned several different businesses and he’s been involved in politics.  They have one grown son who, just as Joe, served in the military.

Joe is in charge of the OSCE office in Gjilan/Gnjilane and Myrna works for UNHCR there.  They both told stories of some of the challenges of working in Kosovo – not so much the actual work itself but the way it is perceived by many of the locals on one side or the other.  I would love to spend DAYS with these two and hope to have the opportunity to visit with them often as I’m in and out of the region.

It got so hot in the sun that I switched from wine to iced tea.  Myrna actually had ice.  What a TREAT!!!  WE moved inside to continue visiting as the guys were dying in their ACUs.  OK, they weren’t dying but it was very unpleasant for them.  Despite the fact that there is no air conditioning it was still cooler inside.

My stomach started to growl.  We had arrived just after noon and, I suppose, we all figured we would go somewhere to eat.  Once we began to visit the subject of lunch never came up.  I looked at my watch and couldn’t believe that it was 1530 (3:30 PM).  I invited the Floods to join us for a late lunch/early dinner but they declined as Joe needed to go to the office and work a bit.  We thanked them for their hospitality, said our good byes, took a few photos and were on our way.  As we were walking down the side walk  they invited us to come back another time before I leave.  Oh, we’d LOVE to do that for sure!

Leta and the Floods

SSG Vowell suggested we go to lunch at a restaurant East of Gjilan/Gnjilane called Planet.  I thought there might have been something closer but he’s never steered me wrong before so……………let’s go.  It only took about 10 minutes or so to get to the restaurant since we didn’t have to drive through downtown Gjilan/Gnjilane.  What a lovely place!  Very open and airy.  Lots of nice flowers, fountains and water falls.  Good choice Ed! Good choice!  We ordered our meals and continued to visit and relax.  I don’t ever remember a day in Kosovo when I’ve actually just relaxed like I have today.  I do, however, remember NOT taking time to relax and being so tired and cranky that I couldn’t stand being around myself.  Fortunately in those cases I was wise enough to remove myself from the public.  I’m really trying to “pace myself” on this trip.  I’m not a youngster anymore.

On the drive back to Ferizaj/Uroševac we began to talk more about the events of the coming days.  Tomorrow we will drive to FYROM to fetch Dr. Anderson.  OK, OK, FYROM stands for Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.  Those of you who know me and those who have been reading these journals should know by now that if it’s related to history I’m not the person to ask.  Apparently there is an issue with Greece regarding calling FYROM versus just calling it Macedonia.  I’m not attempting to make light of that here.  I just don’t know the “story.”  I do know that I’ve been told it’s politically correct to refer to that country as FYROM.

The teenagers/early 20s crowd from Ferizaj/Uroševac decided to play futbol/soccer tonight.  It was VERY easy for me to decide NOT to play soccer despite their appeals and moans when I declined.   Instead I made plans to pick Dada up outside Gate 1 of Camp Bondsteel so that she and I could go to a coffee shop and visit for a while.   It was a pleasant night to sit outside so we did.  Visiting with Dada is something I enjoy very much and don’t get to do often enough.  As I’ve said over and over again she is the most amazing woman.  I’m often torn between intrigued and sad when she tells stories of growing up in and around Belgrade during communist rule and after the fall – standing in line for hours in hopes of receiving a single loaf of bread, no electricity, watching bombs fall all around her home, etc.    She is such an intelligent lady.  What a waste of talent her life has been and at no fault of her own – simply the fact that she grew up where she did when she did.  It often makes me angry and always makes my heart ache for her.

As we sat sipping on coffee and chatting I was surprised at the number of people who would walk by and recognize us.  Several stopped by to shake hands, say hello and to welcome me back. 

I took Dada back to Camp Bondsteel then went “home” to the Ilazis and to bed.  I was happy for the chance to live a “normal” day in Kosovo today.  Starting tomorrow we get down to business.  That, too, is exciting!

24 July 2006 – Monday

Last night was pretty typical – loud music and gun shots from weddings in the neighborhood until around 3:00 AM.  What wasn’t so “typical” is that a few of the gun shots were closer than I would have liked for them to be.  At one point I was sound asleep then suddenly I heard a blast of rapid succession gun shots that were way to close for comfort.  I didn’t get up to look out of the window but suspect they must have been fired from the courtyard just below my window.  What’s interesting about these gun shots is not so much that it is tradition to fire off guns as part of a wedding celebration but that NO CIVILIAN in Kosovo is allowed to own a gun!  There are reasons for that!  There is no 911 to call as a means to report the gun shots.  I wouldn’t have done so anyway since I knew their purpose.  Regardless, it’s a bit unnerving to be awakened from a deep sleep to that sound so close.

We did have power when we woke up this morning.  We were thankful for that.  It seems that apart from the power grid just being so darn old one of the issues this summer is that Kosovo is repaying neighboring countries such as Albania for power they borrowed during the winter. 

Anthony, Dada and Pavil (Macedonian interpreter) picked us up around 0830.  Pavil is an interesting man.  Very quite and soft spoken generally.  Yet, when he has something to say it’s either going to be profound our so funny and out of left field you almost hurt yourself laughing.  He’s also incredibly intelligent and knowledgeable.  I often hear people tease him about being former KGB.  Doubt that is true but – one never knows now does one?  I could see him in that role.

We hopped in the vehicle and drove to the municipal building for a meeting with Mr. Imeri and the Director of Education to discuss any final plans for the Educational Summit.  Dani went with us, of course.  The meeting went quite well.  It appears that everyone is very well prepared and extremely excited about the Summit.  So am I!  The manuals have all been dispersed and the administrators and teachers are reading through the materials in order to be better prepared for the course.  The Director of Education was all smiles this morning!  He is a very kind and soft spoken man.  When he walked in to Mr. Imeri’s office today, though, he had a noticeable bounce in his step and a smile as wide as his face!  He is so committed to the Summit as well as to doing whatever he can in order to bring a meaningful education to the students of his school system.  I continue to be amazed by these devoted people like him who do what they do and are paid approximately $200 to $225 per month for their work.  Amazed!

After we had finished our discussion about the Summit Mr. Imeri called in another gentleman from the municipality.  I do not know his name or his job position.  He was brought in because the municipality is allowing Kristy and me to borrow a car while we are here.  We had intended to rent a vehicle but are grateful to have this opportunity as a means to save over $1500.00 for rental fees and fuel.  Additionally it will allow us more mobility as well as keep us from having to depend on KFOR to provide transportation.  Anyway, the gentleman who came in is responsible for the municipal vehicles.  We exchanged greetings then he took our driver’s licenses to get the information from them.  In a few minutes he returned with the paperwork that verified that we are allowed to drive the vehicle as well as that it belongs to the municipality.

Since we needed to get on the road to Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia) we said our good byes to Mr. Imeri and the Director of Education and made our way down the 3 flights of stairs.  As we were moving down the stairs several people stopped to say hello and offered their hands in greeting.  A few wanted to chat about how things were going.  I recognized one face but really had no idea who any of the people were.  I suppose I need to work on that although Dani told me that several probably recognize us from TV interviews.

We made it outside and to the car.  It was an older model Audi sedan.  Dani and the man from the municipality talked for a couple of minutes.  Dani said that we are to return the vehicle each night.  I gave him one of my “looks” then said that could be a problem since many nights we probably won’t be back in the area until 2000 or later.  Dani acknowledged me and said something to the man.  I assured Dani that we would take great care of the vehicle and would return it on the date and time promised.  I also asked Dani to tell the man, again, how very appreciative we are that they have made this vehicle available to us.

Kristy got in and started up the vehicle, backed out and fell in behind Anthony in the KFOR vehicle.  Although Dr. Anderson’s flight won’t arrive until 1700 we need to get to Skopje early since Pavil has to go to some Macedonian government office.  KFOR got a request from a Serbian lady who is about to turn 18 and has no birth certificate.  She was born in FYROM but now lives in Kllokot.  She should already have had a birth certificate in order to be able to move freely around Kosovo and the remainder of Serbia but must have one when she turns 18.  KFOR got the paperwork from her and Pavil will go to the office to secure the birth certificate.  Since we have no idea how long this might take we are leaving early.

We drove through Ferizaj/Uroševac on our way to the road to Skopje.  Kristy and I began to laugh.  The air conditioner doesn’t work and the handle to roll the window down on the back right door fell off.  Oh well.  Mechanically all seems in order!  Character – the car has character!

When we got to the checkpoint on the Kosovo side of the border there was a bit of a line.  Pavil and Dada took all of our passports and the paperwork for the car up to the checkpoint office.  We had been told that we would have to purchase some sort of sticker for the vehicle in order to enter FYROM.  I hopped out of our car and jumped in with Anthony for a little cool air while we were waiting.  In a few minutes Pavil and Dada returned.  Pavil said that he had run in to a bit of a problem.  I asked “how much is this going to cost us?” and he laughed.  He told me that we would not need to purchase a sticker – the problem was that ‘they had heard about me at the border crossing and he had to convince them to let me through’.  Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha.  Pavil made a funny!  We all did get a nice chuckle out of that.  We made it to the checkpoint, showed our paperwork and were motioned through.  Drove through no man’s land to the FYROM check point.  Showed our documents and breezed through there. 

When we got to Skopje around noon.  We decided to grab something to eat before Pavil left for the government office since we had no idea how long he might be there.  We parked in a public parking lot and set off on a 10 minute walk to a restaurant Pavil recommended - Kaj Marsal restaurant.  About half way there I remembered that I had left my big bag in the floorboard of the car.  We didn’t lock the car because we weren’t sure we would be able to unlock it.  My bag had my camera, a copy of my passport and other things in it that I should NEVER have left behind.   A loud groan from the group.  Everyone was hungry and it was very hot out.  I said I’d go back alone and they could find a shady spot near the big square where we were and I’d catch up with them.  Anthony shifted into “protector mode.”  I assured him that I was old enough, wise enough and smart enough to be able to find my way back to the car and then to them.  OK!  I back tracked to the car and was relieved to find my bag still in the floor board and untouched.  Scurried off to catch up with the group.

Pavil is from the former Soviet Union but has lived in FYROM for years and knows his way around Skopje quite well.  What an experience Kaj Marsal was.  Actually, just being in Skopje is an experience.  Skopje is much more modern than any part of Kosovo – definitely more economically developed.  Anyway, this restaurant is decorated with murals of Tito as well as memorabilia from his reign.  The menu held selections with names “honoring” different countries and leaders who were in power at the same time as Tito.  Admittedly the menu also offered selections of food that didn’t even begin to sound interesting to me – internal organs, etc.  There were many items on the menu with Greek origins and spins.  That’s where I went!  I like to play it safe in situations like this.

 Anthony, Dada, Leta, Pavil and Kristy at restaurant in Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia)

After lunch we took a few photos then while Pavil set off to accomplish his task the remainder of us went in search of an internet café.  Kristy and I had not been able to check email in a few days and thought that would be a good idea.  We found an internet café in a mall near the Vardar River and made ourselves at home.  Anthony and Dada waited outside on a bench in the atrium.  Once we were finished we made our way out of the mall to a collection of outdoor markets, restaurants, coffee shops and gelato stands that lined the river.  We had agreed to meet Pavil there.  We each ordered gelato and drinks and settled in for “as long as it took.”   We hadn’t even finished our gelato when Pavil walked up.  Seems the person he needed to see is not in the office today and no one else could/would assist. 

We finished our gelato and made our way back to the vehicles then on to the airport.  The airport is about 20 km outside of town so it took about 30 minutes to get there.  OK, maybe not 30 minutes since part of the trip is like the German autobahn and allows one to drive 140 km/hr.  That was a real thrill for Anthony.  I wasn’t in the vehicle with him but once we got to the airport he was talking about it.  One certainly cannot drive that fast in Kosovo and Anthony is from New Jersey and speeds like crazy.  I suppose it was therapy for him.

We really only had about a 45 minute wait once we got to the airport.  We went inside and got something to drink and sat around chatting.  At one point I got up to take a look at the arrivals information.  I didn’t see Dr. Anderson’s flight listed.  I went over to the information desk and inquired about the flight.  The lady did speak English which was nice but her information seemed a bit “incorrect.”  She said the flight was not coming in today.  I went over to the kiosk for Cirrus Airlines.  It was closed.  Hmmmmm.  Not a good sign.  I went back to the information desk to ask for a phone number for Cirrus and got one.  Then I returned to the group to tell them things didn’t seem “right.”  Little did we know at this point but……………… things were WAY wrong!

Cirrus Airlines is a code share partner with Lufthansa.  Lufthansa is a reputable airline, right?  Well………………I’m still not going to doubt that Lufthansa is a reputable airline but they should NEVER have partnered with Cirrus and we should NEVER have booked a ticket on Cirrus.

Here’s as close as I can come to an abridged version of a LONG story:

• All of the phone numbers we got from the Information Desk, printed itinerary I had with me and off of the window of the Cirrus Kiosk were either not working or in countries in for which we had no country code to call nor could we find anyone who could assist us in getting them

• None of the people at the airport I talked to was able to assist us.

• We eventually found out that Cirrus Airlines was not operating due to the employees walking off the job.  Seems the airline is owned by some man and the employees were not happy with him.

• Anthony left the airport to go to some military installation nearby to see if he could go on-line and get information or phone numbers

• Pavil used his cell phone to call information for Lufthansa but the numbers he got from information would either not go through or if they did go through no one would answer.

• I called back to the United States – on a calling card – to some friends of mine in the airline business.  They could not “find” Dr. Anderson AT ALL but did find that his original flight from Chicago to Frankfurt had been cancelled.  OK, what do we do now?  Dr. Anderson had NO WAY of contacting us if he got to Skopje and we weren’t there.  I had promised him I would be waiting when he arrived.

• At around 1900 hours Dada got up off of a bench were we had been sitting outside and went in to the airport.  About a half hour later she came out of the airport asking for information.  I handed her the itinerary.  She had found an employee of Macedonian Airlines, Sasha, who was working to find Dr. Anderson.  Sasha turned out to be our hero and savior in this circus.

• I finally got through to Lufthansa and they were no help AT ALL!

• Around 2100 hours Sasha announced that Dr. Anderson had made it as far as Frankfurt and his (Sasha’s) suspicion was that Dr. Anderson had been rerouted from Frankfurt to Vienna to Belgrade to Skopje and would be arriving around 2300 hours. Holy Cow!

• Dada called her friend Natalija in Belgrade and had her go to the airport there to find out information. 

• We settled in at the coffee shop at the airport.  Thankfully coffee there is not nearly as expensive as it is here in the US.  I was, however, prepared to spend all the money I had on coffee that night.

At one point Sasha disappeared and returned with a lanyard that held a pouch.  These are used for unaccompanied children to wear with their documents, etc. when they fly.  He handed it to Anthony.  Inside was a toy gun that made the loudest screeching and whining noise when you pulled the trigger.  KFOR is not allowed to carry their weapons in FYROM so Anthony had been talking about how he felt partially dressed without his weapon.  We all got a HUGE laugh out of that. 

 Leta and Sasha at the Skopje airport – notice there’s hardly anyone there because it’s so late at night.

Close to 2300 Sasha went to check on the flight.  It was in range and due to land in minutes.  We paid our bill and made our way outside to the arrivals door.  You meet arrivals outside at this airport.  Sasha went back behind passport control and baggage claim to see if he could find Dr. Anderson.  I had described him.  Sure enough he was there but without the gentleman who was supposed to be traveling with him.  Uh oh!  Well, at least Dr. Anderson is here!

Dr. Anderson finally came out pulling he little computer bag.  It was so good to see him!  Hugs and introductions all around.  We thanks Sasha profusely and gave him a little gift for all of his help and support.  He was fantastic!

We hopped in the vehicles and started back to Ferizaj/Uroševac.  Dr. Anderson had his first experience with the 2 border checkpoints and no man’s land.  When we got to Ferizaj/Uroševac is was 0100 on 25 July.  I now had concerns about whether or not there would be anyone available at the hotel to check him in.  We made a quick stop at the Ilazi house to pick up a t shirt, extra toothbrush and toothpaste, etc. for Dr. Anderson.  We picked up Dani and rushed off to the hotel.  They were waiting for us.  We got Dr. Anderson checked in and up to his room and we left. 

Hit the bed to the tunes of wedding music around 0200 with no alarm set for morning!

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

25 July 2006 – Tuesday

We got up kinda slow this morning.  (Refer to 24 July 2006 posting for details).  We showered, had hot tea and waited for Anthony to come pick us up.  Then we drove to the hotel and picked up Dr. Anderson.  He said he had slept well and that the hotel staff waited on him hand and foot. 

The power was off at the hotel last night (well, this morning) when we stopped in to get him registered.  Apparently the generators ran all night.  The owners and staff were concerned that might have kept Dr. Anderson from sleeping but it didn’t.  He explained that he lives next to a railroad track at home and is used to the trains coming and going all night without disruption of his sleep.  Generators didn’t bother him at all.

We had three primary missions today:

• Take Dr. Anderson to the site of the Educational Summit so he could familiarize himself with the venue and approve/disapprove of anything

• Find Dr. Anderson’s luggage

• Buy Dr. Anderson clothes

We drove the 5 kilometers from downtown Ferizaj/Uroševac to Ujevara (means waterfall) where the summit will be held.  I warned Dr. Anderson on the way NOT to get used to seeing buildings like the one in which the summit was being held.  It is BRAND NEW and was built as a wedding hall.  It actually has working indoor plumbing and, when there is power, it has air conditioning.  When there is no power everything runs off of generators but the generators aren’t hefty enough to power the a/c.  We are so fortunate that KFOR and INPO found this site for us and negotiated the deal that they negotiated.  For an agreed per person price we get the facility, soft drinks and juice all day and lunch.  Almost like being at home!  

Dr. Anderson was more than pleased with the venue and gave it a big thumbs up.  We then decided to have lunch at the facility in an outdoor covered pavilion.  This particular restaurant doesn’t have pictures or English on their menu.  Dani attempted to translate the menu for Dr. Anderson.  It was a bit comical!  Since I’ve “been there” before I understood his frustration.  Finally Dr. Anderson just gave in and asked if they had chicken?  Dani said they did.  Dr. Anderson told Dani to just order him chicken!  We all laughed.

As we were waiting for our food the owners of the venue came over to meet us and chat.  Ujevara is owned by 2 brothers.  The older brother speaks no English.  The younger brother speaks perfect English.  They are both delightful men and it was a pleasure to get to know them better.  I hope that their investment in this venue pays off in the end.  They, obviously, have poured a lot of money into the development and building.

After lunch we drove to Ben Af so that Dr. Anderson could find some clothes to wear until his luggage arrives.  Personally, I think he’s seen the very last of that luggage.  Dada has been trying to call all day to see if it has been located.  She cannot get anyone to answer the phone number Dr. Anderson was given last night when he made the claim in Skopje.

We dropped Dr. Anderson off with Dani then Anthony, Dada and I went to Camp Bondsteel so that I could have access to a phone and attempt to find the luggage.  I called a friend of mine who works in the airline business and gave her the baggage claim number.  In just a few minutes she confirmed that the claim is, in fact, in the international lost baggage system but there are no notes what-so-ever to tell where it was last seen.

Anthony made a couple of stops on Camp Bondsteel then we headed back out to Ferizaj/Uroševac to rendezvous with Kristy, Dr. Anderson, Dani, etc and grab some dinner.  We had all decided to make it an early night since tomorrow is the first day of the Summit and we have to be there early and prepared for the unexpected just “in case.”

26 July 2006 – Wednesday

I woke up early, early, early this morning – actually before the chickens and the rooster even started their normal morning chat.  I was tempted to lean out of the window and let loose with a big rooster”ish” crow but chose not to in deference to the neighbors.  I am so VERY excited about getting the multi ethnic Educational Summit under way.  We have worked very hard on this – ALL of us.  KFOR, INPO, PTP, Dr. Anderson, the local municipality, the participants from various villages that will be attending.  It is an exciting day here.

Kristy and I hopped in the car we were borrowing from the municipality and drove to the hotel Bolero to fetch Dr. Anderson and drive him to Ujevara.  Kristy parked the car on the street and I hopped out to walk down the tiny little alley way to the hotel.  Dr. Anderson was waiting in the lobby when I walked in the open door.   He was smiling from ear to ear and ready to go.

Five minutes later we pulled into the parking area (basically a grassy field) for Ujevara.  There were only a couple of vehicles there but we had planned to arrive early in order to get set up and be waiting when the participants began to arrive.  Anthony and Dada weren’t there yet but they had to go to Kllokot/Klokot to pick up Vladin, the other Serbian interpreter.  SFC Bumann wasn’t there yet either but he had to go to Gracanica to pick up the group of teachers from the school there.  Since they are Serbian, Roma, Ashkali it isn’t always so safe for them to travel freely.  That is another whole story.  Regardless, I knew they would all be arriving soon.

The young adults from INPO began arriving.  I was SO proud of them!  They were all dressed nicely and were smiling and eager to do anything that needed to be done.  We all made our way to the meeting room/wedding hall.  I was a bit taken by the décor but, then again, it is a wedding hall!  We began setting up the tables for registration, had some macchiato and other coffees brought to us and then the waiting began.  Registration was supposed to begin at 0830.  I know!  I know!  I know!  I’m in the Balkans.  I have to learn to operate on Balkan time. 

Anthony, Dada, SFC Bumann (Terry) and their charges all arrived just before 0830.  I met Vladin and all of the participants from Gracanica.  Anthony and I just looked at each other like, “where is everyone?”  Around 0900 a handful began to trickle in.  We had them sign in and made their name tags.  I was beginning to get VERY nervous!  It is not uncommon in this area for people to think ideas such as the Educational Summit are a GRAND IDEA then not show up for the actual event.  The Director of Education was there, Mr. Imeri was there.  But…………the participants just weren’t there.  I thought I was going to die!

Around 0930 it was as if the flood gates had opened.  We had people EVERYWHERE.  Keep in mind the event was scheduled to begin at 0900.  Gotta love Kosovo!

 Participants waiting in line to register for the Educational Summit

We actually had 123 invited participants register.  I was so happy.  Not for me.  Not for PTP.  I was excited for the children and for the people of Kosovo.

Around 1000 hours we were finally able to get everyone seated and begin the welcome remarks which were to be made by the Director of Education for the municipality of Ferizaj/Uroševac, the Deputy Municipal President of Ferizaj/Uroševac and me.  After we concluded that part Dr. Anderson was introduced and went right to work.

  Dr. Anderson addressing the Educational Summit participants Day 1

L to R – Mr. Imeri (DMP), Director of Education, Dr. Anderson and Dani (interpreter)

I had briefed Dr. Anderson about the need to pause between his statements because one set of interpreters has to translate from English to Albanian and the other from either Albanian or English to Serbian.  It took about a half an hour for all of that to get hashed out so that everyone was getting all of the information.  Once Dr. Anderson was up and running SGT Pelliccio (Anthony), SFC Bumann (Terry), Kristy (SGT Van Lane) and I all stepped outside to find a quiet place and some coffee.  Kristy, while a SGT in the Army Reserves, is here as a civilian with me so she is not in uniform.  We discussed a few small items that need to be tweaked but, otherwise, we were all very happy with the way in which things are running at this point. 

During the lunch break Dada made a few calls in an attempt to find Dr. Anderson’s luggage.  She was able to speak with someone but the luggage had still not been found.  She’ll keep trying.

After lunch and once the Summit was in session again Anthony and I dashed out to Camp Bondsteel.  Anthony needed to see LTC Holliday and I wanted to make a few calls to try and find the luggage.  I was not successful.  LTC Holliday inquired as to how things were going at the Summit and we briefed him.  He cautioned me not to expect everyone to continue to attend as the Summit continues by giving me examples of recent events they have held at the request of several local groups.  It seems that generally attendance falls by 50% from day 1 to day 2 then continues to fall after that.  Oh, sir, PLEASE don’t tell me that!

At 1600 hours I had a meeting at Ujevara with MAJ Werbiansky and SSG Mitchell.  They, too, are part of the Civil Affairs team in Kosovo right now and wanted to discuss some of the projects they are interested in or are trying to work on in their sector.  We had been chatting for about a half an hour when I got a phone call from Anthony.  Dr. Anderson’s luggage was waiting for him at the airport in Skopje.  I excused myself from my meeting.  We found Dr. Anderson – who was finished for the day – and we (Anthony, Dada, Dr. Anderson and I) all set off for Skopje.  Dada doesn’t speak Macedonia but enough people there speak Serbian that we figured she’d be just fine for our interpreter.  Besides, we didn’t really have time to stop at Camp Bondsteel and find a Serbian interpreter – the luggage guy was only going to be available until 2000 hours.

We stopped at a corner market to pick up snacks (which turned out to be our dinner).  Anthony got a loaf of bread much like a French baguette.   He stuck it between his legs and broke pieces off to eat as he drove.  Dada and I were laughing so hard we couldn’t eat or drink anything for several miles.  He ate the WHOLE loaf!  He is, of course, a growing young man!

As we made our way south Dr. Anderson and I were chatting about the day.  He was more than thrilled about how it went.  He said that the group was very vocal about their needs and expressed them in a very professional manner.  INPO was above any expectations he may have had with respect to assisting him in keeping everyone on track and with their interpreting abilities.  He has great respect and admiration for the young men and women of INPO.  He said that he had met with the members of INPO right after the session was over to discuss the written information that had been handed in by the participants.  INPO had taken the documents with them so that they could interpret them overnight and have the information ready for Dr. Anderson in the morning. 

We breezed through the 2 border checkpoints (that’s another whole story for another time – maybe) and we made it to the airport in good time.  I had to laugh!  Dr. Anderson was seated in the front passenger seat for the trip.  Part of the ride to Skopje is through mountainous terrain with tunnels, sharp drop offs with no guard rails, etc.  He asked that he not be seated in the front anymore!

When we arrived at the airport we went straight to the baggage area.  Dr. Anderson spotted his bag.  He signed for it, we loaded up and back to Ferizaj/Uroševac we went.  We dropped Dr. Anderson at Bolero then Anthony, Dada and I went to the Ilazis.  They came in for hot tea and a short visit.

We made it another early evening and I was happy for that.

27 July 2006 – Thursday

Day 2 of the multi ethnic Educational Summit.

Kristy and I picked Dr. Anderson up at Bolero and drove straight to Ujevara.  We arrived around 0830 hours.  There were a few cars in the parking area.  SFC Bumann had already arrived with the group from Balkan Sun Flowers in Gracanica and they were having coffee.  SGT Pelliccio, Dada and Vladin pulled up as we were unloading Dr. Anderson’s things from the car.  Aside from them I didn’t see anyone else there.  Uh oh!  PLEEEEEEASE do not let LTC Holliday’s remarks of yesterday come true – about the fact that, often, attendance dwindles each day!

Balkan Sun Flower’s school is a whole story in itself.  They have started a school in Gracanica for children who either do not have an opportunity to go to school or whose parents just do not think it is necessary.  From what I understand many of the children who attend are Roma/Ashkali.  The parents do not feel it necessary for girls to get an education and really do not worry about whether the boys do or not.  Balkan Sun Flowers is a non profit organization doing great work thoughout the Balkan Region.  The Administrator of the school is a volunteer which means she gets NO salary AT ALL but gets some expenses reimbursed.  She currently shares a room with a local family in their home.  The remainder of the teachers at the school receive 60 Euros per month for teaching.  Totally unbelievable to me the dedication of these men and women.

We all grabbed coffee – OK, we didn’t actually “grab” it.  You cannot get “to go” coffee in Kosovo.  If you want coffee you must sit down, order it and drink it from a real cup.  Being the high energy American that I am, I sit down and order it but when it comes I pick it up and take it with me to where ever I need to go – which is what I did this morning.  I ordered it at the open air pavilion then grabbed it and ran off to the meeting hall.  When I entered there were a few of the INPO members there but no participants.  I got a knot in my stomach.

After checking on a few items and finding a spot to store my bag I returned back to the open air pavilion.  A handful of the participants had begun to trickle in, sit down and order coffee.  I joined Dr. Anderson, SFC Bumann, SGT Pelliccio, Dada, Kristy and some of the INPO members and ordered a DOUBLE macchiato.  I think I’m going to need the fortification today.

Dr. Anderson leaned over to show me a packet of information that INPO had put together last night.  Not only did they translate all of the materials that had been filled out by the participants in the exercises – they had created charts and graphs of the results.  Dr. Anderson was thrilled beyond words.  It turns out that INPO was at their office until around 0300 hours.  They said they would have been finished sooner but the power went off for several hours and that kept them from being able to use their computers to complete the graphs and charts.  Those “kids” are amazing.  I wish we could get them a generator.  So many days and nights they sit unable to work due to a lack of power. 

A little after 0900 hours I stood up and announced that it was time to move in to the meeting hall and begin the session.  Slowly people began to get up and move in that direction.  Ugh!  This is just not going well.  I was tempted to get behind them and “shoo” them towards the hall but thought better of it.  Eventually they all got up and ambled to the hall.  As the last person went in the door I looked back and could NOT believe it! There was a steady stream of participants coming up the walk way to the hall!  Hurray!  Leta – you ARE in Kosovo.  NOTHING happens on time!  NOTHING! 

I held the door for everyone to enter and greeted them as they did so.  What a relief!  As a matter of fact it seems that “word” has gotten out about the Summit and we had a few people show up who were not on the “list” and wanted to attend.  It was difficult to tell them they would not be able to do so but I had to.  We didn’t have materials for them plus Dr. Anderson has his hands full with the 125 already in the group.  I think the translation back and forth between 3 languages is a bit more than he anticipated.  But, all is going well and he is pleased.

 Group from Balkan Sun Flower in Gracanica

Around 0930 hours SGT Pelliccio (Anthony) and I left the venue to meet up with LTC Holliday, SSG Vowell and Cass (Albanian interpreter).  I had called the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology the day before and requested a meeting with them.  They had agreed to meet with us at 1030 hours but said they could only give us 15 minutes.  We’ll take it!  I had intended to call them sooner but never did.  I was thrilled that they were able to “work us in” at the last minute.

We met the other vehicle at a gas station in Ferizaj/Uroševac close to the main highway towards Prishtinë/Priština.  They were already there and were having coffee.  In Kosovo so many of the gas stations have little cafes that serve coffee.  I had heard about Cass before but had never met him.  When I was introduced and he spoke I laughed out loud!  Cass is from Kosovo and has the most authentic Texas drawl I’ve ever heard.  The story I was told long before meeting Cass is that he learned to speak English back in 1999-2000 from a group of Texas Soldiers who were deployed to Kosovo.  He is hysterical! 

We loaded up in the vehicles and drove to Prishtinë/Priština.  Cass knew how to get to the Ministry so we drove right there.  Parking was a bit of an issue but I’m constantly amazed at how the Soldiers can “make” legal parking spaces!  A gentleman was walking out of the door and Cass stopped him to tell him who we were looking for.  He asked us to wait and he went in the building and returned with a gentleman who invited us in.  We followed him up three stories and were ushered into a lobby area where we were asked to wait.  Mr. Bekim Koshani, the Chief of Staff, came out to greet us.  He asked us to follow him up another set up stairs to a large conference room.  Cass made all of the introductions and then we discovered that Mr. Koshani spoke perfect English so Cass simply sat back and only helped out if we got stuck on a word or meaning.

I told Mr. Koshani we were there for four reasons:

1. To tell him about the Educational Summit and invite him to attend if he is interested and if he has time.  Additionally to fill him in on Dr. Anderson’s plans

2. To find out the educational standards and guidelines for the elementary and secondary schools in Kosovo

3. To get a letter from his Ministry stating that when we ship educational goods/materials to Kosovo they will not be taxed upon entry (25% to 35%)

4. To discuss, per Dr. Anderson’s request, the possibility of setting up an exchange/partnership between the University of Prishtinë/Priština and a major university system in the USA to assist the University of Prishtinë/Priština to regain its accreditation. 

Mr, Koshani excused himself for a moment.  When he returned he brought a gentleman named Arben (Ben) Isufi with him.  He is the Assistant to the Director of the Ministry.  We were thrilled at their interest.

After about an hour of discussion, exchange of information and questions we were invited to go around the corner for coffee where we continued the discussion but in a more difficult environment – the power was off and all we could really hear were generators.  How darn frustrating!  Just a few miles to the west the KEC power plant is spewing tons of “stuff” into the air yet there is no power.  Someone please help me figure this out!

Mr. Koshani and Mr. Isufi were very kind and insightful.  We left the meeting with a lot of good information and an agreement to continue dialogue and working towards necessary goals within both the elementary and secondary school system as well as the University.  One note of information that really confirmed that things are on the right track – I asked Mr. Koshani to list the top five “wishes” as far as the Ministry was concerned for the elementary and secondary schools.  I was please that his top five matched those that the teachers and administrators had given to Dr. Anderson in one of the exercises.  They were not in the same order but, none the less, were the same five items.

Once we got back to the vehicles we decided to split up.  LTC Holliday needed to go to KFOR Main for some reason and Anthony and I wanted to stop by US AID.  I had been trying to touch base with Mr. Peter Duffy since arriving in Kosovo.  He is the interim director of US AID and we had exchanged emails prior to my arrival.  So, we didn’t actually “split up” because the US AID office and KFOR Main are located adjacent to each other.  LTC Holliday took the lead and got us through several checkpoints – VERY secure area and understandably so.  Once he got us to US AID he waved and drove off.  Turns out we weren’t REALLY there yet.  A nice man hopped in the vehicle with us to show us how to get to our final destination.  We drove up a hill and stopped at another checkpoint.  He got out to clear us.  The gate opened and we drove through.  The gate closed behind us but there was, yet another, barrier in front of us.  Once the gate to the rear closed the barrier in front of us opened.  WOW!  I’ve never experienced anything like this before.  He hopped back in the vehicle and we continued on up the hill.  KFOR Main was to our left – enrobed in razor wire and dotted with security towers.  To our right was a fabulous view of Prishtinë/Priština.  Along the way to our right we would see official buildings interspersed with fields filled with standing shocks of hay.  What an intriguing area.

Our escort motioned for Anthony to pull in to a drive that was blocked with yet another gate.  He, again, hopped out of the vehicle to clear us.  Another man came out from the guard shack and wiped the vehicle down with a cloth that we found was being used to check for explosive residue.  Holy cow!  I probably don’t even want/need to know why this is necessary even in a military vehicle!  We passed the test and the gate was opened and we drove in to the US AID compound and parked.

We followed our escort around the building and into the lobby area.  A man behind glass asked for our IDs and we presented them.  I told him we did not have an appointment but wanted to see if it was convenient for Mr. Duffy to see us.  In a few minutes he motioned for me to pick up a telephone to the left of the glass enclosure.  Mr. Duffy was on the line.  He was not in the building at the time.  We chatted for a minute and made an appointment for tomorrow afternoon.

The three of us hopped back in the vehicle and back tracked through the gates and checkpoints to where we had picked up the escort.  We dropped him off and continued down the hill to the main road and made a right.  We were both hungry and, as luck would have it, one of our favorite restaurants (OK, the ONLY restaurant I have eaten in in Prishtinë/Priština) was just on our right.  We pulled in and grabbed something to eat before driving back to Ferizaj/Uroševac.

On our way back to Ferizaj/Uroševac we noticed a larger than normal presence of helicopters in the air.  Before long we met a convoy of German’s in some type of armored “vehicles” that looked like tanks to me but I’ve learned that vehicles that look like tanks aren’t necessarily tanks.  It’s all really very confusing to me!  As we entered the outskirts of Ferizaj/Uroševac we saw Bradley vehicles (yep, look like tanks to me but aren’t) with Soldiers fully geared in battle rattle at checkpoints.  I’ve learned better than to ask – if I need to know anything the Soldiers will tell me.  For those of you who know me well this just doesn’t seem to “add up”, right?  Leta not asking questions is equivalent to night time with no darkness – DOESN’T happen.  Well, when it comes to being in the company of our military I respect that they have information I don’t and that’s just the way it is!  I suspect with the status talks going on in Vienna (and not going so well) this is probably an exercise OR a way to show those who need to know (and, luckily there aren’t many) that the military IS there so don’t try anything stupid!

We went straight to Camp Bondsteel as Anthony needed to take care of a few things there.  The guys with Force Protection at the front gate told me I need to get my own ID so they don’t have to check me in all the time.  We laughed.  If only they knew how hard we have tried to get me an ID.  Just not going to happen.  So, we take a few minutes each time I come and go to get that lovely red badge for me to wear around my neck.  No big deal.  And, I get the chance to say “hello.”

We stopped in at the TOC for Anthony to do what he needed to do then left to go back to Ujevara so that Anthony could pick up Dada and Vladin and take Vladin back to Kllokot/Klokot.  As we pulled up to the gate for me to get out of the vehicle and swap my badge for my ID the guard came out of the guard shack with my ID and we swapped at the vehicle.  Now how nice was that?  You don’t suppose it had ANYTHING to do with the home made chocolate chip cookies they got do you?

Mrs. Ilazi had invited all of us to dinner tonight.  She had the most beautiful salad platters of tomatoes and cucumbers, cheese stuffed bread and stuffed peppers that were FANTASTIC!  We all had a great time relaxing and talking about the Educational Summit as well as the meeting at the Ministry.

After dinner Kristy and I drove to an internet café to check our email then I went to bed.

28 July 2006 – Friday

Day 3 of the multi ethnic Educational Summit. 

So far we’ve had an average of 120 each day.  Hurray!  LTC Holliday is both surprised and pleased.  We are all pleased – not just that they are attending but that everyone is participating on a very high level.  Dr. Anderson says it’s been years since he’s had a group like this in the US.  Everyone stays focused, asked good questions, contributes great information and seems to be committed to both getting everything out of this summit as well as using the information to share with fellow teachers once school starts.  Yippee!  That’s exactly what we had hoped for!

INPO was up until the wee hours of the morning translating the information from the participants for Dr. Anderson.  They have revised and/or added new graphs as the information dictated.  Dr. Anderson is beside himself that they are not only able to accomplish this each night but are so eager and willing.  The bond that has formed between Dr. Anderson and the members of INPO is very personal and strong and will be lasting.  Each day after the summit concludes they all huddle up in a corner of the hall to discuss the day and share ideas.  Dr. Anderson gives them direction as to what he needs to have out of the information they are translating for him.  It always makes me smile and feel all warm inside to see them together and the way they interact!

We had 119 participants come today.  That’s still an admirable figure considering that 125 have been invited AND the fact that it’s both the wedding season as well as vacation time in the region.  I didn’t know that when we scheduled the dates or we would have scheduled differently.  Lesson learned.  However, it so refreshing to realize that this is more important to the educators than their vacation time.  Yet, on the other hand I have to wonder how/where they would go on vacations anyway?

The purpose of this educational summit if for Dr. Anderson to extract data as to basic needs in the school system.  He has the participants working through a series of exercises in order to determine what they have both in physical materials as well as in professional development.  Once he gets the information he will return to the United States and work with a major University’s education department I order to determine the steps that need to be taken and in what order.  It was important for us to get the information from the Ministry of Education yesterday in order for Dr. Anderson and the University to be able to tailor this process to the standards already set by the Ministry here.  There was never any intention of coming here to make this a copy of an American school system.  However, Dr. Anderson will definitely offer advice when he deems it important to the process.

Because Anthony and I had to run back up to Prishtinë/Priština today to meet with Peter Duffy of US AID I had asked LTC Holliday if he could supply another Soldier or two to provide security at the venue.  Since Anthony had volunteered to be the CA KFOR representative for this event security was never an issue as long as he was there.  However, a few of the participants made it clear to us that they wanted security at all times since this is a multi ethnic event.  And, with the status talks on-going in Vienna right now there are a few tense moments/issues – none that eep me from roaming around when and where I want to but I don’t have to worry about being Albanian in a Serbian area and vice versa.  Too bad they do. 

LTC Holliday was kind enough to get CATA-3 to volunteer to help us out.  They arrived in plenty of time for us to make it to Prishtinë/Priština for our meeting.  The Civil Affairs group in Kosovo right now is divided up into three teams, CATA-1, CATA-2 and CATA-3.  Each team has its own area that it covers.  CATA-3 has the area in which Ferizaj/Uroševac is located.  I really appreciated them for helping us out with this.  The team is lead by Maj. Oxana Werbiansky.  Maj W is an amazing woman.  I’ve enjoyed getting to chat with her and get to know her a little better.  She has great ideas and so much energy!

Anthony and I drove up to the checkpoint at which we had picked up our “escort” yesterday.  The same guy was supposed to have been there waiting for us but wasn’t.  Anthony talked to the guy at the gate and we proceeded on by ourselves – back through the maze of checkpoints and gates.  When we got to the final gate at the US AID office the guard came out and swiped down the vehicle to check for explosive residue just as he had the day before.  Anthony and I sat there waiting, waiting, waiting.  I began to wonder if something was going on but wasn’t worried.  In a few minutes the guard came back out and swiped again.  We continued to sit there chatting and waiting.  The guard came back out and commented that, perhaps, there was something wrong with the calibration on his machine as we were checking positive for explosive residue.  Interesting – same vehicle we were in yesterday.  Oh, well.  Poor guy had to get down on the ground on his back and wiggle under the vehicle to check for bombs.  Oh Anthony – have you been with this vehicle at all times? I’m wondering.  Anthony is VERY diligent about the safety of his vehicle so I wasn’t really concerned.  Anyway, we passed the inspection, the gate was raised and we drove in and parked.

We got checked in and Mr. Duffy came to greet us.  He took us to a conference room.  Along the way he introduced us to Ms. Arijeta Dushi who is the Budget Director.  She excused herself explaining that she was sorry not to be able to meet with us but had several projects she needed to work on.  We completely understood.  We were thrilled just to have the opportunity to meet with Mr. Duffy.

We had a great meeting with Mr. Duffy.  He was very easy to talk with and, as it turned out, we had a lot of ideas and projects in which we are all interested – KFOR, PTP and US AID.  Hurray!  Since LTC Holliday had not been able to join us for this meeting and I really wanted the two of them to meet, I invited Mr. Duffy (OK, by now he’s Peter) to join us at Camp Bondsteel on Sunday for a cook out that we’re having. 

About half way through the meeting Ms. Dushi came in the room to join us.  She said she was interested in learning what we had to say.  The four of us had a great exchange.  After about an hour Peter needed to move on to another meeting so he and Ms. Dushi walked us to the parking lot.  We were saying good byes and hugging when Ms. Dushi asked if we would like to join her for coffee.  Of course!  Peter excused himself and I thanked him for his time and told him we hoped to see him on Sunday then the three of us walked around to an open air area to have coffee.  Ms. Dushi told Anthony about a close friend of hers who works for Mr. Fernandez at Camp Bondsteel.  Mr. Fernandez is the Political Advisor to KFOR at Camp Bondsteel.  She said she would call her friend, whose name Anthony recognized, as make sure the 2 of them connected.  Additionally she mentioned that she is from Ferizaj/Uroševac and that her mother is a teacher there.  We chatted a bit more about the educational summit and other educational issues.  Ms Dushi was a very nice lady and we appreciated her time and insight.

On the drive back to Ferizaj/Uroševac I noticed the Serbian area (sorry I don’t remember the name of the village/settlement) where KFOR (not sure which country) has begun to clean up the remnants of the homes and other buildings that were either bombed or burned during the latest war that ended in 1999.  This particular area which is south of Prishtinë/Priština, east of Route Hawk and north east of Ljipan has always given me chills.  A whole village with nothing left but skeletons of buildings.  While I realize I could never imagine what it must have been like living there at the time I always have images of people running and weeping and in absolute fear when I gaze across the landscape there.  I also do not understand why there are so many areas like this across Kosovo that continue to stand as reminders of what everyone is working to put behind them.  How is it possible to ask everyone to get along, to work together, to “love their neighbor” when the reminders continue to stand? 

Returns – the term used as the different government agencies work to re-settle those who were displaced during the war back to the land/homes that they once occupied.  This process, which is connected to the concept of the village just mentioned, is a real sticking point in the status talks and process.  “Squatting” became a real problem after the refugees began returning to Kosovo.  Now the “powers that be” must untangle all of the facts and details to determine who has the right to property that is in dispute.  With few, if any records, it is a monumental and agonizing task to say the least for both sides.

The Bradleys were out again as was the presence of other countries and their military “muscle.”  This is very interesting and intriguing to me.  It kills me not to be able to ask what the heck is going on but – in that realm I fully realize I’m definitely on a “need to know” basis.  If I need to know someone will tell me.  Otherwise – no worries.  And, I have no worries.  I actually feel safer here than I do back at home at times.  They have no drive by shootings here, no car jackings, no meth labs, etc.  The reality is that, while they do have crime here, they have less here in a year than the major metropolitan area I which I live has in a month.  And, they have double the population in this whole province than does my city.

We stopped by Camp Bondsteel.  Anthony had a couple of things he needed to accomplish there before we returned to the Educational Summit.  We called to check on things as we were driving and all was well.  SFC Bumann said that the owners had served lunch outside like, “an American cookout”.  I was sorry we had missed that and was grateful to the owners for being so considerate.  They have been amazing – tending to any need we may have had.  There really haven’t been that many requests because they have really been on top of things.  The only item we wish could be changed is the power outages and they have no control over that.  It has been so hot in the meeting room this week that one man actually passed out.  They took him to the hospital but he came back!  Now that’s devotion to his profession!

After Dr. Anderson finished with the participants he spent time with INPO going over the material from the day.  Then Dr. Anderson and I road with Anthony and Dada to take Vladin back to Kllokot/Klokot.  He had asked us to accompany him and to have tea with his family so we did.  We met his mother and his brother.  I didn’t ask about his father – I don’t know if he is alive or not.  Best NOT to ask.  Vladin’s family was very kind and hospitable.  Vladin is the English teacher at the elementary school in Kllokot/Klokot.  He is in his early 20s and a wonderful young man.  I remarked that I really like the blouse that his mother was wearing.  When he told her what I said she dropped her head and responded in Serbian.  Vladin told me that she said she had received it as part of humanitarian aid they had received.  I felt awful.  While it doesn’t matter to me where she got the blouse it was obvious that she was embarrassed. 

Vladin’s mother has the most beautiful flower gardens, vegetable gardens and fruit trees.  It is obvious that she spends a lot of time tending to them.  They also, like so many in the village, have chickens running around the yard.  As we were leaving I was remarking about how lovely her gardens were.   Through Vladin she invited us to come back again and she would prepare one of the chickens for us.  Oh!  My mind immediately went from, “what a sacrifice that would be for them” to “I wonder which one it would be.”  Either way, I’m just not sure I can do that.  Oh, I grew up on a farm and we grew and canned our own vegetables and fruits as well as raised and slaughtered our own meat each winter but this just seemed different for some reason.  I suppose I was leaning more towards the sacrifice it would be for them to kill one of their precious chickens for us.

Another great day.  I’ve experienced so many emotions.  I’ve learned new things about myself and others.  While the poverty and conditions still trouble me I try to learn to be a stronger/better person by learning from those who live in those conditions and are thankful for what they have. 

29 July 2006 – Saturday

The mosquitoes and I seem to have come to an understanding this time.  Probably due to the spray I bathe myself in each night but……that’s OK with me and, quite honestly, I’ve no cares as to what they think!  I have only 4 huge bumps compared to so many last summer I couldn’t count them all.  I brought one of those “stick things” that you are supposed to use on mosquito bites to make the itch go away.  They don’t work on these bites - darn it.  I’m trying not to scratch but the itch in so intense.  The locals here think I’m crazy because of both the spray and the anti-itch stick.  They are amazed at all of the conveniences we have in America.

We had scheduled today to tour a couple of the schools in the area.  Our first stop was scheduled at 0900 hours at one of the high schools in Ferizaj/Uroševac.  There are five high schools in the municipality of Ferizaj/Uroševac.  Each high school offers different curriculum much as we might think of vo-tech schools in the United States.  The high school we were touring is called Gymnasium.  A bit confusing since that name has absolutely nothing to do with schools.  As I understand it the students who attend the Gymnasium High School receive a higher level of general education than those who might attend the “medical” high school or the “arts” high school, etc.

When we arrived the Director of Education for Ferizaj/Uroševac, the superintendent of the school and two teachers were waiting to meet us.  As we entered the school I noticed that the floors were covered in water and that there were men working and painting.  We were told that the purpose of the water was to keep the paint from sticking to the concrete floors and make it easier for clean up.  It didn’t really matter that we were walking through a pool of water.  The conditions of this building are abysmal.  And, we were told this is the high school that is in the best shape of all of the schools.  Unbelievable!

Workers applying a fresh coat of paint to the Gymnasium High School in Ferizaj/Uroševac.  Notice the light fixtures – no covers on them.  Also notice the desks that the students use.  Most of these are from the communist era and are 40 or more years old.  Three to four teenagers often squeeze together at one of these “desks”.  There are no lockers in the school in which students may store their things.  Many don’t have books so it doesn’t really matter I guess.

We made our way through various rooms which all looked alike – old furniture, bad repair, exposed lighting fixtures, nothing on the walls such as maps, periodical charts, etc.  No book cases, learning aids, etc.  How in the world do they get an education?  How do the teachers, who seem to be so dedicated, find a way to present information to these kids?  This has been a very sad and eye opening visit for me.

When they showed us the “library” for this school of over 4000 students I got tears in my eyes.  It was a room about 10 feet wide and 20 feet long with some metal shelving.  There were only a few hundred books and many of them were 20 or 30 copies of the same book.  I picked up a few and wondered how those particular books would even be helpful to a high school student?

  The library at the Gymnasium High School in Ferizaj/Uroševac. 

Our next stop was in the audio/video room.  Another huge shock to my system.  I haven’t seen some of this type of equipment ever and most since I was a small child.  Yet, this is what they have to work with.  One of the teacher commented that even though they have equipment to show films it is impossible to find the film in that type of media anymore.  Additionally, if they did have the correct media they can never depend on the power to be on long enough to show the film.

The Audio/Video room

By this point I “had the picture”.  I decided to step outside for a minute to collect myself.  I suppose part of me was thinking about so many of the students and schools in America that have so much more yet seem not to be thankful.  I thought about all of the gangs and fights and guns, etc. that plague the public school systems where I live.  I thought about the opportunities in America for people to get an education while realizing that it is a real struggle here for that to happen.  So, if these kids don’t get an education what kind of future can they even hope to have? 

As I stepped out of a door that lead to the playground area of the property I gasped.  At the back of the property in plain view was a structure still standing from the war.  Now I was angry at the people of Kosovo, too.  How can they expect these kids to “move on” in life, get along with each other and prosper if they can’t/won’t even remove a reminder like that from plain view of these kids?  EVERY day they come to school they are visually reminded of that time.  Most of the kids probably walked for miles/days with their families as refugees and remember that time – remember living in tents for months – remember the bombs.  Yet, the adults can’t take the time and energy to remove a physical reminder from view of the school yard.  Oh please let me find a quiet place for a few minutes!!!

View of home destroyed during the recent war from Gymnasium School yard

We finished the tour then sat so that Dr. Anderson could chat with the teachers and administrators for a few minutes before we left for the next school which is in another village about 45 minutes away.  Before we left we decided to take a group photo on the steps of the front entry to the school.

Front row left to right:  Aloudin (from INPO), SFT Pelliccio, Dr. Anderson, Leta, Director of Education for Ferizaj/Uroševac and Kristy

Back row – teachers and superintendent of Gymnasium High School in Ferizaj/Uroševac

We got in the vehicle and began the drive to Grancanica to see the school run by Balkan Sun Flowers.  We pulled out of Ferizaj/Uroševac and headed north on Route Hawk.  For some reason they don’t have highway numbers in Kosovo.  I suppose the military must have named the roads at one time and it stuck.  The major highways have signs on them with photos of the animal after which they are named.  Anyway, we drove north until just before the Serbian Orthodox church outside of Prishtinë/Priština at which point we turned right onto a road that wound its way through tiny settlements and beautiful farmland. 

Kosovo is an exceptionally beautiful area.  Not only do I find its beauty notable, I also find it to be quaint yet interesting that so many of the customs seem to be anchored in days of old.  Farm animals are “walked” from place to place by someone following them with a stick used to guide them on their way.  Hay is stored in huge old fashioned shocks that dot the valley floor – often appearing in groups – rarely alone.  One of these days I want to watch as they build the shocks.  I have no idea how they stand as they do without falling apart.  Shepherds and goat herders tend their stock as if it were a scene out of Heidi.   

As we continued on we passed a an archeological site that, apparently, has just recently been discovered.  It is said to be more Roman ruins.  There was a handful of people on site as well as a huge while tent with UN on the side.  Anthony said they are hoping to get some aerial views soon and try to find archeologists who are interested in this site and one other.  The other site is that of a Roman Fort over on the eastern side of the province that is beginning to show signs of being robbed by visitors.  I made a mental note of that.

Just as we were pulling in to Gracanica Anthony pointed out the Serbian Orthodox monastery.  We couldn’t see the entire building but could see the cupolas standing up over the tops of the buildings.  The road we were on practically dead ended at the monastery which is within a walled compound.  The monastery dates back to the 1300s.

Dr. Anderson had been asking all week for some sort of breakfast pastry and Anthony knew of a bakery in town.  We made a left and drove for a short distance past the end of the monastery wall and parked.  Yep, just across the road was a bakery.  We went in and Dada explained what each pastry was.  We picked and assortment and shared.  The pastries were very good and not too sweet.  Most were filled with fruit but one was filled with some sort of nuts.  Interestingly enough we almost had a difficult time paying for the pastries.  It seems that since we are in a Serbian enclave they preferred to be paid in Serbian dinars – not in Euros.  It’s not that they will not take Euros, it’s just that the locals use dinars so we had to pool our small euro coins to pay.  I was prepared to go to the bank to get dinars but thankful I didn’t have to.  At this point I already have US dollars, euros, Macedonian dinars (from the trips to Skopje to pick up Dr. Anderson and his bags) and Swiss francs.  I don’t really have a compartment for another type of currency in my wallet!

We walked by to the monastery, waving and greeting the military guards who were posted outside.  Once again I do not remember which country is in charge of that area.  Sorry.  We went through the gate and into the courtyard. 

Gate to the Serbian Orthodox Monastery in Gracanica as seen from the monastery looking back towards the street.

Dada went in to speak with the nuns to find out if they would allow us to enter.  Dada, Kristy and I had not, it seems, dressed appropriately to be allowed to enter reverently.  Wish I had known.  I guess Kristy and I were “sort of” acceptable in our dress – we had short sleeves and skirts on, Dada was in a tank top and pants.  The nun gave her a towel to place over her shoulders and we were allowed to enter.

Dada is a scholar of Serbian Orthodox history.  She took us through the monastery room by room and wall by wall explaining each of the frescos and their meaning.  It seems that each orthodox monastery is built by the same floor plan and with the same “subject” fresco on each wall depending on that wall’s location in the monastery.  However, depending upon who the artist(s) was in each monastery the scenes are, of course, interpreted differently.  It was a unique experience for me – one that I neither expected nor could possibly have appreciated enough with my less than limited knowledge of art and history.

Side view of the Serbian Orthodox Monastery in Gracanica

What I have learned bit by bit from my trips to Kosovo is that the Serbian Orthodox Churches and Monasteries have had to be heavily guarded due to threats to destroy them.   Many were heavily damaged or destroyed during the war.  And, during the March riots in 2004 the Patriarch in Pec/Peja was heavily damaged as well – so much so that the priests, monks and nuns had to evacuate.  It was only within the past few months that the military guards have been removed from the Serbian Orthodox churches but they continue to guard the monasteries. 

We left the monastery and walked back to the vehicle.  We had an appointment to meet with the director of the school being run by Balkan Sun Flowers.  It only took us about 5 minutes to get there.  When we turned off of the main road onto the side street where the school was located I returned to “reality – Kosovo style.”  The street was narrow and winding.  There were structures located on each side that were not in the best of shape.  We pulled over to the left in front of a wall with a gate.  This wall was surrounding the school property.  We walked through the gate into a courtyard.  Even though the courtyard was small I was absolutely thrilled to see that there were paintings of characters that brightened up the walls and the surroundings.  Someone had obviously spent a lot of time and taken care to make this environment as much a happy one as possible given the environment.

Courtyard of Balkan Sun Flower school in Gracanica

The director of the school came to greet us within moments of our arrival.  She is an amazing lady.  She works as a volunteer for Balkan Sun Flowers.  I discovered that as a volunteer that means that she shares a room with a local family and is only paid minimum expenses.  This lady TRULY gives of herself in order to make a difference in the lives of these children.  She is from Macedonia but has been living in Gracanica for over a year now.  The school is growing tremendously under her direction.  They now have over 75 students from pre-school through ninth grade level.  Because they have only one classroom the students must come in shifts throughout the day.  Each shift only has 2 hours for class instruction.  WOW!  I know it is a positive step but how in the world can you educate a child in 2 hours a day?  There are 5 teachers.  Each teacher is paid 60 Euros per month or about $75.00. 

We sat down in the classroom and talked with the director for about half and hour.  She told us that it has been difficult to get the children to come to school because many of the parents of the children who attend just do not see the need for education.  Most of their students are Roma.  They do not believe that females really need an education at all and as for the males – they would prefer they be working to bring in money for the family even at ages as young as 7 or 8.  Her ideas, energy and positive outlook are so refreshing.  Their needs are tremendous.  She and Dr. Anderson discussed specific needs.  He is going to do what he can to ship a large amount of supplies to her via the Soldiers.  We will continue to stay in touch with her and the school as we travel back and forth to Kosovo.

Photo of the classroom at Balkan Sun Flower in Gracanica

As we were loading up to drive back to Ferizaj/Uroševac we discovered that the director was about to leave for Prishtinë/Priština in order to catch a bus to Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia) to spend a couple of days with her family.  She was going to have to walk to Prishtinë/Priština which is about 10 miles.  We had not planned to return to Ferizaj/Uroševac via Prishtinë/Priština but could not allow her to walk that distance with her luggage.  So, I cleared out a spot in the back of the vehicle, threw her bag in and climbed in to sit on top of all of the “cargo” leaving my seat in the vehicle for her – just seemed like the right thing to do.  As we started down the road I began to wonder why I had “volunteered” to ride in the back.  The roads are horrible and the bumps were jarring my back like crazy.  Oh well, just another Kosovo experience to remember and write about, huh?

We dropped her off at the bus station then we stopped to grab soup and salad for lunch since it was mid afternoon and we had not eaten.  I’d heard about the restaurant where we stopped but could not believe it when I actually saw it with my own eyes.  They had cages – NOT pens – cages that held grown bears, peacocks, some type of wild cats and other animals.  It was supposed to be a “zoo” but there is no way I would describe it as such.  The animals were in quarters way too small for their own good and it was HOT!  The cages were clean and the animals did have food and water but it just seemed so cruel to have them penned up that way.  Sure didn’t do a lot for the appetite.  During lunch we discussed with Dr. Anderson what we had seen that day on our tour of school and the basic needs that are so essential and urgently needed. 

We drove back to Ferizaj/Uroševac and dropped Dr. Anderson off with Dani.  He was going to spend the evening with INPO discussing their organization as well as the work they are doing on the translation from the Educational Summit.  We also dropped Kristy off.  She’ll meet us at Gate 1 of Camp Bondsteel to go to dinner later.  The rest of us went to Camp Bondsteel.  The Soldiers had their weekly detachment meeting at 1600 hours then we were all going to dinner in Binac.  I waited in the CA (Civil Affairs) supply room while they were having their meeting.  I met a couple of the Psyops Soldiers while waiting for the meeting to conclude.

After the meeting we loaded up to go to dinner.  I hopped in the car with Kristy and the Soldiers took their own vehicles.  I wanted to take them to dinner to both thank them for their support as well as to meet the Soldiers on this rotation that I had not met.  I also wanted to opportunity to chat with the new Soldiers about the projects on which they are working to find out if we can dove tail anything together.  It was nice to meet everyone and to chat about the different projects they are either working on or would like to work on.

Photo of 353rd CA COM Detachment at dinner

After dinner Kristy and I went in to Ferizaj/Uroševac to have coffee and see if we could find anyone we knew.  As luck would have it we noticed a volleyball tournament going on in the city square.  We looked and looked for parking but couldn’t find any.  Suddenly I had this bright idea to park in the municipality lot since we were in one of their cars.  The lot is adjacent to where they were playing volleyball.  BRILLIANT!  Simply BRILLIANT!  (Later it wouldn’t be so brilliant!).  Anyway, I got out and raised the gate so that Kristy could drive in.  We parked and walked over to the game.  We found out that it was being sponsored by the Greek Camp.  They had brought in sand and everything to make it like beach volleyball.  There were several two man/women teams.  The crowd was huge and everyone seemed to be having a good time.

Kristy and I ran in to some US LMTs (Liason Monitoring Team) Soldiers and chatted with them for a bit.  A few on the INPO members came up to say hello.  Kristy and I split up and decided to meet at the internet café later.

When “later” arrived we met and checked our email.  Then we walked over to the municipality parking lot and discovered that the gate to the lot had been locked and we could not get the car out.  OK, so maybe my BRILLIANT idea wasn’t so darn brilliant after all, huh?  We walked across the railroad tracks and hopped in to a cab to take us to the Ilazis. 

30 July 2006 – Sunday

Today was designated a “down” or “off” day so that we could all get some rest and relax a bit.  I woke up at 0900 hours and the power was off.  So, I grabbed a book and propped myself up in bed and read for a while.  Around 1100 hours the power finally came on and I ran to the shower to take advantage of the situation not knowing how long it might be on.

After that I went downstairs with plans to make some chocolate chip cookie bars to take to the cookout planned later today.  Well……………I guess the Ilazis decided it would be nice to help me out so they cooked the cookie bars last night and, alas, they were burned.  Oh, well.  It was an idea anyway.

After Kristy and I were both showered and dressed we went to Ben Af to get buns, chips, soft drinks, desserts, etc. for the cookout.  We’re having it at Camp Bondsteel.  I shipped them a grill a few months back and they seem to have enjoyed having it to use so today we’ll share it together.  They are buying the hamburger meat and wieners at the PX on Bondsteel because it’s more “American” than what we can buy outside the wire.  I also picked up mustard, ketchup and mayo.  When I sent the grill I had sent a separate box with grill spices, condiments and grill tools but apparently they have used the grill so much they are about out of the spices, etc.  Guess I’ll have to send more.

Anyway, Kristy and I drove to Camp Bondsteel and parked in the lot across the road from Gate 1.  Anthony came to pick us up and get us cleared through the gate.  We went to their sea huts.  Terry (SFC Bumann) already had the grille going when we got there.  A few minutes after we arrived Anthony got a phone call from Peter Duffy (US AID) who was at the PX on Camp Bondsteel.  Anthony drove over to pick him up.  I was thrilled that he had made it because I really wanted him and LTC Holliday to meet and chat about projects.  As it turned out it was a great meeting for both of them.

  LTC Holliday, Peter Duffy and Anthony on the porch of the sea hut at Camp Bondsteel discussing potential project partnerships

While we were waiting for the burgers and hot dogs to finish cooking a couple of the guys and I picked up a football and began throwing it around.  From the “peanut gallery” I heard LTC Holliday yell – “don’t break her nails!”  I’m pretty sure he “heard” what I said to him by the look I gave him.  My nails had not been mentioned ONE time on this trip and I was about to think I was FINALLY going to make it through a trip without that discussion.  OK, so my one self indulgence is to have someone else do my nails about once every 2 or 3 weeks.  So what?  And if I break one it will grow back.  AND – if I’d been worried about breaking one I would NOT have been throwing a football (better than one of the guys I might add)!   Of course several of us got a good laugh out of that.  I have learned to wear clear polish when I go to Kosovo as opposed to red or pink so as not to “draw” the attention of the Soldiers and have to listen to their comments.  I mean – it’s not like no female in Kosovo wears nail polish – they ALL do!

Terry did a great job cooking the burgers and hot dogs.  We all had a wonderful time sitting around nibbling and chatting for a couple of hours.

  The group enjoying the cookout at Camp Bondsteel

We got one other good laugh out of an exchange between LTC Holliday and me but, unfortunately, it wouldn’t be prudent to write about it here.  Oh, of course, nothing security related but……………some people can’t take “a joke!”  It’s a bit of an inside joke about another Soldier that drives us crazy!  Just wanted to make a note here to remind myself about it when I read this in the years to come.

When we returned to the Ilazi’s house I brought out more of those “amazing” inventions from America – boxed cake mix and canned frosting.  Adelina (youngest daughter) loves to bake.  I brought these once before and they were such a hit for here that I decided to ship more for this time.  She and Kristy set about to bake cupcakes.  I just sat on the couch and visited while they did.   

 Adelina and Kristy making cupcakes

Kristy and I went out for coffee with some of our INPO friends then called it a night.

There’s really not a whole lot to write about this day as you can probably tell.  It was exactly as we had wanted a needed – a day of rest.

31 July 2006 – Monday

Day 4 – Educational Summit

The alarm went off WAY too early this morning.  I was up at 0500 hours.  Thankfully there was power so I ran straight to the shower.  I got dressed as quietly as possible so as not to awaken anyone.  NO such luck.  When I walked downstairs Mrs. Ilazi was up and offering me hot tea.  I wish she had stayed in bed.  I’m just not sure when she sleeps but I do know that she doesn’t sleep for long periods of time.  She is up when we are and awake when we come home regardless of the hour.  I have asked and asked that she not do that but to no avail.  So, she and I had tea.

Terry (SFC Bumann) was supposed to pick me up at 0645 hours so that I could ride with him to Gracanica to accompany the group from Balkan Sun Flowers to the Educational Summit.  I hadn’t had much time to visit with Terry on this trip so I wanted to make this ride with him to catch up on things.  And, I wanted to show him I much I appreciate him for accompanying the group from Gracanica to and from the Summit each day.  Why, you might ask, is he accompanying them anyway?  Easy answer but sad one – security.  They are coming from a Serbian enclave/village through land occupied by Albanians and to an Albanian city – not always a safe journey in Kosovo for those who are not of Albanian heritage.   

The municipality is putting in a new sewer line along the “main road” a couple of blocks from Dani’s house.  I wasn’t sure if Terry would be able to turn down Dani’s street so I decided to walk out to the main road.  Would love to be able to tell you the name of the road/street but, they just don’t have names.  About the best way to give directions is to either tell of a landmark or to count the “major” potholes from one turn to the next.  Either way – the locals and the military can follow the directions.  Terry had been to Dani’s house before so he knew how to get there – I just wasn’t sure if he could get there.

It was a beautiful morning.  It’s been hot and humid but not nearly so much as last summer.  And, it was quiet as not many people were up and about as yet.  I immediately noticed that the houses along the street that had been hosting weddings had all taken down the flags that denote there is a wedding going one.  Hurray!  No more music all night.  No more gun shots to blast me out of bed in the wee hours!  Back to “normal”.  Now all if have to listen to at night are the sounds of crying babies and animals of all sorts.  I can do that!  I allowed myself to imagine what it might be like living here long term.  I thought about going out each day to the market for fresh bread, vegetables, meats and such.  I thought about how solid the family units are here.  I thought about the laid back lifestyle.  I figured I’d be able to do it but that I would, most certainly, struggle with the laid back part of it.  I always struggle with that here.  Seems I’m always on Dani about “hurrying up”.  Maybe I NEED to spend some extended time here.  Maybe………

As I was walking down the side street that Dani’s family lives on I began to laugh out loud.  I was laughing at myself.  How many times have we all grumbled and complained about it being difficult to drive in Kosovo because so many people walk in the MIDDLE of the streets and roads?  Guess what I was doing?  Yep, walking right in the middle of the street.  Why?  I have NO idea!  There are no sidewalks and there was no traffic but I still have no idea why I was walking down the middle of the street.  I did, however, move to one side for the remainder of the walk.

When I got to the end of the side street there was a HUGE gaping hole where they were digging to install the new sewer line.  I’m happy to see that they are installing the line because in all prior visits the sewage has just collected in the ditches along the sides of the street.  The stench, at times, has been nauseating.  The sanitary conditions are deplorable.  Now, I’m certainly not an engineer but I must say that I have qualms about this sewer line.  It doesn’t seem level for sure and it also appears to snake up and down along the route where they are installing it.  I suppose I thought there needed to be some sort of “drop” along the way for it to work without pumps and there are no pumps.  Guess time will tell.

Anyway, at the end of the street I noticed an elderly man with an old scythe.  He was cutting down some tall grass that was growing up along the side of a building.  We made eye contact and I waved.  He smiled then said, “American?”  I answered by saying “Po” (Albanian for “yes”) and smiled back.  He then said something that I did not understand so I just smiled back and waved.  He continued to work and I waited for Terry who drove up within minutes. 

We drove back out to Route Hawk and turned left (North) towards Prishtinë/Priština retracing the route we had taken on Saturday when we went to visit Balkan Sun Flower’s school.  We met the group at the monastery then turned back to Ferizaj/Uroševac and Ujevara. 

I was a bit concerned about our attendance for today since it is the vacation season here.  I shouldn’t have been.  Almost all of the attendees returned for day 4.  Very exciting!  I was always hopeful that this group would be interested and appreciative in our efforts to help them begin the process of rebuilding their elementary and secondary education system.  Now I know that we have made a good choice to take on this huge project and I feel that we will work together for a successful outcome down the road.  Dr. Anderson is absolutely on board with this project and is making some big plans for the near and distant future.

After lunch Anthony, Dada and I left to meet LTC Holliday in Kllokot/Klokot to pay a visit on Grandpa and his family.  Grandpa (George) has been a big help to PTP and to KFOR on several occasions.  He lives in a Serbian enclave and can be very outspoken when necessary.  He is probably the poorest person with respect to “things” that I have ever met in my life but he is, beyond any doubt, one of the greatest human beings I’ve had the honor to meet.  I had a few boxes of clothes and things for the family.  We also made a quick stop to pick up basic food items for the family.  Perhaps the most exciting item I had for him was a letter and some photos from an American Soldier that served in Kosovo and that Grandpa developed a close relationship with.  Dada had interpreted it from English to Serbian.  We took both versions.  Sure enough – not long after we had arrived and settled in to drink tea and visit he specifically asked about that Soldier.  I handed him the letter and photos and he was so pleased!

We talked a little business with Grandpa.  He asked about all of our families (tradition in Kosovo to do that).  We drank tea.  Grandpa has a granddaughter who is the darling of all of the Soldiers who’ve met her (male and female alike).  LTC Holliday, who has served in Iraq, Afghanistan and other places around the world and who is “tough as nails” when he needs to be, was so darn cute with her.  She would walk up to him and he would grab her and put her on his lap.  I LOVE watching the “human” side of the Soldiers.  These Civil Affairs guys really DO know how to “win the hearts and minds…” which is their charge.  We all passed the granddaughter around and played with her while we were talking.

  LTC Holliday, Grandpa’s daughter and granddaughter, MAJ Starnes

One of Grandpa’s grandson’s, who is about 3, was so cute.  The last time I was at their home (in April 2006) his father had brought him home a new pair of shoes that were WAY too big for him.  So, I had brought him 2 new pair of shoes.  He would put on one pair then the other and parade around in them.  It’s the little things in life that are so big to them.  I had also brought pudding cups.  I think he must have eaten 4 while we were there.  He had pudding from ear to ear along with a smile the same size.  It made my day! 

Leta and Grandpa outside his house in Kllokot/Klokot

We left Grandpa’s house.  LTC Holliday and MAJ Starnes had to return to Camp Bondsteel for a meeting.  Anthony, Dada and I made one more stop.  There is a young man in Kllokot/Klokot that I have fallen in love with.  I first met him back in December 2005 when we had the Christmas party at the school.  He was the young man who assisted us in putting all of the food out then he took a seat until his class came in.  I was so impressed with his manners and the way he carried himself.  Later that same day we were out and about viewing the sewer issue that we later repaired there.  He would take my hand to “assist” me from falling on the ice and snow.  His name is Nikola.  I had stopped by to see him on my trip in April but he was sick and we didn’t get to visit much. 

Just before we left Grandpa’s house Nikola had come over.  Kllokot/Klokot is small and news gets around when “the American” shows up.  We drove over to his house and his family met us at their gate.  They invited us in for tea and coffee.  I told them we could only stay for a few minutes.  We had to get back to Ferizaj/Uroševac before the Summit was over for the day.  I met Nikola’s mother, father and sister.  They were all so very nice and we enjoyed visiting with them albeit briefly.  I remarked to his parents at how much of a gentleman Nikola is and how much I appreciate the way they have raised him to be so.  I could tell they are very proud of both of their children. 

Before we left Nikola mentioned his trip to the ocean.  I knew that KFOR had worked with a group from the Belgrade Stock Exchange to assist in getting a group of youngsters to Serbia for holiday.  The employees of the Stock Exchange wanted to send the kids on vacation and asked KFOR to help with the logistics from Kllokot.  I didn’t know that Nikola had been one of the children chosen.  Dada looked at me and said, “Oh, we made sure he went because we knew how much you like him.”  I got a bit weepy over that.  What a once in a lifetime experience for these kids.  Not only do their families not have the money for them to be able to take trips like that but because of the “issues” within Kosovo it is practically impossible for them to travel outside their village at all for fear of being harmed.  A sad state for sure.

It was hard for me to leave Nikola.  He has such a special place in my heart.  Before we left I asked if we could have a photo taken and we did.

  Leta and Nikola’s family in Kllokot/Klokot

1 August 2006 – Tuesday

5th and final day of Educational Summit

Kristy and I picked Dr. Anderson up this morning, as we have every morning, for the Education Summit.  And, as always he was in the lobby waiting when I walked down the narrow alley way to the hotel to fetch him. 

When we arrived at Ujevara I was shocked to see that so many of the participants were already there having coffee.  We are all so thrilled for the educational system here that this has turned out to be such a success.  The teachers and administrators have all indicated they have gotten more from the summit than they ever imagined or expected they would.  And now here they are EARLY!!!  Where’s the media when you need it?  HA!  People in Kosovo not just on time but EARLY!!!  What a statement.  Anthony and Terry were also there with their respective groups.  Anthony had to drop and go – he had things to do at Camp Bondsteel but would return ASAP.

Everyone was so excited and talking about the summit that no one seemed to want to move in to the meeting hall.  I got behind them to “shoo” them like a flock of geese.  They were all laughing at me.  Probably was a bit funny to witness.  We had to get them going because the Municipal President, Deputy Municipal President, other dignitaries and the media were due at 1100 hours for an appreciation ceremony.  I hadn’t wanted the ceremony that early but we had to work around the schedules of the officials.  So, we decided to have the ceremony, eat lunch then finish the work Dr. Anderson has for them in the afternoon. 

A little before 1100 hours the officials, dignitaries and media began to arrive.  We shifted from classroom work to the ceremony.  Before we began handing out certificates and such I was asked to make a few remarks.  Just about the time I started I looked up and noticed Anthony and LTC Holliday walking in.  I was so pleased.  LTC Holliday has been wanting to attend throughout the entire summit but has been busy with things back at Camp Bondsteel and around the sector.  I’m happy that he was able to find/make the time to join us.

Leta making closing remarks at the Educational Summit in Ferizaj/Uroševac.

After I made remarks the Municipal President and Director of Education did so as well.  I was not surprised but VERY pleased that both of them made a point to welcome the non-Albanian participants and thank them for their contributions to the summit.  NOW we’re talkin’ people!!!  A small but very important step.

It’s just expected in Kosovo that EVERYONE gets a certificate.  So, we gave certificates to the elected officials and dignitaries.  We gave them to the interpreters and to the other INPO members.  We gave them to the owners of Ujevara.  I got a certificate from the municipality.  The participants gave certificates to the KFOR Soldiers.  They also gave a certificate and gifts to Dr. Anderson.  The gentleman who spoke on behalf of the participants when presenting the gifts to Dr. Anderson was very eloquent.  The participants were exceptionally grateful for Dr. Anderson and what he had shared with him as well as his presentation manner.  They feel like there is now hope.  It was touching to say the least.

THEN – each of the participants got certificates.  I did pretty darn well pronouncing all of the names for the ones I gave out although the INPO members did laugh at my accent a few times.  I would have, too!  I had asked not to have to present all of the certificates since there were so many.  It would have taken forever with my limited knowledge of their languages. 

 Participants receiving their certificates from the Educational Summit

 After we gave out the certificates the photos and media interviews began.  That took FOREVER! 

  Part of the group of participants at the Educational Summit

We ate lunch together – another American “style” cookout with burgers and salad.  Then all of the participants, Dr. Anderson and the members of INPO went back inside to finish up.  Kristy and I sat outside for a while to chat about the summit and to relax for a bit.  I’m so glad Kristy agreed to come along on this trip.  It really has made it easier for me because I know that if I ask her to do something or go somewhere she can just “do it”.  Here prior service here on deployment is so valuable to PTP in many ways.  And, she’s just a darn good person to boot!

The Summit ended around mid afternoon and we packed up all of our materials.  Well, we did pack them up but we gave all the extra office supplies to INPO.  They will, most definitely, put them to good use.  It’s not worth the cost to ship them back home anyway.  They were pleased at our gesture.

Dr. Anderson sat down with INPO to review the materials from the day and to go over the documents, charts and graphs they had already given me.  He remarked to me that the work they have done at night this week would have taken his staff back in the states a month to complete AND without the marvelous charts and graphs.  I’ve said it in other daily journals – I am SO proud of the young adults of INPO.  They are so professional, so dedicated and SO on track about the right things to do and how to accomplish them.  They have really saved Dr. Anderson and his staff a lot of time.  Additionally this will allow Dr. Anderson to report more quickly to groups and organization with which he plans to partner with on this project.  Everyone’s a winner!

Tonight Kristy and I hopped in the car and drove to Gjilan/Gnjilane to meet SFC Craemer (John) for dinner.  Kristy and John are in the same Reserve Unit.  They served together in OIF1.  I had only briefly met John at the tailgate meeting at Camp Bondsteel so I was looking forward to getting to know more about him and about the projects he is working on in his part of the sector.  We met John and 2 interpreters at a restaurant across the road from the entrance to Camp Monteith.  We had a nice time chatting.  John told me about several projects which his team is currently working on and about a few others he hopes to tackle.  After dinner I asked if we could go for coffee/macchiato.  Everyone was in agreement to do that.  We decided to take one vehicle I lieu of two.  We got in John’s vehicle and began to drive to the coffee shop.  John has country music playing.  Oh thank you!!!!  Anthony listen to that “noise” that late teen and early twenty year olds listen to and I’m about had all of that I can take.  Suddenly one of the interpreters (Serbian) began singing along with Toby Keith at the top of his lungs.  I laughed so hard!  Music – the universal language!

I’d heard that one of the CA Soldiers had been seen in uniform with a cowboy hate on.  What?  Sure enough – right there in plain view in the back of the vehicle was THE evidence.  Of course I had to pick it up and put it on and wear it while we were having coffee.

John is very high energy, very intelligent, very outspoken and very intent on getting things accomplished.  It was both a pleasure and an honor to get to know him a bit better.  We discussed a couple of projects that are most important to him.  I asked him to send me information on them so that I could see if I could get him some assistance.

Kristy and I drove back to Ferizaj/Uroševac and I called it a night after having tea with the Ilazis.  We have a VERY early day tomorrow and Thursday.  I think Kristy went out to either check her email at an internet café or to play soccer/futbol. 

2 August 2006 – Wednesday

0300 hours – RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRING!  Ugh, must be the alarm clock!  Where is it?  It’s so darn dark in here I can’t find it.  RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRING!  Ok! Ok!  Give me a minute darn it.  Whew!  Finally got that foul noise to stop.  Hey, it’s still dark outside.  What’s up with this?  Did the “sun” go out in Kosovo along with the power?  Oh, it’s Wednesday and we have to be at Gate 1 outside Camp Bondsteel at 0430 hours or LTC Holliday has promised to, well, I’ll use MY words, leave us.

Today was, without a doubt, a once in a lifetime experience.  LTC Holliday and SGT Pelliccio had been invited to the Serbian Orthodox Monastery in Decani (Serbian spelling – I didn’t get the Albanian spelling of the village – sorry).  Papa Dragan has invited them and us to a high feast in celebration of St. Elias.  It’s a goodwill trip for CA and an amazing opportunity for this little farm girl from Arkansas.

I hopped in the shower then got Kristy up.  We got ready and tip toed down the stairs so as not to awaken anyone.  There was no need for them to wake up – we didn’t have time for tea this morning.  We drove to the hotel to pick up Dr. Anderson.  Kristy parked on the street and I made the trek down the dark alleyway to the hotel front door.  The power was off downtown and the generators were running loudly.  If I’d gotten knocked in the head Kristy would never have heard anything.  Anyway, when I got to the hotel front door I reached to open it and it was locked.  No worries – Dr. Anderson was sitting in a chair in the lobby waiting for me.  I knocked and he acknowledged me.  He opened the interior “outside” door making his way outside to join me.  He pushed on the exterior door and – well, it wouldn’t open from side either.  He pushed, I pulled.  He looked for a way to “open” the door and found nothing.  At this point all I can hear are generators and this little voice in my head – OK it was a LOUD voice of LTC Holliday – telling me if we’re not on time he’s, well, leaving us.

The lobby was pitch black.  There was no one at the front desk.  Dr. Anderson disappeared into the darkness and left me standing there.  I looked around and found a bell.  I pushed and a light came on.  Okay, I thought, this may work.  Probably someone is sleeping in one of the rooms and will hear this.  So, in true American fashion I laid on it!  No one ever came as a result of that.  About that time Kristy came walking up to check on us.  I filled her in on what was going on.  Dr. Anderson reappeared with a key.  He had gone behind the front desk and gotten his room key to see if it would work.  Nope!  Tic toc, tic toc.  Time’s marching on.  Can’t/won’t keep LTC H waiting.   I asked Dr. Anderson to use the phone at the front desk and dial zero.  Right!  Zero.  NOT!

So, the long and short of this story is that Dr. Anderson was locked INSIDE the hotel and we couldn’t get him out.  He told me to go on without him but to call Dani and have Dani pick him up around 1000 hours and he would spend the day with Dani.  I had no other choice.  When we got back to later that night Dr. Anderson said he had talked to the hotel personnel and they told him they live off site.  In the future if he needs to enter or leave between 2300 and 0700 hours he will need to inform them in advance.  At this point I’m wondering what in the world he and the other guests would have done had there been a fire or another sort of emergency?

Kristy and I said our good-byes to Dr. Anderson through the door.  We all got a good laugh out of it and we scurried off to meet LTC Holliday, Anthony and the interpreters.  When we got to the parking lot outside of Gate 1 they weren’t there yet.  Whew!  They drove up in just a couple of minutes.  I hopped in the vehicle with LTC Holliday and Pavil (Serbian interpreter) and Kristy hopped in with Anthony, Dada (Serbian interpreter) and Mario (Croatian interpreter).   We turned right (east) out of Camp Bondsteel for the hour’s drive to Kamenicë/Kamenica where we would pick up Papa Dragan (Serbian Orthodox priest), a gentleman from his church in Kamenicë/Kamenica and that man’s grandson.  I was riding with LTC Holliday so that we could discuss what had transpired so far on this trip, what was yet to be done and my “to do” list I am bringing home with me.  He’s so busy I try to take advantage of any opportunity I have to spend with him. 

We arrived in Kamenicë/Kamenica on time and no one was there yet.  This was my first visit to this village.  It is, obviously, a Serbian village.  I’ve noticed that, for the most part, the Serbian villages seem to be kept in much better condition than the Albanian ones.  No piles of garbage everywhere.  Refreshing!  Within a few minutes Papa Dragan and the other gentleman arrived.  The grandson wasn’t coming after all.  LTC Holliday took Papa Dragan, his friend and Pavil with him.  The rest of us loaded up in Anthony’s vehicle.  We back tracked to Gjilan/Gnjilane where we took the ring road then turned right onto the road to Prishtinë/Priština.  I had never been on this road either.  I was surprised at how beautiful the drive was.  It was winding and hilly with mountain lakes here and there.  It was a picture perfect morning and a picture perfect day.  So, why you might ask, didn’t I take any pictures to share during the drive?  If you’ve ever ridden with Anthony you wouldn’t have to ask that question.  And, LTC Holliday vividly remembers having to drive like a bat out of hell in Iraq just to keep from being shot (when they often were actually shot at and the vehicle hit) so he seems to drive the same way here, too.  Well, not all the time.  This morning I felt like a rag doll being tossed from side to side as we wound our way along this route.

On the west side of Prishtinë/Priština just after we drove by KEK (the so-called power plant) we missed a turn.  Didn’t take long to figure that out so we turned around and continued on in the correct direction.  About 15 minutes outside of Prishtinë/Priština Anthony called LTC Holliday to say we needed to stop for a rest room break.  Within a minute or two he pulled off the road into a field.  What?  I’m NOT going to “go” on the side of the road behind some bushes and trees sir!  Believe me – I have the HIGHEST respect for LTC Holliday but I had to give him a lot of grief over this.  We got back in the vehicles and continued on.  Kristy, Dada and I were miserable.  Down the road a bit LTC H pulled off at a gas station for us.  OK, you win sir!  The bathroom was – well – I’d really rather not describe how deplorable it was.  The trees and bushes would have been MUCH better. 

We drove on to Pejë/Pec, the next “major” city.  I had been to Pejë/Pec once before.  On the drive between Prishtinë/Priština and Pejë/Pec Anthony pointed towards the right and indicated that a few clicks off in that direction was the village of Klinë/ Klina.  There is a Catholic Church there that is new and had some bells donated for their belfries and KFOR had been working to find a way to install the bells.  The three bells donated by a Catholic Church in Austria.  There are three of them and they are:

-          3,350 kg, 190cm, 218 cm

-          1,520 kg, 190cm, and 167cm

-          650 kg, 110cm, and 128cm

WOW!  Those are some big bells.  Anyway, KFOR is working with other KFOR countries to find a crane both big enough and long enough to reach the belfries so they can be installed.

Mario, the interpreter, began telling about how much of the area we were passing through was were the majority of the intense fighting, ethnic cleansing and genocide had taken place before and during the most recent war.  It wasn’t difficult to see that to be true.  I was shocked at the amount of destruction that was still visible.  If you’ve never been in a war zone (as many haven’t) words and photos truly cannot describe either what it truly looks like or especially what it feels like to see this so I won’t even attempt to do so.

On the other (west) side of Pejë/Pec I was in an area I had never been in before.  We got behind military convoys from other nations and that slowed us down a bit.  Once we got to Decani we wound through the village until we came to a check point that is manned by the Italians.  On approach to the check point there were manned tanks and a lot of armed military personnel.  I remarked about that and Dada, Anthony and Mario all explained that the Serbia Orthodox Monasteries and Churches are still targets in Kosovo today of extremist/terrorist groups – especially this monastery, the one we saw in Gracanica and the Patriarch Monastery in Pejë/Pec.  (More on the Patriarch later in this entry).  LTC Holliday talked to the guards at the gate and they waved us through.  We drove about a quarter of a mile more up the mountain and parked.  There were armed Italian guards there, too.

We all got out and followed Papa Dragan up to the gate.  He paused and motioned for us to be quiet/calm and we entered through the passage way and into the inner part of the monastery grounds.  It was absolutely breathtaking.  We meandered around, down a flag stone walkway and into the Church.  WOW!!!  Built in the 13th Century.  Same floor plan as the monastery in Gracanica but the painter(s) was obviously different.  We took our places along the wall with others who had come for the service.  There were only a handful of people in attendance.  I’m not sure if that is due to travel problems or what.  The monks were already chanting when we arrived.  Papa Dragan disappeared almost immediately into an area that is off limits to the public.  What appeared to me to be several rituals were performed.  The acoustics were amazing!  I was spellbound at the chanting of the monks – very calming.  Of course I had no idea what they were chanting but it didn’t matter. 

Overhead was a huge iron chandelier that was lit with candles.  It was suspended from the ceiling by chains and had been set in to motion in a circular swinging motion for the service.  I just could not take it all in – the chanting, the beauty of the frescos, and the starkness of the structure aside from the frescos.  WOW!  WOW!  WOW!

I was standing to the right of Dada.  Suddenly I noticed tears running down her face.  Oh my.  Dada never gets emotional.  She is one of the strongest people I have EVER met.  Emotion is nothing I’ve ever experienced with her.  I reached to put my arm around her.  I knew that she had been so excited about this trip.  She had mentioned that even as a child she had dreamed of being able to visit this monastery.  At that time in her life this was Yugoslavia and there were no travel restrictions but here parents just never brought her here.  By the time she was old enough to travel on her own war and unrest had begun and it was not safe for her to travel here.  In college she had studied photos of each of the frescos inch by inch by inch.  When I put my arm around her she turned to me and whispered, “It’s just not fair!” then “life is just not fair.”  I lost it then and I began to tear up.  She asked me if I had Kleenex and I didn’t.  I quietly turned to leave in search of some and to collect myself.  Pavil (Serbian interpreter) was sitting outside and noticed I had tears.  He didn’t ask or say anything but reached in his backpack and handed me tissues.  I went back in and gave them to Dada. 

Papa Dragan reappeared and began to assist with the serving of the sacraments.  He looked like a kid at Christmas.  As I’m told this monastery is very important to those of the Serbian Orthodox faith – I suppose it can be thought of as one of their holiest places.  Because of travel restrictions he is not able to come here often at all.  This was a real thrill for him.  And, the monks obviously knew who he was.

After the service we all followed Papa Dragan to a fountain to wash up before lunch.

  Anthony washing at the fountain prior to lunch at the Decani Monastery with the Monks

The water was so cold.  Papa Dragan told us it comes straight from a mountain stream.  I leaned over and drank from one of the spigots using my hand to collect the water to drink it.  I noticed a watermelon in the water cooling! 

Papa Dragan lead us up stairs that had been well worn over the centuries.  We turned right and followed him out to an open air area filled with picnic type tables and benches.  The tables were already set and the monks were bringing out platters and bowls of food.  We were directly to our seats.  Uh oh – along with the food were bottles of their home made wine, Rakia and apple juice.  What is it about these priests and monks and their Rakia?  That stuff is dangerous!

The meal consisted of soup (which was delicious), filled grape leaves, grilled fish, chicken, potatoes, tomatoes, home made yeast bread, salad, phyllo filled with spinach and meat, olives, an amazing roasted pepper spread and cornbread.  The cornbread had lots of “stuff” in it that I couldn’t identify but it, like everything else was delicious!

 At lunch at the Decani Monastery

Towards the end of the meal the Monks asked Papa Dragan to address the group.  We didn’t ask the interpreters to tell us what he was saying.  It didn’t seem appropriate at the moment.

After lunch we were taken on a tour of the church as well as the entire Monastery by one of the Monks.  Dada interpreted for us.  The tour lasted over an hour and she was worn out.  Can’t say that I blame her.  Pavil sort of “disappeared” and wasn’t around to help her with the interpretation.  Turns out he’s anything but religious but we brought him in deference to Papa Dragan.  It worked out!

Our tour included the church and all of the historical information about it. 

 Fresco on ceiling of Decani Monastery

I  Looking towards the alter at the Decani Monastery

Then we toured the grounds including the vineyards, vegetable gardens and fields.  The next stop was the dairy and the cheese shop.  The dairy cows were HUGE but sweet.  I loved getting to pet them.

Next we entered the wine cellar.  The winery is not on site but the wine is bottled on site and can be purchased as well.  I bought 2 bottles to bring home for holidays or special events.  They also sold their home made Rakia there.  OK, as much as I’ve whined about the Rakia I also bought 2 bottles of it.  Might thought process is that hopefully someday we’ll have a reunion in the US and the Soldiers will be able to drink the Rakia then.  One thing for sure – I won’t be opening it to sip on it myself!

We moved on to the Icon shop.  From what I understand the icons made at this monastery and by these Monks are highly sought after.  I learned during the tour that there is at least a one year wait to receive an icon once it is ordered.  The Monk took us through ever step of the process.  Each step in completed in a different room of a specific building on the property.  When we got to the room where they hand paint the Icons there were several placed about on easels and in different stages of completion.  They were gorgeous.  We were shown the pigments, the different brushes and other tools they use in each process.  We were also shown several centuries old Icons that are displayed.

In the Icon shop at the Decani Monastery

Anthony wanted to purchase one of the Icons.  He spoke, via Dada, to the Monk who indicated that he would have to introduce Anthony to the Monk in charge of the sales.  After we finished our tour Anthony met the Monk in charge of the sale of the Icons and they worked things out.

 Photo of the Icon like the design Anthony ordered

LTC Holliday, the Monk who conducted our tour, another Monk and Anthony.

We really enjoyed our time at the Decani Monastery and were thankful to both Papa Dragan for the invitation as well as to the Monks for their hospitality and kindness.

We left Decani and began our way back towards Prishtinë/Priština.  As we got to Pejë/Pec we made an unexpected turn to the left.  Papa Dragan wanted to stop by the Serbian Orthodox Patriarch.  OK, once again I’m out of my league here but I believe this is the “seat” of the Serbian Orthodox Church.  It is another monastery compound.  I do know that in March 2004 (during the March riots that began in Mitrovica) this property was invaded and the priests, monks and nuns had to evacuate in order to keep from being harmed.  There was damage done to the property at that time.  It has only been recently that they have been able to return.

Once again we drove by manned tanks and stopped at a checkpoint and where we were cleared by the Italian military personnel on duty.  We drove past more tanks, parked, went through the gate and into the most beautiful garden area.  The garden area showed significant signs of destruction but also signs of rebirth.  There were flowers and flowering bushes and trees everywhere.  We walked through the gardens to the church and entered.  I was shocked at the construction that was being done in part of the church.  It appeared as if those who attacked it had attempted to burn it.  What a shame on so many levels.  Naturally a shame because this is a place of reverence and worship but also because of the historical value of the frescos and artwork.  I’ll never be able to understand that kind of hate, evil and anger from any human being just as I’ll never be able to understand those traits in humans towards other humans.

The garden area of the Patriarch in

We took a tour of the church then went into the gardens and had coffee.  The Mother Superior came out and sat with us for a bit.  She was delightful.  As we were sitting there a lady approached with a folder.  Long story short – she is a Serbian lady who saw American Soldiers and wanted their assistance in reclaiming property that she says belongs to her.  She is probably right but there are offices established to assist her with her problem and the Soldiers can’t do anything about it.  It is a very sad situation but one that exists throughout the Province.

We left the Patriarch main grounds to the parking lot.  We spoke to the Italian Soldiers and asked if we could have photos taken in front of the tanks.  They were very agreeable to allow us to do that.  I imagine if we hadn’t been with American Soldiers that never would have happened.  Unfortunately I had a skirt on because we had been to holy sites that day so I decided it just wouldn’t be prudent for me to crawl up on the tank.  Darn it!

SGT Pelliccio and LTC Holliday in front of Italian tank outside of the Serbian Orthodox Patriarch in Pejë/Pec

Leta and an Italian Soldier in front of an Italian tank outside the gate to the Serbian Orthodox Patriarch in Pejë/Pec

We loaded up to in the vehicles and started driving back towards Prishtinë/Priština.  We continued conversations about this region of the Province and the destruction and loss of life that occurred here during the war.  It’s not a fun subject of conversation but it is reality.  Hearing it from the interpreters who were “there” when it happened makes the information more real to me.  It helps me to understand so much of the rhetoric that goes on between the ethnicities.  I feel I am fortunate to be able to hear all sides of the story since I have interpreter friends from all ethnic backgrounds within Kosovo, Serbian and the Balkans.  It allows me to assimilate all of the information and, by asking more questions, work to get to what I feel is the truth.

Once we got almost to Prishtinë/Priština we pulled over to change up riders.  LTC Holliday had to get back to Camp Bondsteel for a dinner with the CG so he needed Anthony to take Papa Dragan and his friend back to Kamenicë/Kamenica.  Dada, Kristy, Mario and I got in the vehicle with LTC H and the “guys” (except Mario) went with Anthony.  Once we got reloaded LTC H turned off on the “back road” to Ferizaj/Uroševac instead of going through Prishtinë/Priština where the main road is under construction and traffic crawls. 

We were chatting about the day, about the Educational Summit, about projects that are in process and others that need to be done.  The road was littered with huge potholes.  A small car in front of us bearing French license plates was wiggling back and forth in an attempt to miss all of the major potholes.  The driver was going at an exceptionally slow speed.  Well, remember back when I mentioned that LTC Holliday has served in Operation Iraqi Freedom and was used to driving REALLY fast there in order to escape enemy fire?  OK, no enemy fire today but this guy was really wearing on the LTC’s nerves.  He made several comments that had us rolling with laughter.  One comment was that he wished he had a cow catcher attached to the front of the vehicle.  Apparently one he and I even knew what a cow catcher was.  He finally got the opportunity to pass so we were able to move on from there.

As we approached the airport LTC Holliday pointed towards the right to a mountain and told us about how in times past the Yugoslav army built compartments inside the mountain that housed fighter jets.  When there was a need for jets they would open the doors to the compartments and the jets would taxi over to the airport (on the left hand side of the road) and take off.  As we drove a little further he told me to look back so that I could see the doors to one of the compartments inside the mountain.  VERY interesting!

At one point I made a comment about writing a book with stories about Kosovo, Civil Affairs and so many of the amazing experiences and facts I have learned in the past 3 years.  I related some of the stories I would write about in the book – some serious, many humorous.  Before I knew it we had made the book in to a movie and were discussing what actors would play what roles.  EVERYONE got on board and I had tears in my eyes from the discussion.  LTC Holliday insisted that he be played by Bruce Willis.  Naturally I had to ask him why he thought I would even include him in my book?  COL Iadimarco would be played by Danny DeVito.  That too, brought howls from everyone.  A PERFECT match for sure.  From the back I heard Mario (who I had just met for the first time that morning) ask, “who would play me?”  No one responded.  Dada offered that I should be played by Sigourney Weaver.  Well, LTC Holliday wasn’t having that at all.  He offered that I should be played by Kathy Bates.  I won’t get into the details of some of the conversation that followed but I will make one point – there is a HUGE difference between Sigourney Weaver and Kathy Bates not only in appearance but in their acting styles.  HELLO!

Once more I heard Mario ask, “Who would play me?”  And, again, no response from anyone.  LTC Holliday decided Dada should be played by Sigourney Weaver.  FINE!  Just FINE!  Anthony should be played by Matt Damon.  When I told Anthony that information later he didn’t agree AT ALL!  It was a lot of fun, lots of good laughs and made the time pass quickly.  Quite honestly between sitting in the vehicles, standing through the service, sitting during the lunch, etc I really was just ready to get out and WALK for a while.  Sure didn’t mention that to LTC Holliday as he probably would have pulled off to grant my wish!  HA!

A fantastic day.  I learned so much more about Serbian history and culture.  Additionally I was able to spend time with LTC Holliday to discuss projects.

Dani had picked Dr. Anderson up at Bolero and they had spent the day in Prishtinë/Priština going to a museum (I have no idea what kind) and at the University visiting with different personnel.  Dr. Anderson also spent time with INPO discussing both the Educational Conference and INPO’s current and future plans and status.  I was (as was he) thrilled that Dr. Anderson was able to spend the day with Dani and the INPO team. 

Dani and Dr. Anderson in discussion at the INPO office 

Dr. Anderson had checked out of the hotel and brought his things to the Ilazi’s for the night.  Since we have such an early start tomorrow to take him to the airport AND we cannot run the risk of having him locked in the hotel we thought this was a better idea.  I laughed so much as Dr. Anderson.  The Ilazi house is NOT a quiet place.  Constant action, conversation, tea, etc.  His eyes were rolling.  Add to that the touching, hugging and kissing.  Not something he has gotten used to by being holed up in his hotel room every night!  Welcome to MY Kosovo Dr.!

To bed around 2230 hours as tomorrow is another EARLY day – Dr. Anderson’s flight leaves Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia) at 0630 hours and we have to take him to the airport.

3 August 2006 – Thursday

0245 hours and the alarm was blaring!  Another early call but the last one on this trip.  Today we took Dr. Anderson to the airport in Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia) for his flight home.

Anthony and Dada picked Dr. Anderson and me up at 0400 hours.  Dr. Anderson has a flight out of Skopje, FYROM (Macedonia) at 06300 hours.  After lots of hugs and good-byes between Dr. Anderson and the Ilazi family we loaded up in the vehicle.  Pavil (the Macedonia interpreter) didn’t come.  Since Dada speaks Serbian - no worries there – many people in Macedonia speak Serbian from what I understand.  Most likely we won’t even need an interpreter but I always love having Dada with us. 

We weaved around as many pot holes are possible on the street out to the main highway and turned right going south towards the border.  It was still dark out so Dada and I leaned against each other in the back seat and attempted to nap.  I think she may have caught a wink or two but Dr. Anderson, Anthony and I were talking about the events of the past few days.  Traffic was minimal and we moved right along until we got to the site of the rock slide in Kacanik.  The highway is only one lane through the rock slide area.  The slide occurred last winter and I wonder if they will ever really get it all cleared, stabilized and both lanes open again?  We had to wait for oncoming traffic before we were allowed to move forward. 

We approached the checkpoint from Kosovo to Macedonia and there was a long line.  The car immediately at the checkpoint was loaded to the gills with house hold items strapped on the top, sides, etc.  Uh oh!  This could be a long wait.  After a few minutes I mentioned to Anthony that I thought I had seen military vehicles in the past us a different lane (to the right) that had no vehicles in it at the moment.  Anthony’s first trip to Macedonia was only last week when we picked up Dr. Anderson so, we weren’t really sure and didn’t want to seem as though we were being inconsiderate so we stayed in line where we were.  We sat and sat and sat.  I noticed a van with military plates on it go past us in the right lane.  Seemed to be a KBR van taking people to the airport.  Anthony and I discussed a bit more then he and Dada got out with our passports to walk to the checkpoint office and ask if we could use that lane.

When they got back to the vehicle Dada hopped in the vehicle, slammed the door and was furious.  When she finally calmed down enough to speak English she explained that the border officer had given her a difficult time because of her Yugoslavian passport.  Since Yugoslavia is no longer a country I guess he made some comment about that.  And, apparently a discussion occurred regarding whether or not we could have used the military road in lieu of going through the checkpoints.  The officer must have explained that Anthony, Dr. Anderson and I could have used the military road but if Dada had gotten “caught” using it she would have been arrested and taken to jail.  WHAT?  She an employee of the military as an interpreter so she has every right to be on that road.  Just more of the “issues” that keep this region from coming together as human beings.  I don’t blame Dada for being furious.  I’m actually glad I didn’t go with them.

Anyway, we moved over to the right hand lane and passed through the checkpoint.  As we rolled up to the checkpoint on the FYROM (Macedonia) Dada was still furious.  We showed our documents and were waved through.  We were running a bit later than we needed to be and hoped for good traffic conditions.   We only got behind one slow moving commercial truck during the drive through the mountainous area.  Anthony was able to pull around it at one point.  We pass through Skopje with ease and continued on towards the airport which is about 15-20 km south of Skopje.  We arrived later than we had hoped to but in time for Dr. Anderson to get checked in then go straight through security and on his way.

Anthony, Dada, and I got back in the vehicle and drove straight to Camp Bondsteel.  We arrived there around 0800 hours.  We were all dead tired after the early mornings and long days.  I had one of the Soldiers lock me in his room so I could take a nap.  My body was screaming at me for REST and I knew I’d be in big trouble if I ignored the call.  I have no idea where Anthony and Dada went.  I put earplugs in and literally fell on the bed, put a pillow over my head to block the light and was asleep before I even heard the door close and lock.  About 4 hours later I heard someone calling my name.  As it turned out I was so dead asleep I didn’t even hear them knocking on the door or calling my name as they originally entered the room. 

SFC Bumann and I went to the north DFAC (mess hall) for lunch.  He’s leaving for his 2 week R & R tomorrow and I wanted to be able to spend some time with him to thank him for all he has done to assist and support us on this trip.  I’m happy that he is going home to see his family. 

After lunch Anthony and I went to the TOC.  As I was standing in the security office awaiting my badge for entry COL C Smith came through the door on her way in to the TOC.  Once again my mouth engaged before my brain when I said, “Are you really going to let her in here?”  The minute that came out I figured I would be the one banned from the TOC.  Luckily COL Smith has been around me “enough” to know that I don’t always use my sense of humor at the best possible times – this being one of them.  We chuckled, exchanged greetings and small talk.  She went on through the office and out the door towards the courtyard for the TOC.  I got my badge and was admonished (which I deserved) by Anthony who was accompanying me then we made our way to the CA office in the TOC.

After we left the TOC we stopped at the PX for Anthony to buy something then we drove over to the CA office in North Town on Camp Bondsteel.  I called Peter Duffy at US AID and invited him to join us for lunch on Tuesday in Prishtinë/Priština.  Then I called Joe (OSCE) and Myrna (UNHCR) Flood to confirm plans to meet with them on Sunday.  Both meetings are to tie up loose ends before we leave for the US. 

Anthony, Kristy and I had decided to go to dinner at a restaurant named Hollywood.  We had never been there before but had heard wonderful things about the site.  It is located high above Ferizaj/Uroševac with, as we are told, beautiful views of both the valley and Duke.  Duke is a mountain in the Shar Mountains that is absolutely gorgeous.  Duke, of course, is not the “official” name but the name the Soldiers have given it.  Anthony and I picked up Kristy, we got directions and began the drive.  OK, directions are a bit of a challenge in Kosovo since there are no road signs because most roads/streets don’t seem to have names.  After a few wrong turns we found the sign we were looking for on the side of a building to direct us to Hollywood.  The drive was another of those “interesting” ones.  We drove through at least 2 former Serbian enclaves that looked as though the war had just occurred yesterday.  I know I’ve said this time and again but I’ll never understand how these people expect to move forward when they continue to harbor old memories with entire villages of destruction still standing.  Seems to me to be salt in the wound.  I have no idea if there are political reasons for these destroyed homes and buildings to remain as they are.  I don’t know if it is impossible to remove the rubble due to costs, not knowing who the owners are or any number of reasons such as that.  But, in my mind it’s been 7 years and they will never be able to put this behind them with constant reminders such as this.

We finally made our way to the restaurant and the information we had been given about the views from the location had not been exaggerated.  As we rounded the final curve we found ourselves in a dirt road in the middle of a beautiful meadow.  When I looked in one direction it seemed as if I could reach out and touch Duke.  When I looked in the opposite direction I could see the entire valley, Ferizaj/Uroševac, Camp Bondsteel and beyond.  It was a spectacular view.  And, it was about 20 degrees cooler.

Photo of Duke from meadow near Hollywood Restaurant

  Photo of Kristy and SGT Pelliccio in front of Duke from meadow near Hollywood Restaurant

Dinner wasn’t so great but being able to relax and visit with Anthony and Kristy in this peaceful setting was better than dinner anyway. 

We made our way back down the mountain on the winding and rocky road.  As we got back to the first village the children waved and shouted out greetings to us as we drove through.  When we got into Ferizaj/Uroševac it was beginning to get dark.  I noticed young children, men and women with freshly baked loaves of break making their way along the streets.  I knew they were on their way home.  I also knew that for many of them the bread they were carrying would be their dinner as well as breakfast the next morning.  Many will be lucky to have either cheese or roasted peppers with their bread.  While the concept of family here makes me wish for that back home the idea that they seldom, if ever, have bountiful meals always makes me sad and, admittedly, a bit guilty.  Yet, no one has ever complained to me about their “lack” of anything.  I know there are complainers – I’d be one of them.  But I have yet to hear it.

We stopped for coffee then Anthony took us to the Ilazis.  It’s been a long day for he and Kristy – neither of them took a nap.  Anthony came in for a bit to visit and have hot tea then left.

Kristy and I had been invited to the soccer field at 2200 hours.  She was going to play and I was going to watch.  We got there around 2130 hours and a few people had arrived.  As we sat chatting the others showed up. 

An interesting story about this particular night at the soccer field.  I have a young male friend in Kosovo (early 20s) who is Albanian by birth but truly one of those who feels he is simply a human being.  Several months ago he was invited to attend a multi ethnic event and went.  While there he met a young Serbian girl (18 years old) and they formed a friendship at the event.  After the event they, apparently, worked to stay in touch.  I say “worked” because it is difficult if not next to impossible for an Albanian and Serbian to freely interact in most of Kosovo.  Over time they have sneaked off and met each other – having picnics and such.  On this night she was in Ferizaj/Uroševac from her village about 40 minutes away.  He came up to me at the soccer field and asked if I would stay there until he came back.  I had no idea what he was up to but, of course, I said I would.  During the soccer game he came up to me very quietly and said he had someone he wanted me to meet.  In the shadows behind where I was sitting stood the girl with a floppy hat pulled down over her face.  She was obviously very nervous.  I got up from my seat and walked back towards the alley where she was standing and we were introduced.  She didn’t dare show her face or even speak to me for fear of someone recognizing her as Serbian.  My heart broke for her and for them.  How unfair!  It was a true kick in the gut for me.  I have met this young man’s family.  They are very progressive, very accepting and very open about the situation in Kosovo.  The idea that these two young adults met at an event that encourages multi ethnic interaction and acceptance along with the fact that they have to hide their feelings towards one another is so sad.  The building blocks are there but reality isn’t.  What an absolute shame.  In a bit she did begin to talk some and he interpreted for us.  Before long she shrank back in to the dark and they left.  It’s been a long time since I felt so sad and so helpless.

4 August 2006 – Friday

I didn’t sleep well last night.  I kept tossing and turning wondering about my young friends (the Albanian and Serbian).  I wondered all night if he had been able to get her back home without getting caught.  If he gets caught he could be hurt or worse.  Holy Cow!  This is just too much and WRONG!  It is so refreshing that the younger generations want to get along.  It is so frustrating that too many of the older generations are holding on to political issues.  Granted – many of the political events that have occurred were brutal, cruel and tragic.  There is no way to deny that.  However, in order for this region to move on they must find a way to put that behind them – NOT to forget it – but to put it behind them.  Even these two young adults were refugees during the war.  He ended up in Portugal.  His family stayed in some big building with cots set out in row after row after row.  I have no idea where she went.  Both of them saw burnings, bombings, etc.  His father is an amputee.  Yet, they are able to move forward.  They, like so many of the young adults in Kosovo are the hope for the future.  I admire them and love them for who they are.

Anthony picked Kristy and me up around 0930 hours.  We went to Caritas Kosovo.  Jacob Sabatini had invited us to meet him around 1000 hours for a meeting then to go to lunch.   Caritas is a Catholic organization that is doing wonderful work throughout Kosovo across both ethnic and religious lines.  I met Jacob in December 2005 and have stayed in touch with him since.  Anthony, who is a very devote Catholic, has developed an incredibly working relationship with Jacob and Caritas.  We discussed several projects then Jacob said that he would like to take us to lunch – in Gjilan/Gnjilane.  Oh!  That’s about an hour ride from Ferizaj/Uroševac.  Anthony and I just looked at each other and Anthony raised his eyebrows.  But, we went.  On the way we stopped at an intersection and picked up Demush Zefi.  He is a reporter from Bota Sot and a member of the Parish in Ferizaj/Uroševac.  I’ve known him since my very first visit to Kosovo.  He is a very kind and quiet man whose stories of his past has had me in shock and tears.  He wrote an article for the paper after my visit in July/Aug 2005 and won a prize for it.  I have a copy but it is in Albanian and I have no idea what it says.

We had lunch at Planet Restaurant while continuing to have more discussions on projects in which Caritas is working as well as ideas on which we may be able to work together.  We drove back to Ferizaj/Uroševac and dropped of Jacob and Mr. Zefi.  Anthony, Kristy, and I went to Camp Bondsteel and he dropped me off at the CA office with MAJ Werbansky.  Anthony, Pavil and Dada have to go to Vrbovaz to assist in escorting a bus load of young Serbian adults to the border crossing towards Skopje.  A group from the Belgrade Stock Exchange is sponsoring the trip for these young adults to spend some time in Greece.  Because they are Serbian it is not safe for them to move outside of their enclave through Albanian areas.  Additionally KFOR wants to be sure there are no “issues” at the border.  I couldn’t go because I had been invited for dinner with COL Cindy Smith who is in charge of Civil Military Operations on this rotation.  LTC Holliday is supposed to join us if he gets back from Prizren in time.  He and SSG Vowell and MAJ Chelone had a CIMIC meeting in Prizren today.  Golly – my “team” is scattered all over the Province today!  Because the timing is so unsure LTC Holliday has asked the MAJ Werbiansky go to the dinner in his place.

Kristy made plans for dinner with two of the other CA guys.  MAJ Werbiansky and I spent some time chatting about projects and issues before walking over towards the North DFAC where we were to meet COL Smith for dinner.  I really like MAJ Werbiansky.  She’s definitely interested in doing great things and seems very dedicated to the tasks.  We were early so we stopped outside the DFAC for coffee.  As we were sitting there I noticed two civilian guys in University of Memphis t shirts.  I said hello to them and they returned the greeting.  I told them I was from Memphis and they couldn’t believe it.  I guess they are with KBR or ITT or some civilian contractor on Bondsteel.  It was interesting to be so far from home and see someone from Memphis even though I didn’t know them.

COL Smith arrived on time.  I introduced her and MAJ Werbiansky then we went in for dinner.  We got our food then followed COL Smith to a table.  There were a few officers sitting at the table next to us.  They were top brass in the Task Force.  COL Smith introduced us to them and mentioned that CG Owens should be coming along soon.  I panicked!  (Refer to the posting of 22 July 2006 when I embarrassed myself in front of the CG).  As luck would have it he must either have had other plans for dinner or heard that I was there.  He didn’t show up while we were eating and talking.  Whew!

After we had finished eating I called LTC Holliday and told him that we were waiting for him – that we hadn’t eaten yet.  I know – shame on me for doing that to an officer.  Can’t help myself.  I TOTALLY respect LTC Holliday but………he’s aware of my “sense of humor” and he’s pulled a few on me, too.  After he went on and on for about a minute telling me that he was diverted to the border crossing between Kosovo and FYROM (Macedonia) and that we should have eaten, blah blah blah, I stopped him and told him that we HAD already eaten and I was teasing him.  He promised to get even.

LTC Holliday, SSG Vowell and MAJ Chelone were diverted to the border crossing because of problems.  Always problems!  Seems that the border agents wanted to impose some huge tariff either on the bus or the number of people on the bus and KFOR had no intention of allowing that to happen because it wasn’t necessary by law.  As it turned out the border personnel “misunderstood” when it was all said and done.

  Pavil (Macedonian/Serbian Interpreter), Serbian Orthodox Priest, Dada (Serbian Interpreter) and SSG Vowell at border crossing working through the details.

MAJ Werbiansky walked me back to the CA office.  We called Kristy who was still on Camp Bondsteel with one of the other Civil Affairs Soldiers.  They drove over to pick me up and he took us to our car outside the gate.  Kristy and I got in our car and drove in to Ferizaj/Uroševac where we split up.  I went for coffee alone to relax and regroup.  She went to check her email then to play soccer.  I kept the car as she was going to either find a ride or get a cab.  I was home by 2130 hours.  Not sure when she crawled in to bed since the soccer game didn’t begin until 2300 hours.  Oh to be so young again!

5 August 2006 – Saturday

This morning began like so many mornings in Kosovo.  I was awakened to a cacophony of barn yard animal sounds and dogs barking.  These sounds are now a familiar “good morning” to me when I am in Kosovo.  Comforting.  The sun was shining and the sky was clear blue.  Duke was lookin’ good as he stood guard above the valley.

I didn’t get in any hurry to get up.  When it occurred to me that we did have power a spark lit under me and I dashed into the shower.  Once I finished I woke Kristy up then I went for hot tea and chit chat with the family.  I decided to participate in a bit of multi tasking.  When I was here in December 2005 I made pies for Christmas.  The Ilazi’s had never had apple, cherry, pecan or mince meat pies.  So, this time I brought the necessary ingredients to make apple, peach and cherry pies.  Mrs. Ilazi LOVES cherry ANYTHING!  I mixed the ingredients for the crust and rolled in out, put the bottom crusts in the pans then made the fillings and poured them in.  Mrs. Ilazi and the daughters all watched with great interest and asked lots of questions.  I rolled out the top crusts and put them on then crimped the edges.  LOTS of questions about that.  I had reserved a bit of crust so that I could carve out the shape of an apple, a peach and a bunch of cherries to put on top of each pie.  Well, they just thought that was the most ingenious thing they had every seen!  It truly is the little things in life that make big impacts don’t you think?

Kristy came down about the time I was placing the pies in the oven.  She and Adelina (youngest daughter) have really spent a lot of time together since we arrived.  As a matter of fact, Kristy has been sleeping in Adelina’s room instead of sharing with me.  It’s been great for Adelina and Kristy, who has several sisters.  When Kristy was deployed here she had met the Ilazi family and had gotten to know all of them.  She has missed being able to see them.  Every time I have come to Kosovo they have all asked about Kristy.  They didn’t know I was bringing her with me on this trip.  Anyway, Adelina reminded us that there were more boxes of cake mix and cans of icing so she asked if she and Kristy could make cupcakes.  Of course!  So they did and it was a lot of fun.

Kristy and Adelina made a run to Ben Af to pick up some items we needed for dinner tonight to go with the Flia (see below).  Now, I love Kristy.  She truly is an amazing woman.  She is intelligent and solid and funny and and and.  But……admittedly she is NOT a cook!  So, I made a list.  We went over it to make sure she understood what I was needing.  It’s one thing to send a “rookie” to the grocery store in the US.  It’s another to send one to the grocery store in a foreign country.  On the list I had written lettuce for the salad tonight.  Kristy wanted specific instructions for the lettuce.  I explained about how Romaine would be my preference but the Romaine I had seen at Ben Af earlier in the week was not so good.  We went on about different types of lettuce and my final choice was iceberg lettuce.  I explained it would be in a tight head, etc.   Well………when those 2 came back and we began unpacking the items I laughed out loud.  They had purchased 4 of the largest heads of cabbage I have EVER seen in my life!  No worries – Mrs. Ilazi was happy to have it to cook later.  We made a stop at another store and got lettuce.

Mrs. Ilazi began to make the batter for a dish called Flia.  I’m not sure if I’ve spelled that correctly.  It is a dish indigenous to that region of the world from what I am told and is one that is labor intensive yet loved by most.  I hate for the Ilazis to go to trouble for us but this was one time I acquiesced.  I stepped out on the balcony overlooking the strip of land they call their back yard.  I noticed Mr. Ilazi was working over an open fire that held a mound of hot coals.  On top of the coals was a huge “lid”.  Mrs. Ilazi, who had gone outside, was pouring the batter in this “spirally” pattern that left openings as wide as there were strips of the batter.  Kristy and I needed to go so as we were on our way out we stopped by to see the process.  The batter is poured in a pan that is, literally, about 2 feet in diameter.  Then the “lid” is put on the pan and loaded with hot coals.  While that is “cooking” another lid is prepared.  After a time the lid on the pan with the batter is removed, more batter is poured in the “openings” that were left the prior time and the new lid is put on top with fresh hot coals.  After that process a mixture of butter and grease is spread on the layer and the process starts all over again.  Hmmmmm.  Healthy is one issue.  Digestion is quite another to consider.  We left as the process continued.  When we returned later we discovered she had made not one but TWO of these monsterous concoctions. 

 Mrs. Ilazi mixing the batter one more time before she pours it in the pan to cook.

Mrs. Ilazi pouring the batter in the pan to cook

Mrs. Ilazi spreading the butter and grease mixture on a layer of Flia (sp?)

Mr. Ilazi tending the fire and coals with a lid waiting to be used

 Cooking the Flia 

After a morning of baking Kristy and I loaded up and drove downtown to meet with INPO over lunch.  They have had several “counseling” sessions with Dr. Anderson and he and I have discussed several “issues” we feel could be detrimental to them down the road.  I wanted to both congratulate them on several excellent projects they have finished or are still working or and discuss some of the concerns we have for them.  It was a great meeting.  I reiterated what Dr. Anderson had discussed with them – they need to find more of a focus on projects rather than taking on everything that comes their way.  Additionally, they each need to learn to take some time off.  These young men and women have been working 7 days a week for 2 to 3 years now.  That is no exaggeration.  So, we established a policy of rotating days off.

We had invited several of the Civil Affairs Soldiers to the Ilazis for dinner tonight as well as Dada, Mya (another Serbian interpreter) and a couple of the INPO members.  We had the Flia, a Greek Salad, stuffedp, cupcakes, the cherry and peach pies and a shot of Rakia.  Well, everyone didn’t have the Rakia of course.  The stuffed peppers were made by Kusha’s mom.  They were heavenly.  They are made along the lines of those we make in the US but the peppers themselves are different.  VERY hot and flavorful.  OK, I confess – I had THREE.  I know – shame on me!  They are small, though!

As we were getting ready to eat LTC Holliday noticed that Mr. and Mrs. Ilazi were no where to be found.  He refused to eat until they joined us.  Hurray!  I’ve fought that battle so many times and lost.  Mr. Ilazi disappears down the street and Mrs. Ilazi disappears into her bedroom when it is time to eat and we have people over.  ARGH!!!  So, they were rounded up, we said a prayer and everyone made a line to serve themselves.  We chatted and told stories and laughed while we were eating.  Mr. and Mrs. Ilazi laughed along with us.  It was so darn good to see them enjoying themselves.  It was nice having the CA guys there.  We all ate and visited for a bit then they went back to Camp Bondsteel, Fitori (oldest daughter) and I cleaned the kitchen, had some tea and went to bed.

6 August 2006 – Sunday

The time is flying by.  I cannot believe I leave in 2 days.  We’ve accomplished so much yet I wonder if we could have done more or better on this trip.  I suppose not but I always “wonder.”  I am confident that we have accomplished many great things.  We have made contact with several high level individuals who seem to be interested in moving forward with us.  We have given the administrators and teachers of the third largest school district hope and the promise of a new day.  We have experienced cultural moments that I never dreamed of in my life.  Those experiences help to fill in so many of the “blanks” about what Kosovo is about and also help to better “explain” so many of the issues that seem to be keeping the “sides” apart.

Things moved slowly around the house this morning.  No alarm clocks.  No rush to get to a meeting.  We had scheduled today as a “down day” in anticipation of 2 things: 1) we might have to “squeeze” someone in for a meeting or 2) we might just be worn out.  Luckily it was reason #2 and not #1.  Daily life in Kosovo is a bit, well, interesting.  It is a predominantly Muslim country yet Friday isn’t celebrated by many as the Holy Day.  So, Sunday isn’t really celebrated as a Holy Day for most.  The shops and businesses are open 7 days a week.  The governmental offices are closed on Saturday and Sunday yet some governmental people work on weekends.  Interesting and confusing at best. 

The good news is that we did have electricity most of the day.  Whew!

Kristy and I drove to the parking lot across from Gate 1 at Camp Bondsteel and parked.  SGT Pelliccio (Anthony), SSG Vowell (Ed) and LTC Holliday (Eric) picked us up and we drove to Gjilan/Gnjilane to relax with Joe and Myrna Flood.  Anthony, Kristy and I were in the lead vehicle.  We had invited Dada to come but she needed some time to herself and I completely understood that.  Anyway, I was pleased that we were able to drive right to their house.  The last time we came to their house we actually came from a different direction and were “lead” there by OSCE employees from the OSCE office.  Again, remember – no street names or signs.  You just “turn where we saw that big group of chickens last time” or some crazy memory like that.

Joe and Myrna came out to greet us.  It was another warm day so after all the hellos and hugs we decided to sit inside this time in lieu of outside.  I’m sure it made a big difference for the men in uniform not sitting in the direct sun.  Myrna had made brushetta (some of the best I’ve EVER had) and bean dip and chips.  She also served smoked Salmon that a friend of theirs had brought to them on a recent visit.  It was delicious!  Kristy and I (OK, Kristy doesn’t cook) took chicken wings, tomatoes and mozzarella (sorry Anthony – I don’t remember the REAL name), an apple pie and chocolate chip cookie bars.  Ah!  Almost like being at home!  We nibbled most of the afternoon.

Joe and Myrna told a few more stories.  Ed told a LOT of stories.  Eric told a few stories.  Jokes were shared.  We all laughed and laughed and laughed.  It was a wonderful time.  Hated to leave but Joe and Myrna both had some work to do.  The Soldiers ALWAYS have work to do.

On the way back to Camp Bondsteel we got behind several wedding convoys.  One was just turning out onto the main highway and LTC Holliday (in the lead) stopped to allow them all out together (customary to do.   Well, one of the cars in the convoy decided WE should be in it so they waved and waited for us to join.  I sat in the window of our vehicle just as the locals do and waved Anthony’s hat/cover in the air.  We pulled over at one point to let them go on their way.  When we got to the spot where they had stopped for the celebration they were on the side of the road waving and calling to us to come and join them.  Uh, sorry, not dressed for the occasion but thanks anyway.  Actually it was more of – we don’t have 14 hours to spare!  It was, however, very kind of them to invite us.  Unlike some places I know – they didn’t invite us in anticipation of a gift.  They truly invited us because they wanted us there because we are Americans.  Another Ahhhhhh – it’s nice to be loved and not hated for being an American in a hazardous duty zone!

Kristy and I went on to Camp Bondsteel so Anthony had to stop and sign us in.  For those of you who have been reading these journals from the beginning you may have noticed that I haven’t written much about going in and out of Camp Bondsteel this time.  I suppose the allure has worn off but I can assure you – nothing has changed.  I get badge #49 and IF someone has made the mistake of giving it to anyone else then I get badge #13.  I had to wear badge #13 twice this time.  About half way through this trip one of the supervisors at Gate 1 mentioned that someone really should figure out how to get me a badge so I don’t have to go through all the paperwork each time.  A couple of the guys have the paperwork started before we even get in the office.  And, on 3 or 4 occasion when we were leaving the guard would walk out towards us to exchange our ID for their badges!  How cool is that?  There are the occasional cat calls (at my age I’ll TAKE THEM) as well as the “search her good” comments.  I never have a moment anymore when I don’t feel part of the team.

After bumming around saying hello to various people while Anthony checked his email, etc. the three of us made our way over to the North DFAC for dinner.  Can’t leave Kosovo without one more FANTASTIC meal (tongue in cheek)!  And, sure as heck gonna use all of the meal vouchers after making an idiot of myself in front of the CG early in the trip over meal vouchers.

Anthony drove us back out of Gate 1.  We stopped to turn in our badges and say good bye.  We’ll be back on Bondsteel Tuesday for sure but may not see any of these guys that day.  Miss ... some of … them already!

Kristy and I stopped by the Ilazis for a little bit then we went downtown for the soccer game at 2200 hours.  As usual, they all played.  I sat watch over everyone’s possessions and laughed. 

7 August 2006 – Monday

This morning was VERY stressful.  Not the early morning get up, shower, etc.  It became stressful, thanks to me, once we got to our first meeting.

Anyway, Anthony and Dada picked me up around 0830 hours.  We drove to the municipal building in Ferizaj/Uroševac for one last meeting with DMP Imeri, etal.  Kristy took the car that we had borrowed from the municipality to have it washed and filled with gas.  She met us there later.  As we were sitting there (Anthony, Dada, Dani, Mr. Imeri and I) drinking coffee with cigarette smoke swirling about us (smoking is a national past time and a huge social event in Kosovo) I asked Mr. Imeri a question about which I needed to hear his answer.  Keep in mind I make it a point NOT to be political in Kosovo even though I definitely have opinions.  Being political is not productive for our organization so……I consciously stay away from that.  But…I still had to know.  With the status talks on-going in Vienna regarding Kosovo I wanted to know how Mr. Imeri felt.

For those of you who don’t know about the status talks there are basically (in my words) three options on the table and in no particular order:

1)                  Kosovo will remain part of Serbia but will be given autonomy.

2)                  Kosovo will gain full independence

3)                  The international community will make a decision

Now, it is my understanding that there has been little or no progress in the status talks yet the UN wants it to all be decided by end of 2006.  Hmmm.  Seems that may not happen.  And, it is my understanding that the politicos in Belgrade want an option #4 – that Kosovo has always, should always and WILL always belong to Serbia.  Period, end of discussion.

Since Mr. Imeri has always been very open with me and has always been more than willing to work with all ethnic backgrounds on projects with us I really thought he would tell me that he was in favor of option #1.  Oh was I wrong.  He’s a very strong supporter of option #2.  As he talked and Dani interpreted I could see Dada turning red and rising up out of her seat but she stayed quiet.  Mr. Imeri went through the history (from his perspective) of Kosovo from hundreds of years up to the present – through political leaders all along the way.  More than I bargained for.  One of my first “lessons” about Kosovo is that depending on whether you ask someone of Albanian heritage or someone of Serbian heritage you WILL get a different history lesson.

After about 15 to 20 minutes of me listening to Dani interpret what Mr. Imeri was saying Dada couldn’t take it any longer.  She chimed in.  Now I was beginning to get uncomfortable.  Not because they were having the exchange but because I should NOT have asked this question in front of Dada.  Yes, she’s able to “take it”.  She’s heard it from “the other side” time and time again.  My point is that I just wanted to hear what Mr. Imeri thought and I didn’t want this to get into a heated discussion.  Too late for that.  Anthony looked at me like he could kill me and I didn’t blame him.  FINALLY Kristy came in and I was able to break the conversation.  We returned the keys for the car, thanked them profusely for allowing us to use it and made our way out since we had to get on the road.

When we got in the vehicle Dada was fuming and steaming and ranting and raging about the “facts.”  Again, not that I didn’t want to hear her - it’s just that we leave tomorrow and I wanted today to be peaceful, productive and fun.  MY FAULT and no one else to blame.  After about 10 minutes I put my hand on Dada’s arm and told her that as much as I understood her I really needed to put this aside for now – that we weren’t going to change anything today and we had other “fish to fry.”  Eventually she calmed down as we drove up through the mountains towards the Serbian enclave of Shtërpcë/Strpce.  Even though it was a cloudy day the drive was gorgeous.  I’ve been looking forward to this trip the entire time I’ve been in Kosovo.  The only time I’ve been to Shtërpcë/Strpce was in July 2005 and it was dark when we made the drive.  The road winds up through the canyons along side a mountain stream.  Ah!

As we were driving Anthony got a phone call from Mr. Fernandez, the political advisor to KFOR.  I’m not sure why Mr. Fernandez called but glad he did.  We were on our way to Shtërpcë/Strpce for a couple of reasons but one was to “look” at homes to consider renting as housing for PTP personnel who are in and out of Kosovo over the next couple of years.  There are no real estate agents or rental agents in Kosovo.  We were just going to stop and start asking around.  Mr. Fernandez, however, knows the right people and he gave Anthony the name of a gentleman who could assist us.  Dada actually had met this man and had his phone number with her.  When Anthony hung up the phone from Mr. Fernandez Dada called the gentleman and made arrangements for us to meet him and his wife at their house and go from there.

OK, now we get to directions.  FIRST of all – Dada couldn’t find her way out of a paper bag and SHE is the one who got the directions.  Oops!  Second of all, need I remind you again that there are no street names, signs, etc. in Kosovo?  So, Dada remembered being told to go to the blue building with the hotel sign on it and turn, ah, left she thinks.  This is going to be an adventure for sure!

We drove past the checkpoint, through a village and on up the mountain.  We never saw a blue building with a sign on it.  We turned around to back track.  At one point Dada got out of the vehicle to ask directions.  I followed her in to a store.  We were all a bit hungry so I picked up a few snacks.  When I attempted to pay with Euros the lady told Dada she only took Serbian dinar.  Okey dokey!  How many more types of currency am I going to need on this trip?  The lady was VERY kind.  She went over and picked up a few more of the same types of items I had until my “purchase” equaled the amount of Euros I had presented.  Turns out she takes Euros but didn’t’ have change.

Back in the vehicle and up a different road toward the summit of the mountain.  We kept driving and talking – talking and driving until we realized we just must have missed it AGAIN.  At this point no one had a cell signal to call.  So, we turned around and started back down the mountain.  As we rounded a curve we saw a goat herder and his flock (?) on either side of the road.  The goats were feasting on the tender green mountain grass.  Dada called for Anthony to stop, hopped out and began to pet a goat while talking to the goat herder.  At this point all I can hear in my head is Julie Andrews singing “High on a hill stood a lonely goat herd……….”  Ack!  It’s back again!

Dada called for Anthony to park the vehicle in one of the meadows and for us to follow them (Dada and the goat herder).  So we parked, locked up and sprinted to catch up with them as they disappeared into a patch of trees.  As I approached the trees I heard running water.  As I entered the small opening I saw the most beautiful mountain stream with slick stepping stones OR, thank goodness, a footbridge.  I chose the footbridge.  We continued on up a very rocky and narrow roadway, around a little bend and sure enough – the lady of the house was out in the yard waiting for us.  We thanked the goat herder who nodded his response and Dada made the introductions.  Turns out both of them speak English.  I really don’t want to use their names even though it may be OK but after hearing a couple of the stories he told I worry about his safety when he is outside of his Serbian enclave. 

We went inside to meet him and were served tea.  We chatted for a few a while.  I learned that he was a teacher as were his parents when they were living.  I learned that he had attended college in the United States.  He was a very kind and gentle man.  I also noticed that he seemed a bit frail for his age but, who wouldn’t be living in the conditions in which they live here.  Their home was small but amazingly cozy and welcoming.  Even more so than most of the homes I’ve visited in Kosovo.  While they may not be new and decorated and fully furnished all of the homes in Kosovo seem welcoming.  This one just seemed to have something “extra” within it and I never did figure it out.  We were all very hungry so we invited them to be our guests at lunch and they accepted.

They had a vehicle and decided to drive it.  The rest of us began the walk back down the rutted and rocky “road”, across the foot bridge and to our vehicle.  Just as we got to the foot bridge we saw them slowly crossing the stream on the slippery rocks.  What a life!  I could live here I think.  Peaceful, quiet, beautiful. 

We followed them back down the mountain and to a restaurant that was owned by a friend or acquaintance of theirs.  Mr. and Mrs. took the seats at the ends of the table.  I was seated to the right of him.  I leave out the part about ordering and the food and all – it’s not important.  What is important are two of the stories he told me as we were sitting there.

The first story took my breath away.  Back in 1999 he lived in and taught school in Prishtina.  As things began to escalate leading up to the NATO bombing he decided it wasn’t safe to live there anymore – that he should return to Shtërpcë/Strpce.  He attempted time and again to find a vehicle so that he could move his possessions.  He would find a vehicle and begin to load it.  He would go to his apartment to get more items and come out to find that the tires had been cut and the vehicle wasn’t drivable.  This occurred several times. 

He attempted to find a way to get his children out of Kosovo.  His mother and he sister had become US citizens prior to this time.  His aunt was living in America.  He found that it was not possible to get them to the US even under the conditions in which they were living.  I have forgotten where he said they ended up but they were all safe in the end.

One day he left his apartment to go on a quick errand.  As he was returning he was attacked and brutally beaten mostly about the head and face.  His skull was cracked open.  He was left to die on the sidewalk.  He was in and out of consciousness when a young (teenage) man found him and assisted him back to his apartment.  He called Mr. Fernandez who was a friend of his.  Mr. Fernandez called the British Army contingent who airlifted him to safety and medical care.  Obviously he survived.  However, most of his possessions were lost.   He did eventually make it to Shtërpcë/Strpce where he lives today in, basically, seclusion within the enclave there.  On occasion he does travel to Mitrovica for medical care.  Many Serbs do not feel safe traveling through predominantly Albanian areas but, I’m told, it is not as big of an issue as it once was.  However, in order to get from Shtërpcë/Strpce to Mitrovica he must travel approximately 2 to 2 ½ hours through Albanian areas.

A few months ago he was taken to the hospital in Mitrovica.  From his description he suffered from a stroke.  It was evident that one side of his body was weaker than the other but he talked about how he goes for a walk in the mountains every day and that he is getting stronger and stronger.  He is an amazingly positive and engaging man.  Very soft spoken but when he speaks he has something to say for sure.  He is NOT bitter and makes that point often.  He does regret the state of affairs in the area but is hopeful for the future.  He regrets that the schools don’t have more to offer the students at this time and wishes something could be done.

His next story was just down right sad and disgusting.  His mother had been living in Prishtinë/Priština.  She became ill and he brought her to Shtërpcë/Strpce so that he could take care of her.  Eventually she passed away very peacefully at his home.  He called for the undertaker to come and remove the body.  When they arrived he was told that they could not take the body because she was not a citizen of Shtërpcë/Strpce therefore she could not be buried in the cemetery in Shtërpcë/Strpce.  What?  You’ve got to be kidding me!  He went on and on about all of the phone calls he made in an attempt to get someone to come and remove the body from his home and make plans for the burial.  In the end he had no choice but to call KFOR who got involved and assisted him in making sure his mother got a proper burial.  Even now I find that I am shaking my head at this. 

After lunch and listening to him talk about his life and the amazing journey on which he has traveled I told him that we were looking for a house to rent.  I gave him the details and told him we were in no hurry – that we were just beginning to look.  He was more than happy to take on that task for us and I was grateful.  I cannot wait to see this couple again.

We did the photo thing, said our good byes and began our way back to Ferizaj/Uroševac.  The sun had come out and the drive back down the mountain was very enjoyable.  I shared the stories I had been told with the others.  Apparently Anthony had heard the story of the beating from Mr. Fernandez but the others were just as shocked and amazed as I.

We stopped at Camp Bondsteel to pack and prepare for shipping the “excess” that we had accumulated during the trip.  Actually, most of what I shipped was “excess” that I had brought with me.  I did NOT want to get charged AGAIN for excess baggage!  We stopped by the main post office to mail them and ran in to a couple of the PSYOPS guys.  Chatted with them while we were waiting.

Tonight we took the Ilazi family to dinner in celebration of Mr. and Mrs. Ilazi’s 25th wedding anniversary.  Kristy and I had done some shopping when we were in Gjilan/Gnjilane one day and presented them with the gifts.  We gave Mr. Ilazi a new set of clothes.  He has so few and I’ve never known his size.  I had the girls sneak in to his room one day and find the sizes for us.  He was very pleased yet very humble.  It was a great evening and I was so happy to share it with all of them.

So, tomorrow is departure day.  Honestly, this has been the longest I have been in Kosovo and I’m ready to go home.  I’m a weenie.  I miss the creature comforts.  Most of all – I miss my quiet time.  NONE of that here.  NONE!

8 August 2006 – Tuesday

DEPARTURE DAY

Woke to another beautiful day in Kosovo.  I quietly finished packing and began to sneak my bags downstairs.  I finally went to the family room for tea and good byes.  I had told the family for the past 2 days that there would be no tears this time.  They really struggled and Mrs. Ilazi teared up a couple of timed.  All in all it wasn’t so bad and I was thankful for that.  Kristy came down and had some tea with us.  Then Anthony came to pick us up.  It’s become a bit of “tradition” to make one last visit to Camp Bondsteel the morning of departure.  It allows me the opportunity to say one last thank you and good bye to those who have been so supportive while I have been here.

We loaded up, gave and received lots of hugs and kisses then got in the vehicle and drove away.  We made a stop at the INPO office.  Kristy had told them we would come by to say our good byes to them, too.  I ran across the street to the market and bought a huge assortment of junk food and drinks for them.  When I returned we spent a few minutes with them then got underway to Camp Bondsteel.  About 2 blocks down the road I realized I had left something at the INPO office.  Anthony grumbled and turned around.  I ran in and found all of them literally scarfing down the food.  My heart sank.  They all jumped up and we all pretended that I hadn’t seen them eating as if they hadn’t in a day or so – and they probably hadn’t.  I picked up what I had left, one last round of hugs and made my way out.  When I got to the vehicle I was teary eyed myself.  Ugh! 

We stopped at Gate 1 and got out for one last trip to get the proverbial visitor’s badge.  I took some candy to the Force Protection guys.  I gave it to the supervisor.  As we rolled forward for security check the supervisor was walking out to share the candy.  He’s such a nice guy.  One of the guys in the tower yelled down to say hello and I yelled back good-bye.  “Aw” he said, “you aren’t leaving us are you?”  Nice to be loved!  Anthony stopped the vehicle and got out to clear his gun.  Kristy and I got out to “assume the position” and be searched.  They were just about to change shifts and one of the guys coming on shift hopped out of their van and yelled, “Check her good!”  I, frankly, find it interesting that Kristy has her military ID and yet they search her just like they do me.  Anyway, gun clearing and body searching finished, good byes said and off we rolled to the PX area and the shops where civilians are allowed to shop.

I was interested in buying a shirt from the embroidery shop so we stopped there first.  I ordered a sweatshirt.  Anthony will pick it up for me and either hang on to it until I come back or ship it to me.  Thanks Anthony.  We ran in to the PX for a minute for Anthony to pick up something.  Kristy and I found t-shirts with Camp Bondsteel on them.  She picked hers up to buy it (since she can) and I “sort of “indicated that I’d like one so she grabbed it for me.  Thanks Kristy!  From the PX we ambled over to the coffee shop.  Anthony gave me his cell to try to call LTC Holliday.  I had been told that he had a busy schedule.  Leaving Kosovo without saying good bye to him would be sad but…he does have a job to do and saying good bye to me isn’t a priority.  He answered and asked where we were.  I told him and he said he would be down in a bit.

Kristy and I ordered milkshakes.  Anthony and Ed got lemonade.  We were sitting there chatting and one of the LMT’s I had met earlier in the week walked up to say hello.  I mentioned we were leaving and we exchanged “nice to meet you’s” and “take care.”  Ed had brought me some paperwork I needed to bring home with me for work on a project we are in the middle of.  I was happy to get to see him before I left. He is an amazing Soldier and an incredible person.  I’m happy to have gotten to know him and look forward to working with him in the months and years to come.

I looked up and saw LTC Holliday walking across the in front of the gym on is way to join us.  I thought how kind it was of him to take time out of his schedule to come say good-bye.  I got up and walked to meet him and give him a hug.  He sat down at the outside table with us.  He, Ed and I were going over my “to do” list as well as theirs.  I was taking notes to be sure I don’t forget anything.  I cherish every moment I am with any of our Soldiers whether it is working with them or socially.  Sitting on Camp Bondsteel with my very special group of guys watching Soldiers walk by, criss-crossing the common areas, speaking and saluting as the situation warrants and going about their daily duties is intoxicating and indescribable.  Working side by side with the Soldiers in their duty station is an honor and indescribable.  I am, without a doubt, the luckiest woman on earth to have this honor and opportunity.

Around 1100 hours I mentioned to Anthony it was time to get going.  We were planning to have lunch in Prishtinë/Priština with Peter Duffy of US AID before Kristy and I have to catch our flight to Vienna.  We got up and I hugged Ed.  I turned to hug LTC Holliday and he said he was going with us!  What a wonderful surprise and treat.  He and I headed off towards his vehicle and Kristy and Dada went in the other direction with Anthony.  We met up on the road that runs along the flight line.  As we approached the front gate I reminded LTC Holliday to pull over so I could turn in my badge otherwise he would be “responsible” for me until I returned with it in a few months.  That was enough for him to pull right over!  I laughed.  I got out of the vehicle and started walking towards the guard shack and the supervisor was already on his way towards me with my ID.  I appreciated that.  He didn’t have to do that.  I thanked him and wished him well and told him I hoped to see him and the “guys” again upon my return.  Some will be there – others will go home and others are planning to move on to Afghanistan.

We stopped in the parking lot at BenAf to pick up Dani and Kushtrim.  I had asked them to accompany us to the airport.  Kush (nickname) got in the vehicle with LTC Holliday and me.  Dani joined Anthony’s group.  As we drove to Prishtinë/Priština LTC Holliday and I talked about a myriad of subjects.  We talked about his family.  He seems to be such an amazing husband and father.  I can’t imagine how difficult it must be for them to be apart for so long.  It is obvious that he is a very proud father and a very devoted husband.  He’s just a great man and, like Anthony and Ed, I am so happy to know him and to have the opportunity and honor to work with him.  He has been a huge support for us while we learn all of the “ropes” of working in a foreign arena.  I remember the first day we were here on this trip and he had a team meeting – he asked that everyone on the team do whatever they could to assist us while we were there.  Granted – the projects on which we work are with them but…he always makes us feel as much a part of the team as the Soldiers.  Hey, he’s even yelled at me a couple of times and, admittedly, I deserved it.  Security is key and often I don’t think about that because I’ve never been in the military.  While I have NEVER done ANYTHING to jeopardize anyone’s personal safety, I occasionally forget some of the “rules” that I must follow.

We also spent some time talking with Kush.  I love Kush.  He, like Dani and so many of the other INPO young men are just amazing.  Dani, Kush and one other guy were the founders of INPO.  I am SO darn proud of them for what they are doing to change Kosovo in only positive ways.

We arrived in Prishtinë/Priština and fought our way through the area where they are working on the main road.  We pulled in to Chalet Denis on time, got a table.  The waiter came to take our drink orders and before I could even open my mouth he pointed to me and said, “a macchiato THIS big” while holding his arms wide open.  We all got a laugh out of that.  Soon after we arrived Peter called to say that he wasn’t going to be able to join us because of an unexpected meeting.  I hated that but completely understood.  We had a nice lunch.  Kush tried to pull the “I’m not hungry” routine on me but I’ve learned that one long ago.  I told him to either order what HE wanted to eat or I’d order something for him.  I knew he would NOT allow food to be wasted so he ordered.  LTC Holliday needed to run over to KFOR Main so we all stayed behind while he did that – faster without all of us to get through security.  Fine – another excuse for me to have one more “last” cup of macchiato.

LTC Holliday drove up.  We had already paid the bill so we walked down the stairs to join him so that he didn’t have to park, etc.  He was on the north side of the road and Anthony has parked on the south side.  I walked across the road and started to get in to Anthony’s vehicle.  LTC Holliday yelled to me saying, well, I’ll tone this down a bit, “what are you doing?  I see how you are.  I thought you were riding with me.”  As I began to respond by saying I had ridden to Prishtinë/Priština with him and wanted to ride to the airport with Anthony he held his hand out palm towards me and said, “Talk to the hand!”  I doubled over laughing!  Even this big old tough guy who has served in Iraq, Afghanistan and other hazardous areas around the world can be funny.  So, I loaded up with Anthony and away we went.

We wound our way around the traffic circle back on to the main road.  Took the first exit to the right, made a left and were on our way.  After a bit we took a left that had us on the road towards the airport.  We were making really good time and were going to have plenty of time to get checked in, take those last photos and say good bye.  I was determined not to get emotional as I have in the past.  Then, our luck ran out.  Traffic came to a dead stop.  We couldn’t really see what was going on up ahead but figured it must be an accident.  Little by little we inched forward.  Traffic coming from the other direction was spaced out as if there was some reason to let one vehicle from each lane go then back to the other lane, etc.  I wasn’t getting worried about time but knew that we weren’t going to have much extra.

THEN!  THEN!  THEN!  We came to the source of the “issue”.   Holy Cow!  Smack dab in the middle of one of the few main roads in Kosovo stood a news reporter and camera man.  They were literally stopping people in the MIDDLE of the highway and interviewing them.  We have no idea what this what about but we DID have a lot to say to the reporter when she approached our vehicle to inquire as to whether we would like to make any comments.  Oh, some of us in the vehicle made comments alright.  I won’t disclose WHO made the comments nor will I disclose what the comments were.  I think most of you can fill those in yourselves.  So, after about 20-30 minutes of delay for this crap we continued on to the airport.

I’ve never seen the Prishtinë/Priština airport as crowded as it was this day.  There was even a line to enter the parking lot.  Luckily we were able to take the military lane and by pass all the craziness.  We parked, grabbed the bags and walked the short distance to the terminal.  I was completely distracted by the fact that time was running short but not yet critical.  So, no emotion.  A good thing!  We went through security.  That’s another WHOLE subject for another day.  Kristy and I got in a LONG line to check in.  Uh oh.  This is just not going so well.  I checked in first and was assessed for excess baggage.  You have GOT to be kidding me!  No time to discuss – over to the special window for the collection of the baggage fee, have the paperwork stamped then back to get the boarding pass.  As I was standing there in total misery at the amount of time it was taking to MANUALLY fill out 13,000 different pieces of paper in order to collect my money I began to be concerned about time.  Then, as if all of that wasn’t enough, Kristy comes over to tell me she got a boarding pass for the flight from Prishtinë/Priština to Vienna but not for the flight from Vienna to Zurich.  What?  They finally finished hand writing out all of the forms, gave them the “BAM” stamp and off we went back to the ticket counter.  I handed over my paperwork and got my boarding pass for Prishtinë/Priština to Vienna but not for Vienna to Zurich.  Ok, enough already!  I pulled out my paper work to show the seat assignments we had been given WEEKS before this trip.  The lady explained there was nothing she could do.  I told her we only have 40 minutes between flights in Vienna and we will have to take a bus from one terminal to another.  She was not concerned at all.

Then to my rescue came a supervisor who had overheard the conversation.  Turns out the lady who had been checking us in didn’t even work for Austrian Air Lines but the supervisor did.  She took our paperwork and produced the boarding passes.  Thank you ma’am.

By this point there was barely time for quick hugs and good byes.  Certainly no time for photos darn it!  That’s been tradition!  Oh, well.  Next time.  Off through passport control then security and straight to boarding.  Whew!  I don’t like to cut it this close on international flights.  But, we made it AND when I got on the plane I realized that I hadn’t even gotten misty eyed.  Yippee!!!

Everything on schedule to Zurich.  Shuttle to the hotel for the night.  Tomorrow morning the flight back to the US.

I’ll give this trip a HUGE stamp of “Mission Accomplished” and begin the work for the next phase.