December 2005

Kosovo December 2005

19 December 05 Kosovo

20 December 2005 – Ferizaj, Kosovo  

21 December 2005 – Kosovo

22 December 2005 – Kosovo

23 December 2005 - Kosovo

24 December 2005 - Kosovo

24 December 2005 Part II - Kosovo

25 December 2005 - Kosovo

26 December 2005 – Kosovo

Kosovo December 2005  - Back to Top

I can’t stay away from Kosovo.  I’m addicted.  I realize that is good and bad.  It is good because of the kindness, warmth and hospitality of the people.  It is good because of all of the steps we are making (big or small) in conjunction with the needs shared with me by the Civil Affairs Soldiers deployed there.  While the work they have done and continue to do since 1999 is fantastic there are lines which they either have no authority, no funds or no permission (due to the rules of their mission) to cross.  It is bad because I see basic needs of hundreds of thousands of people that haven’t been met and I realize, as I’ve said many times, “I cannot fix Kosovo.”  The needs are too great for a single person or single organization to meet.  Basic needs like education, clothing, running water, dependable electricity, working sewer systems, employment, hygiene, food, the ability for all ethnic backgrounds to feel safe to move freely throughout the Province without fear of repercussion, etc.  I’ve said it over and over again – if you ever go to Kosovo you too will both fall in love with the people and the beauty of the country along with wondering just how in the world it is in the desperate condition it is in?  It’s just so beyond my understanding.

A little background – I first went to Kosovo in the summer of 2005 mostly on a lark.  I had been supporting via care packages, phone cards, etc. a group of Soldiers in Iraq during OIF1.  They all came home and some were deployed with another group to Kosovo so I picked all of them up to support.  After they had been in Kosovo for a time they contacted me about the possibility of assisting a group of young adults there that were doing amazing things to help move Kosovo forward.  I “signed” up.  A month or so later that group Initiative for Progress (INPO) invited me to Kosovo.  I went.  (See Travel Diaries for summer 2005)  Suffice to say it was a life changing experience that I NEVER saw coming.   After returning from that trip I decided to organize a non-profit here as a way to begin making whatever contribution we could to Kosovo and, hopefully down the road, other post conflict countries.  Finding our focus was easy and difficult.  I know – that makes no sense but that is how it happened.  Our focus is on education but we will participate in other “related” projects.

Imagine that you wake up one morning after decades, lifetimes and generations of living in a country that has no clue what freedom, democracy, open society, etc are.  I know - you cannot imagine that.  Well, neither can I but that is exactly what happened to the people of Kosovo.  Now, with your imagination “hat” still on try to understand what Democracy is.  Try to understand what freedom is along with your personal responsibilities as a “free” person AND the responsibilities of the elected officials.  Try to understand what role you have if you see an elected official or public employee either not doing their job or taking advantage of it.  Imagine going to the hospital and being told that you will only be treated IF your family pays hundreds or thousands of extra dollars (beyond the price of the medical care) and your family doesn’t have that money.  Imagine that you think that is the way life is supposed to be and that you do not know that you have avenues through which to remedy the situation.  That, my friends IS happening in Kosovo along with a myriad of other situations that you CANNOT imagine.  Believe me – I have seen it first hand.

Now imagine that there are laws and penalties for breaking those laws.  Easy enough for us to imagine that.  BUT, imagine that you don’t even know what a law is.  AND, imagine that you’ve grown up either witnessing or hearing about people who were punished BEFORE the law by para-military or Soldiers whose “punishment” was to storm in to your home, beat, rape, murder, etc then either simply leave or leave while dragging out members of your family and you not knowing where they are going or if you will even see them again.  If you were now told that there are laws would you be willing to report someone for breaking one of those laws in fear of the above continuing to happen?  The above is not continuing to happen but after a lifetime of knowing that is how it worked why would you want to “test” the new system?  Additionally, imagine that the current temporary police force is made up of policemen and policewomen who come from both civilized and non civilized nations.  That, too, is currently the case in Kosovo.  While they are continuing to train local citizens to be the police force there are still police officers in Kosovo from countries that don’t have civilized societies.  Hmmmmm.  Just how does that work out so well?  Now imagine trying to “trust” the police.  Believe me, there are wonderful Kosovo policemen there who are doing an amazing job.  Unfortunately there haven’t been enough of them trained to carry the full load at this time and they are still “finding their way”.  They are “getting there”.  One of our educational goals is to provide classes on basic democracy, transparency in government, nation building, civil society, basic economics, etc.  We plan to teach groups and to also provide them with materials to continue to teach within their society.   

Let’s continue our game of “imagination”.  Imagine having school “buildings” that are basic structural shells and not all of them so structurally sound.  No running water.  No electricity.  No indoor plumbing.  Add to that the fact that most of the children and some of the teachers do not even have school books.  How can ANY society survive, much less thrive, if the citizens are deprived of a basic education?  They can’t – they are doomed.  So, we will work to help find books or money to purchase books for the schools.  As for the water, electricity, plumbing – I’m at a loss on how to “fix” those.  WAY beyond our means or scope.  The good news is that these people are hungry for an education and take it VERY seriously.

I refuse to become political on the issue of Kosovo.  Not because I don’t want to but because I would be shooting myself in the foot.  Taking a political stand will not help our non-profit organization, Progress Through Peace, Inc.  That is unfortunate in many ways but simply a fact.  I will say that it beyond my comprehension that literally BILLIONS of dollars have been spent in Kosovo in 6 years and the conditions still be as they are.  BEYOND MY COMPREHENSION.

Imagine living in a “home” that is not structurally sound – one that is so open to the elements that cows and chickens and dogs wander freely in and out.  Where the cold literally chills you to the bone and you cannot get warm.  Wood to heat ONE ROOM of that house costs around $650.00 a year and the average (that’s AVERAGE) annual income of a family of 6 is around $2500.00.  The $650.00 cost for wood for heating is just to survive through the winter.  Kosovars cook on wood stoves so they need wood throughout the year for that, too.  Imagine that the electricity “comes and goes.”  And, with that you need to understand that if there is no electricity there is no running water AT ALL.  On my most recent trip we went 20 hours without electricity at one point.  EVERY single day it was going on and off.  If it goes off during the night you are plunged in to total darkness.  IF a family has the means they scramble for candles to light.  A privileged few have generators that supply light to a room or two.  Even these are used sparingly because of the fuel cost to run them.

Imagine walking miles in below freezing weather without adequate clothing to keep you warm.  The children all walk up to 30 plus minutes to get to school each day.  Many of them have no coats, sweaters, gloves, caps, etc. to keep them warm.  Just not in the budget.  Basic survival is even difficult for most.  Men walk for miles and stand in groups on corners hoping to pick up work.  They often also have inadequate clothing and go for days, weeks, months without work.  Unemployment is about 70%.  Ladies and gentlemen – there is no welfare system, nor are there homeless shelters, Goodwill stores, soup kitchens throughout Kosovo.  You either have it or you don’t and if you don’t there are no social organizations there to support you through the bad times. 

Now the kicker – Not ONE time.  Let me repeat that – not ONE time have I EVER had a person in Kosovo ask me for money, beg me for money, or insinuate that I “owe” them help.  As a matter of fact I remember talking with the superintendent of the elementary school in Kllokot (on my recent trip in December 2005) and asking him the top 3 things that would be most beneficial for me to attempt to secure for his school.  Do you know what he looked me straight in the eye and told me?  “Just being here means more to use than anything you could physically give us.  Just knowing that you are interested and care is important.”    I’m sitting in the “office” of a school in the dead of winter, below freezing temperatures, no phone, no electricity, no running water (even if they had running water in the school the village itself had been without running water for 7 days when I was there), no indoor toilets, not enough school books (the ones they have are out of date, etc and they only have a few of those), not enough pens, paper, colors, etc., sewage running over in to the school yard (we’re working to fix that), students suffering from skin disease due to the sewer problem (Civil Affairs and a wonderful lady named Natalija from the Belgrade Stock Exchange have almost remedied that) and he still won’t “ask” me for anything.  The children who have been “cured” of the skin diseases have permanent scarring from it.  These are PROUD and humble people.  They don’t want hand outs.  They want to ability to be able to help themselves.  How can we turn out backs on that?  HOW?  This particular school is located in a Serbian village.  I won’t give you a history lesson because I know just enough to be dangerous on that – but the Serbs of this village rarely leave their village for fear of reprisal by a FEW non Serbs over there. 

Our American NATO/KFOR Soldiers have done such amazing work towards assisting Kosovo get on its feet.  Things are basically secure there now.  There is “order” although be careful when walking on the sidewalk as you may get run over – often the sidewalk is a smoother place to drive than the roadway.  Also be careful of the donkey carts on the highways, the cows walking or being led on the highways, etc.  Don’t even be amazed - be amused - when you see a cow crammed in to the back seat of a vehicle.  NOT a rare site – the only way to transport when you have to.  You may still hear a few gun shots now and then and there are still some vehicle bombings.  I’d have to get “political” to explain all of that, though.

Part of me completely understands how our wonderful Soldiers can lay their heads down on their pillows at night and sleep a wonderful sleep.  This is because I’ve seen what they have done and continue to do. I’ve seen the way the locals flock to them as they walk down the sidewalk and want to shake their hands, thank them for what they do, thank them for  “Saving us.”  I’ve seen and heard that over and over and over.  I see the wave and hear the calls to the military vehicles as they pass by.  I see the children smile at them.  It is heart warming and gutt wrenching. 

Then there is the other part of me that wonders how they sleep at all.  The emotional toll of what they are subjected to each day has to be and is enormous.  No it’s not Africa with the AIDS epidemics and starvation in the dusty heat.  But how do you manage day by day to tell a parent that you cannot help them with the medical needs of their child or how do you sit down to eat knowing that there are men, women and children who are NOT eating that night and may not have the night before?  How do you lay in bed at night in a heated room and snuggle in to your bed knowing that most of the population “outside the wire” of Camps Bondsteel and Montieth (and all the other national camps) are trying to huddle together in sub freezing weather to keep warm?  How do you look a child in the eye who is, obviously VERY bright, and know that they are in peril of growing up uneducated and with NO CHANCE at a future at all?  How? How? How?

So, when Civil Affairs approached me about “helping” I said “Yes.”  Of course I said that before thinking about what I was getting in to.  This is ALL new territory for me.  I have volunteered before for different causes here in America .  I have donated funds and assisted in raising funds.  I have been to the Gulf Coast area to help out Hurricane Katrina victims.  I have fed those down on their luck, etc.  NOTHING prepared me for this.  And, I NEVER imagined I would be involved in something this huge or critical.  Let me remind you – in Kosovo there are no homeless shelters, soup kitchens, Goodwill types of stores or social agencies for people to turn to.  There is NO welfare system.

When I sat down to write this my full intention was to begin to write daily journals about my trip.  Not sure how I ended up in this direction but, obviously, it needed to be said.

Progress Through Peace, Inc. has its cart WAY in front of the horse right now.   We are a recognized non profit in the state of Tennessee .  We are filing for 501c3 status with the IRS and are waiting for that to come through.  We are working to get a web site up.  EVERYONE is volunteering their time and money at this point and will continue to do so as long as necessary.  We have an amazing Board of Directors who I cannot thank enough.  Most of all I want to thank those who have made contributions to PTP, Inc. for the work to replace the broken sewer system in Kllokot.  There is no way I can describe how awful the situation is there and how much this small project is going to make a huge impact on so many lives.

19 December 05 Kosovo- Back to Top

I have NO idea how cold it is here but it IS cold.  There are a couple of things I know for sure.  I’ve been traveling for over 20 hours.  I couldn’t be happier to finally be back in Kosovo.  It’s cold as heck.  Snow and ice are EVERYWHERE and………………………….my “friends” are late in arriving to pick me up.  Go figure!!!  Guess they have been in Kosovo so long they are on “Kosovo” time.  Kosovo time, for those of you who haven’t experienced it means you get there when you get there.  So, I stand looking around wondering if, even after checking and rechecking, we have gotten the arrival date and/or time mixed up.  Nah!  Maybe instead of meeting me at the arrivals area they have chosen to stay with the vehicles out “yonder.”  OK, this is not going to be pretty but I’m going to DRAG all of my luggage the 100 yards or so to the parking area through, literally, inches of ice and snow that won’t ever be plowed and will be there until the Spring thaw.  The wheels on my luggage mean absolutely NOTHING at this point given the condition of the parking lot and roadways.

Just about the time I start the dragging process I look to my left and see SFC Pointer grinning at me.  Seems they were late but that he has approached me from my left flank and I never saw him coming.  Darn him!  OK, I really didn’t care that he was late or that he stood watching me look for them for a few minutes and laughing at me all the while before he made his presence known.  I was SO happy to see him and give him a big hug – and all my BAGS!!!!

Only SFC Pointer, COL Iadimarco and SPC Gorman knew I was coming.  I had asked them to keep this visit “under the radar” for reasons that will be explained later.  I knew that Danny Ilazi would be with them as their Albanian interpreter since I had asked that they bring him along.  I also knew that Danny would be in shock when he saw me.  I was right.  I won’t go in to the whole scenario because you’d have to know Danny for it to all really matter but as I began walking towards him he began to squint to see who I was.  When he realized who I was he stopped walking and talking and just stared.  For Danny to stop talking is almost international news.  Then the screaming and running began.  He was screaming and running towards me and I was running the other way.  Had to be comical.

I was so happy to see SPC Gorman again.  We didn’t get to spend much time together on my last trip because she was in some kind of military school.  I should know what kind but all of that military jargon and terminology is just too much for me.  Suffice to say she attended and finished it well.  She is such an amazingly wonderful woman, Soldier and human being.  I finally got to meet COL Iadimarco.  I had been waiting to meet this gentleman because of all of the fantastic things I had heard about him.  It turned out as my visit progressed that he is even more fantastic than I had imagined.  Not only am I honored to know him I love and respect him tremendously.

I was introduced to SPC Pelliccio.  Nice looking young kid.  Fell in love with him during the visit, too.  How are we so lucky to have so many amazing men and women in our armed forces?  Why don’t we give them to respect, support and credit they are due?

Here you can fill in a few minutes of me listening to them explain why they were late.  Basically they tried to pin it on the fact that my flight was early.  Ah, yea.  About 5 minutes!!!!  But, who really cares?  I’m here and we have work to do so let’s get to it.

I don’t know about the rest of you but normally when I’ve traveled a great distance I like to get to my hotel (or wherever I am staying), unpack, relax and begin my work or vacation the following day.  Well, I’m not sure there is really one NORMAL thing about Kosovo.  So, off we go on the back roads from the airport towards Camp Bondsteel .  It seems that we’ve been invited to a feast of some Saint at a family’s home in the Serbian village of Kllokot .  OK, I can do this.  The last time I went to Kosovo I was up for 31 hours including travel time and the festivities they had planned for me upon my arrival with a multi ethnic young adult group.  Guess that means I’ve got another 10 or so good hours in me, huh?

We stopped just outside the gate of Camp Bondsteel to pick up Dada and Sonya 2 of the Serbian interpreters.  I don’t know Sonya but Dada is my dear friend.  It was so good to see her and to hug her.  So very good.  More about Dada in future entries.

Not too long after we left the gate at Camp Bondsteel on our way to Stava’s house I let Danny call his family to tell them I was in “town” and would need a place to stay.  It was late enough in the day that most of the shops and stores had closed and that was important to me.  His family doesn’t have the money to go out and buy things for MY convenience and they did that the last time I stayed with them.  Danny’s mother speaks no English and I speak no Albanian.  I had him give me the phone when she answered and in English I said, “this is Leta.”  I don’t know what she said but I repeated myself.  I could tell that I wasn’t getting through.  Found out later she thought Danny was playing a joke on her with some female Soldier acting as me.  I gave the phone to Danny and he told his mother it was true.  Across the vehicle I could hear the screaming and shouting.

Off we go slip sliding away on the ice covered roads to Kllokot.  Apparently there are no snow removal or salting trucks in all of Kosovo.  If there are they must be saving them for “the big one.”  We are going to the home of Stava one of the teachers at the elementary school in Kllokot.  (More about the school and projects we are working on in future posts).  We have been invited to share in the feast of Nicholas.  According to Dada, in Serbian culture, each family has a Saint that they celebrate once a year.

Stava’s home is tucked away from the “main” drag.  When we pulled up to park we were in total darkness with the exception of the light from the moon.  It’s that electricity “issue” again – not any!  We carefully picked our way in to the house over the inches thick layers of ice and snow.  Seemed a bit hazardous to me but what else could we do?  Once inside the house we sat around the table in candlelight.  Nope, not a romantic dinner setting – no electricity.  Have I mentioned that as a problem?  Even those who DO have it never know when they are going to have it and for how long.  Generally speaking the power is on more than it is off but you just cannot depend on it. 

Stava’s daughters had truly prepared a feast.  Wish I could tell you what all of the dishes were but I have no idea.  I know there were a couple of fish dishes, salads and the most delicious home made bread I have ever smelled or tasted.  I had SFC Pointer taste each one first “just in case” - just kidding.  Dada and Sonya were great about telling us what all the dishes were.  It was fantastic!!!  Then came the Rakia   Holy Cow!!!  Best I can relate it to is good old Southern white lightning.  Everyone has their own recipe.  I would have more later in the week that was smoother than this was.   I’d heard about Rakia on a previous trip but had avoided it.  This time I didn’t really have a choice.  It would have been rude of me to completely turn it down.  Our Soldiers aren’t allowed to consume alcohol in Kosovo so I was taking it for the team.  Instead of sipping on it I just tossed it right down thinking I would get it over with quickly.  Glad I wasn’t driving.  Glad I was too tired to really feel the burn.  Following the Rakia we were offered Brandy.  Oh, why not?  Good choice.  Much smoother and no burn.  OK, sounds like I over indulged.  I didn’t.  Only had 2 Rakia and one Brandy and they were both served in smaller than shot size glasses.   We finished everything off with Turkish coffee and/or hot tea.  The hot tea and the macchiato in Kosovo are unparalleled. – especially the macchiato.  It’s almost worth the trip for that.  Everyone got tickled at me throughout my visit when I would order a macchiato.  I would say that I wanted one “this big” and hold my arms wide open.  It finally worked on my last day there as we were eating lunch at a restaurant overlooking Prishtina before my flight out.  I thought SPC Gorman and SFC Pointer were going to fall out of their chairs when they saw the size of the cup I got – had to have been close to a pint.  Priceless!!!  A definite Kodak moment.

After we finished the dinner and aperitifs at Stava’s the gang took me to Danny’s house.  His family came running out when we rolled up. It was at that point that his father truly believed I was there.  Too funny!!!  They all tried to grab my luggage and I wouldn’t let them.  I TRIED to tell them during the last visit that I am to be treated just as one of them.  This trip I am going to INSIST on that.  Up the stairs we go.  Golly it was cold!  Reality check – it never occurred to me when I planned this trip that I would be “living” in a house with no heat.  Duh!!!!  Yep, slept every night I was there in below freezing temps with no heat.  Hey, they do it so I did, too.  Didn’t like it one little bit but that’s just the way it is and, “when in Rome ……”

Once I got my things settled in I went down to the family room – the only heated room in the house - and we had hot tea and hugs and kisses and caught up on everything including the fact that I had sent them Christmas presents which they promptly opened BEFORE I got there.  Granted they didn’t know I was coming but I had so looked forward to watching them open those.  I suspected they didn’t celebrate Christmas as we do in America – you know, the excess, emphasis on presents, etc.  Turns out I was right.  When Christmas Day rolled around there were NO presents under the tree except one for me (more on that when I get to Christmas Day).  I had shipped boxes and boxes of sweaters, pants, coats, gloves, socks, blankets, etc. to them.  OK, the blankets were self serving as it turns out but I knew they had no warm clothes so my Christmas present to me and my REAL family was to spend all of my money on the Ilazi family.  That doesn’t make me a saint as some have mentioned – REALLY DOESN’T.  It was just the right thing to do.

Everyone in the group had come in to visit because they knew there was yet another surprise to spring on Danny and on Dada.    So, we’re sitting around the family room and I pull out this “packet”.  I look to Danny and tell him that he and I are going to have to complete all of the information in it before I leave so that I can take it home with me.  The packet was an admissions applications for Danny to attend a University in the United States .  As I was telling him his eyes kept getting bigger and bigger and his mouth was as wide open as I’ve EVER seen it.  Yet – he was speechless.  I’ve got to continue to find more ways to make Danny speechless since that just doesn’t occur often enough.  If he’s awake he’s yapping!!!  Twice in one day I’ve made him speechless – an accomplishment in itself.

In all sincerity it was a wonderful moment.  Danny is such a special young man and he will take this VERY seriously and will go back to Kosovo and do many great things with his degree.  And, he’s SMART!!!!  It is so unfortunate that he doesn’t have the opportunity for an education in Kosovo right now.

I felt bad that his parents had NO IDEA what we were telling Danny.  After he got himself together he translated for his parents.  VERY EMOTIONAL!!!  What parent doesn’t want the best for their child?  This news was almost more than they could imagine or ever dream of.  Throughout the week his parents kept thanking us over and over and over again for this opportunity.  They kept telling us that they had always wanted Danny to have this opportunity but knew it would never happen.  Now this, ladies and gentlemen is what the TRUE spirit of Christmas is all about.  I’m so happy that so many came together to make this opportunity available.  While it’s not a “done deal” Danny has been accepted, provisionally, and is studying for his SAT, etc.  Our biggest hurdle will be the student visa but we’ll get it somehow, someway.

Then we turned to Dada to tell her that she, too, was going to have this opportunity.  TOTAL disbelief on her face!!!  Again - mouth wide open with nothing coming out of it.  I wish each of you reading this could truly understand what an opportunity this is for any person from that region of the world.  It is something they dream of but know will NEVER happen.  We were all so happy to be able to share this news with them.  There were kisses and hugs and screams and giggles and handshakes and “oh my goshes” and jumping.  Then, there was more tea!!!!  It was a subject of much discussion throughout the week.  We have a great “plan” in place.  It’s going to take a lot of work but it will be so worth while in the end.

Off to bed.  Been a LONG travel day and we have much to accomplish tomorrow.  Besides, it’s after midnight and I’ve lost track of what day it is or how long I’ve been up.  Not sure how I’m going to get any sleep in this cold but I’ll figure it out.  Most of all it just felt “right” and “comfortable to be back in my Kosovo “home” again.  Actually ended up sleeping like a baby.

20 December 2005 – Ferizaj, Kosovo - Back to Top

I think I Maaaaaaaaaaaaaaay have already mentioned in previous entries that it is COLD here.  I truly have no idea how cold because it just doesn’t matter.  And, even if someone did tell me they would tell me in Celsius.  About all I know with regard to Celsius is that 0 degrees = 32 Fahrenheit and 100 degrees = 212 Fahrenheit.  So, if they told me it was 2 degrees or minus 4 degrees all I’d still know is that it is COLD.  Admittedly I’m a weenie but I can’t help that.  I’ve lived in the South all my life.

When I woke up this morning I went through my usual morning routine here – peeled all the covers back, gasp when the cold air hit, gritted my teeth and put my feet on the icy cold tile floor.  Put on layers of clothes, socks and slippers and trundled to the “family” room where I knew there was HEAT!!!  When I opened the door to the family room those who were awake shot up from their seats and came running towards me with their arms wide open calling my name.  Went through the round of requisite kisses – right cheek, left cheek, right cheek while shaking hands.  Then Mrs. Ilazi ran to the wood stove to pour me a cup of hot tea.  Ahhhh!  That hot tea is so worth the trip!  No one who speaks English was up yet so Mr. and Mrs. Ilazi and I sat making hand gestures, nodding and attempting to communicate.  We’ve learned to do pretty well so long as we stick to certain subjects.

I mentioned in my first diary entry that I wanted to go to Kosovo “under the radar” on this trip.  Well, now I’ll tell you why.  There is SO much to do there.  When a citizen from “outside” shows up and wants to help, the requests for meetings, dinners, press conferences, etc. are endless.  I didn’t want anyone to know that I was coming because I had a list of tasks to accomplish and knew that list would grow exponentially if anyone was aware that I was on the way.  The remainder of the week proved that to be so true.

Since my last visit to Kosovo I have been working to secure Sister City partnerships for some of the major cities around Kosovo.  My initial focus is to find the right “fit” for Ferizaj.  I’ve talked with the Sister Cities International people and had all of the information I needed in order to get the ball rolling on this. 

I had emailed Mr. Gafurr Imeri and 3 other men in Kosovo as well as Danny to “set up” a phone call for this morning at 10:00 am Kosovo time.  I told them I would be calling to discuss Sister Cities , etc.  Well……. there was to be no phone call.  When we got to the municipal building I sent Danny in to tell Mr. Imeri’s assistant that I was coming in behind him but when I came in to buzz Mr. Imeri’s office and pretend that the call was coming through.  Then I would walk through the door and say “surprise!!!”  SFC Pointer was concerned that I was going to make Mr. Imeri have a heart attack when I walked in to his office!   His assistant could not have pulled it off any better.  She was smiling all the while.  Again, neither she nor I speak the same language but in this case that just didn’t matter.  She rang through to him then gave me the “signal” to go in.  I walked in to his office and he was on the phone talking to her.  He looked at me like I was some sort of celestial “vision” and continued to talk to her.  When he FINALLY realized I was really standing there he stopped talking but just stood there with the phone in his hand and his mouth wide open and he was as red as a beet.  I’m not sure he took a breath for a while.  Maybe SFC Pointer was right about that heart attack thing.  Then he practically jumped across the desk to give me a hug and the right cheek, left cheek, right cheek kiss.  Mr. Zefi was as dazed as Mr. Imeri.  Fill in here with several minutes of discussion about me being there, etc.  It was SO good to see them all again.  There were men in the office that I didn’t know who turned out to be businessmen, etc. that Mr. Imeri had invited.

Short test – Guess what happened next?  If you’ve been paying attention you know that now is the time for them to ask what we would like to drink.  Orders all around for juice, coffee, macchiato, cappuccino, etc.  And, GUESS what I ordered?

We finally got down to business.  With Danny’s help interpreting I told them about the progress on the Sister City project and we filled out all of the forms for me to bring back.  Then we discussed other projects.  The meeting went smoothly since the office wasn’t packed with TV, radio and news reporters asking a million questions and taking hundreds of photos.  Again – that “under the radar” thing – very necessary for this short trip to be able to accomplish my goals without all the hoopla.  As we were talking 2 members of INPO came in.  They had NO IDEA I was in town and were shocked to see me.  GREAT to see them.  More hugs and kisses!!!

After the meeting we went for “lunch”.  3 hours later (normal time for a meal there) we were done.  The weather wasn’t looking so good – starting to get foggy.  With the temps so low there is always a risk of freezing fog, etc.  And, with the roads in horrible condition anyway the Soldiers returned to Bondsteel and Danny and I went to PoPo’s for – oh yea, macchiato!!!

PoPo’s is a “club” run by a Resul Jusifi.  In this “club” one sits around drinking various types of coffees or beer and “visits”.  Not an American type of “club.”  Resul is another wonderful man.  He is kind and warm and caring.  He has an amazing soul and cares so much about the youth of Kosovo.  He is an artist.  On my last trip to Kosovo he took me to Prizren to see his gallery.  Talk about stepping back in time!  Prizren is one of the oldest cities in Kosovo.  We walked down 500-600 year old cobblestone streets laid by the Ottomans.  I saw an old Roman bath house that took my breath away.  It is an amazingly beautiful area fraught with destruction from the recent war.  What a shame.  I have two of the most gorgeous paintings by him at my home.  I bought one on my last trip and he gave me the other as a gift.  I’ve had them framed and I took photos to show to him.  He was very touched by the way I had them framed and displayed and asked if he could have the photo.  Anyway, Resul uses the profits from PoPo to fund a performing arts group in Kosovo.  This group allows young adults to utilize performance to work through their feelings about the recent war, being refugees, etc.  Granted, it’s not my “kind” of performance art but it works for them.  It is very very modern.  The group has performed at Camp Bondsteel and was very well received there.  I was told by the American Soldiers that when the group went to Camp Bondsteel they all commented about what an honor it was to be there. 

After a short time at Po Po it was back to Danny’s house for tea, hugs and kisses.  The electricity went off around 9:30 PM .  As it would turn out they didn’t come back on again for 20 hours.  So, guess what?  No running water.  No shower the next morning and no flushing of toilets.  ARGH!!!!  So, I guess it really didn’t matter that there was not heat.  Without electricity we wouldn’t have had it at home either, huh?  Mercy it was COLD between those sheets!!!

21 December 2005 – Kosovo - Back to Top

Woke up to no power this morning.  It went off at 9:30 last night.  UGH!!!  Thank goodness for that wonderful wood stove in the family room.  When I trundled in the hot tea was steaming on top of the stove and I was ready for it. 

Hot tea is a way of life in Kosovo year round.  It’s not made like we make it in America .  The tea pot is actually 2 pots.  Both are shaped the same but one is smaller and sits on top of the other.  The bottom (larger) pot is filled with water.  The top (smaller) pot has water and loose tea in it.  And, some of the BEST loose tea I’ve ever tasted.  I LOVE tea.  During the day when I am at home I will drink at least half gallon of iced tea.  Anyway, the 2 pots are placed over the hottest part of the wood stove until the bottom pot begins to steam.  Then the pot is moved away from the direct heat so that it maintains its temperature.  The women of Kosovo are a master of knowing EXACTLY where to place items on those wood stoves when they are cooking.  They also know EXACTLY where to place items inside the wood stove – a lesson I would learn in a few days.

To serve the tea one uses special hot tea glasses, saucers and spoons.  The spoons are tiny little things that look like they might come with a little girl’s tea set.  The glasses are 2 ½ inches tall and about 1 inch in diameter at the largest part.  They have a larger bottom area, are narrow in the middle and large at the top.  The saucers are to keep you from burning yourself!!!  Place glass on saucer, dump in 2 spoons of sugar, from the top pot pour about ½ full of tea, from the bottom pot fill with plain hot water.   When the tea is served you use that cute little spoon to stir the sugar.  When you are ready to drink this marvelous steaming beverage you should NEVER pick the glass up around its middle section or the pain from the heat will immediately get your attention!!!  To drink the tea one should pick the glass up around the top edge.  P. S.  I have never seen any sugar substitutes in all of Kosovo so, if you plan to go there, be aware!!!

Today was a VERY emotional day.  But a good day.  A productive day.  A happy day.  A heart warming day.

Another of my reasons for this trip to Kosovo was to see, with my own eyes, the problem with the sewer system around the elementary school in the Serbian village of Kllokot .  SFC Pointer and COL Iadimarco had contacted me about this and had asked if there was any way that Progress Through Peace, Inc. could help with the funding for the materials to fix the mess.  OK, surely by now you know me well enough to know that saying “No” to one of “my” Soldiers is just not in my vocabulary when it comes to supporting them in their work – especially when the request goes hand in hand with what PTP, Inc. focuses on. 

After the requisite morning kisses and hot tea we were off to Kllokot to see the sewer problems and meet some of the school kids.  The countryside of Kosovo is so beautiful.  Even this die hard Southerner had to admit that the snow covered vistas were gorgeous.   Now, about those snow and ice covered roads – how DO they drive on them?  Oh, I remember, not so well!!!  Thank goodness for 4 wheel drive.  Kllokot is a Serbian village about 10 miles or so from Gate 1 of Camp Bondsteel.  To bring you up to date about the Serbian versus Albanian “issue” in parts of Kosovo would take pages. 

As we drove down the street towards the school I noticed a black flag hanging from a building.  I asked what that was all about and was told that was where the man on the tractor was shot and killed a couple of months ago by a relative.  I had heard about this murder from the Soldiers who just “happened upon” the situation literally seconds after it occurred.  Couldn’t make the chills go away especially when I realized we were about 2 blocks from the school.  Holy Cow!!!  Anyway, as we rounded a corner the school was in site.  When the children recognized the vehicles we were in they began to run towards us waving, smiling and shouting.  We carefully made our way towards the school stopping before we got there to allow some of us to exit the vehicles and move the children away.  We could barely get the doors open before they were hanging all over us like monkeys.  I LOVED it!!!  I instantly recognized a few faces from photos I’d seen but I didn’t see Jovanna or little Gaga. 

As we stood there amidst the children talking, yanking on us, shaking our hands more children and adults began appearing from alleys, paths and across snow covered yards.  I think most of the village must have eventually shown up – OK, not really the WHOLE village but a large majority of it.  Then I began to realize that some of the students were speaking in English.  I suppose they had been all along but I was in total amazement at the reception AND I was trying to listen to the Soldiers as they were pointing out the sewer areas, etc.  I learned that the school is for grades K through 8 and that the children come in shifts since the school is not large enough and they do not have enough teachers.  Grades K through 4 come in the afternoon.  Grades 5-8 come in the morning.  This, it seems, is the way all schools must operate in Kosovo not just in Kllokot.  The same teachers instruct both sessions with an hour break in between.

Since it was late morning all of the kids who were in the school yard were the younger kids.  The older ones were in class.   We went on a “tour” of the school yard area to see how the village sewage contaminating the area.  At one point we were walking along the top of concrete pipe that had been installed to “fix” the problem but really only ends up dumping everything at the edge of the school yard and/or containing it in the school yard.  While standing on top of this snow covered and icy mess one of the Soldiers pointed to the left to show me the “bathroom” of the neighbor immediately adjacent to the school on that side.  It was a wooden “structure” that had no real closure to it.  The wooden sides didn’t meet at any one point nor did they go all the way to the ground.  The bottom line here is that anyone who used that “facility” would be depositing their waste on the ground for it to run downhill – in this case, towards the school.  Luckily the pipeline we were standing on keeps the waste from that house from entering the school yard but does not keep it from running in to a stream just a few feet away.  YUCK!!!  While standing in the very same spot if I turned to the right I was looking at a concrete structure in the school yard.  This, I was told, was the bathroom “facility” for the school.  Yep - an out house.  But I noticed that the snow on either side and, especially, behind the building was a golden color.  My stomach began to roil.  I then learned that the outhouse itself is so nasty that the children, even in warm weather, preferred to deposit their waste on the ground around the facility rather than to have to go in it.  Apparently, and I didn’t want to see, in order to use the facility one has to stand in waste to do so.  Is there REALLY an appropriate comment for me to make at this point?  A side note here – 2 days later when we returned with the Army engineers one of them needed to use the facility.  It was so bad that when he opened the door he backed away and changed his mind. 

Out house next to the Kllokot Elementary school  

We backtracked our way across the pipe and to the street.  We crossed the street and I was shown a stream that flows downhill through the village to the school where it basically “dumps” everything in the school yard.  As we walked upstream I saw how every kind of waste and trash you can image finds its way in to that stream due to, mostly, the drop in elevation from upstream and the homes immediately around it.  The teachers and staff try to encourage the children to remove their shoes before entering the school but that doesn’t always work.  The staff has worked to secure slippers for the children to put on when they enter the school.  This is totally unbelievable to me and TOTALLY unacceptable.

After reviewing the sewer “mess” we began to make our way to the school building to meet with the staff.  A little boy threw a snowball towards us.  I couldn’t resist.  I through one back and the “battle” was on!!!!  We had a wonderful time and to hear the children laughing was worth the cold and wet.  THEN IT OCCURRED TO ME – I was throwing snow and being hit by snow that was contaminated with, well, sewage.  YUCK!!!  Luckily our Serbian interpreter, Dada, had a huge package of towelettes with her so I used those to clean my hands and face as best I could.  YUCK!!!!

We finally got in to the school.  Steva, the gentleman who invited us to his house for the Feast of St. Nicholas on my first night in country, met us.  He is a teacher at the school.  He took us to the “office” to meet the Principal, Mr. Vladan Bogdanovic.  The “office” is really just another room that all of the staff uses as a respite away from the children during breaks.  It has a wood heater, a table and chairs and a hot plate for making coffee and tea.  Very sparsely furnished.  Definitely, like the school, no creature comforts.  There was no copy machine, fax machine, supply room, etc.  And, if the heater was fueled with wood I don’t remember.  I do remember that all I took off were my gloves the entire time we were in the school because it was so cold.

Mr. Bogdanovic is a kind looking man.  His eyes are gentle yet deep.  He spoke softly and deliberately about the school, the students and their situation.  He was born in the village of Kllokot , educated at the University of Mitrovica and the Monastery at Grachanica.  He has been the principal of the Kllokot elementary school since 1999.  Through our interpreter, Dada, he explained that the staff is working to build better conditions for the community.  He told me that the village had been without running water for 7 days.  If he knew why he never said.  He did say that everyone was taking buckets to a well in town for fresh water.  Holy Smokes!!!  He was always very positive and engaging during the time I had with him.  He, like very other person I’ve met in Kosovo, never asked me for ANYTHING.  He expressed his deepest gratitude to PTP, Inc., and KFOR for working to repair the sewer problem around the school.  It has been a difficult situation for them.  He explained to me that the children who use the outdoor toilet step in human waste then bring it back in to the school on their shoes.  He, like the Soldiers, told me that the staff tries to encourage the children to take their shoes off but many just don’t.  And, all of them do not have slippers to put on if they do take their shoes off.  They are very grateful to KFOR and the donors from Belgrade who worked together to treat the children for the skin diseases as well as for the donation of coats for children who didn’t have them.

The teachers at the school make 170.00 Euros per month.  At the current exchange rate that calculates to $205.00 USD.  UNMIK (United Nations Mission in Kosovo) is currently paying the salaries but they are not sure how much longer that will last.

I asked Mr. Bogdanovic, through the interpreter, to tell me the top three needs for the school.  As Dada began to tell me what he was saying the emotion took over.  People who know me, other than perhaps family, know that I am not generally an outwardly emotional person.  Kosovo seems to change all of that.  The tears welled up in my eyes as I fought to stop them.  Mr. Bogdanovic said, “Just having someone here who cares is more than we could ever ask for – more than we have been able to hope for.”  After I collected myself I pressed him for the top three list.  He continued to avoid specific answers but finally said they needed desks, educational tools, books and computers.  There are not enough desks for each child to have one.  In the Kindergarten classroom the children sit on benches.  The only educational tools they have are chalk boards and chalk.  The books they have are used and were sent over 2 years ago.  When I say they are used you need to know that they “study” from workbook type books.  So, the books that the children are using this year have been used before and already have the answers, etc. written in them.  Even so, not all of the children have books.

The emotion of Mr. Bogdanovic’s statement “Just having someone here who cares is more than we could ever ask for – more than we have been able to hope for.”

After meeting with Mr. Bogdanovic for about half an hour they took me to meet the children who were in class.  We went into each room.  As we would enter a room the children would all stand up in respect.    When it happened in the first classroom it took me by surprise.  I immediately motioned for them to sit down.  They looked at their teacher then Dada spoke to them in Serbian and they very quietly took their seats.  I asked each group what they were studying and either the teacher or one of the students would tell me.  Of course, if the student told me they stood first.  In a couple of the classrooms the students would either read to me or recite to me.  It was very special.  They are amazing.  In one particular classroom a young man approached me to shake my hand and thank me for being there.  

The student who came to shake my hand during my tour of the Kllokot elementary school  

We finally made it outside.  I was emotionally spent.  I couldn’t help but think about how much we take for granted, how much our young people “expect.”  No, I do not feel bad about what I have.  I do not feel guilty about the “things” and opportunities in my life.  I feel bad that I see around me, when at home, very little appreciation for the things we have that these children may never even have the opportunity to have.  It’s more than humbling, frustrating and disgusting depending on what side of the fence from which I am looking.

As we were leaving the schoolyard for the vehicles several children and one adult stopped us and invited us to their homes.  We were on such a tight schedule that it just wasn’t possible.   Besides, if we had accepted one invitation how could we have declined the others?  Darn, probably missed some great tea and, who know, maybe even more of that Rakia like on night one.  I decided to have a Christmas party for the children.  Everyone agreed that would be a fun and good thing to do.  We’ll get in touch with the school and let them know.  We’ll have it on Saturday at noon .

On our way back towards Camp Bondsteel and Ferizaj after we had passed through Gjilan we took a right turn on the Ring Road.  I like the call the Ring Road the MAJ Dantoin by-pass but that’s a whole ‘nother story for another time.  Anyway, we turned on the Ring Road in order for me to meet the business man from whom we are purchasing the pipe for the Kllokot project.  He was there.  He was a very nice man.  He is happy to be working with PTP, Inc. and KFOR on this and offered to not charge a delivery fee.  Not that it SHOULD matter but he is Albanian and Kllokot is a Serbian village.  So, you see, the ethnic “issues” are not rampant in Kosovo.  It’s just those “few” who won’t let it die.  ARGH!!!  I was happy to meet this gentleman and told him that I would be wiring the funds once I got back to America .  He is not concerned about the funds.  He said he knows that working with the Americans he will get his money.  He is willing to deliver the materials whenever we ask - whether he has been paid yet or not.  THANK YOU SIR.

We stopped off at Camp Bondsteel on our way back.  As we were leaving the Camp to take me “home” there was a long line of buses coming on to the Camp.  A group of California National Guard has been deployed to Kosovo and in charge of the US KFOR operations there.  Now that their time is up a group of Texas National Guard Soldiers is taking over.  The buses were full of the Texas group.  Now, being on Camp Bondsteel itself is an honor and makes me very proud to be an American and proud of our service men and women.  But to see buses and buses of them lined up to begin their rotation is indescribable.  I thought of their families.  I thought of the experiences they would have in Kosovo.  I thought about how darn lucky I am to be an American.

So, back to the Ilazi house for hot tea and bed.  Hmmmmm – total darkness as we arrived.  Oh, I’m in Kosovo.  Must be a power “outage” again.  Oh, well.  God love SFC Pointer for bringing me his sleeping bag to use for the remainder of my stay.  It keeps your warm to 60 below Fahrenheit.  NOW we’re talkin’!!!

Artwork of the students at the Kllokot elementary school

  Students, Stava, Dada and me in one of the classrooms at the Kllokot elementary school 

22 December 2005 – Kosovo - Back to Top

Well, I really was all warm and toasty last night.  That sleeping bag was a life saver.  And then I unzipped it this morning.  YIKES!!!!  I’m awake, I’m awake.  The good news is that we have power.  So, before I might anger the power “gods” I jumped in the shower.  Hmmmm, guess it hasn’t been on that long.  Not so much hot water.  OK, NO hot water.  Now I’m REALLY awake.  Trundle to the family room.  Ahhhhhhhhhhh – a blast of warm air.  I settled in for some hot tea but not before the “good mornings”, hugs and kisses. 

Today we went to Mitrovica.  Remember, I’m not an historian so don’t expect any major lessons or expert information here but…….Mitrovica is a MESS!!!!  Probably the biggest headache and hot spot in the region.  We went to Mitrovica for 2 reasons.  The Deputy Municipal President, my friend Gafurr Imeri, asked me to go there to meet the Municipal President in hopes that PTP, Inc. can offer assistance to them just as we are doing in Ferizaj – particularly with the Sister City project.  And, to meet the team of Caritas Kosovo.  Caritas Kosovo is a Catholic organization that seems to be doing fantastic work within Kosovo with respect to bridging the ethnic problems, and as I would find out on this trip, particularly in the Mitrovica area. 

L to R – Mr. Zefi, unknown lady, Danny (interpreter), Mr. Imeri, me, Mr. Murseli in Mitrovica

Mitrovica can be thought of as a modern day Berlin .  The city is, basically, split in half and has been since 1999.  I’m not sure if it’s truly a 50/50 split but there is a river that runs through the city.  The municipal building sits at the foot of the bridge between the two sides.  Interesting – very interesting.  One side (South) is predominantly Serbian and the other (North) is predominantly Albanian.  We stayed on the Albanian side.  Apparently the Serbian side isn’t always quite so safe for everyone.  Unlike any other part of Kosovo in which I have traveled I have to say that I really did feel a bit uneasy in Mitrovica and also felt as if there were some tension in the air.  One unique quality of Mitrovica is that they have a parallel governmental structure.  There is a municipal government on the Albanian side and UNMIK (United Nations Mission in Kosovo) is the government on the other side.  The 2 sides are working to bring the city together.  Because of this separation Mitrovica is still in an emergency phase unlike most other parts of the province.

According to the Municipal President, Ibrahim Murseli, the main objective of his administration is the reintroduction of both sides.  Additionally they are working towards Freedom of Movement (a problem in a few other parts of Kosovo – such as Kllokot).  And, they are working through some property “issues”.  Apparently there are about 250 homes on the Serbian side that belong to Albanians.  Because of the tensions and security issues the homeowners cannot go back to their homes and haven’t been able to for a few years.  His commission has not even been able to go there to check the homes to see what condition they are in due to security issues. 

Most of the school buildings are located in the Southern side of the city.  Therefore the children who live in the Northern side have no structures in which to attend school.  Many are attending schools in private homes or in old factories.  They have 3 shifts each day in order to accommodate the children.  They have no school books.

After meeting with Municipal President Murseli we drove to the Caritas Kosovo office in Mitrovica and met the staff there.  They are very upbeat, very positive, very energetic and very dedicated to their work.  They channel their energies and projects towards building peace and reconciliation.  ALL of their projects are multi-ethnic.  They successfully completed 35 projects in 2005.  They work to co-operate with other NGOs in order share assets.  They hold both winter and summer camps for all ethnic groups and have seen continued positive results from those.  I was so very happy to meet these people.  They are a breath of fresh air and a huge asset to Kosovo.

We drove back to Ferizaj where Caritas Kosovo took us to dinner.  I didn’t write down the name of the restaurant but it was something like “Mike’s” or “Bill’s” or something American like that.  Very nice, very quiet and very DARK!!!  Yep, that power thing again!!!  Excellent food and great conversation.  Three members of Caritas Kosovo from other regions of the province drove in 100 Kilometers or more just to join us for dinner.  They would like to send a group to the Gulf Coast area to help with rebuilding from Hurricane Katrina.  I’m going to try to put them in touch with people who can make that happen for them.  Yes, they have WAY too many “fish to fry” in Kosovo but they feel they need to “give something back” to America for all that American has done for them.  Stellar!!! Just Stellar!

Caritas Kosovo, Ferizaj officials, interpreters, SPC Gorman, SPC Pelliccio and me.  Quality is not good – we were on generators for light.

I also met Mr. Musli Berisha who is with USAID.  Mr. Berisha is an amazingly interesting man (as are SO many of the people in Kosovo).  He is from Kosovo and is working with USAID in the Cluster and Business Support area.  He told me about the work they are doing.  He also told me about Roman ruins that have been found on his property.   We hope to get out to see the ruins if we have time.  He is a photographer and has won awards for his photography.  He allowed me to select a photo of his to bring home with me.  It is of an Albanian man in native clothing.  A very beautiful photo.  When I got back to the Ilazi’s home tonight I was showing it to them and Mr. Ilazi knows the man in the photo!  They are going to try to arrange for me to meet him.

Musli Berisha and me with the photo he gave me.

LATE LATE LATE getting “home” tonight.  Tea, hugs and off to bed.

23 December 2005 – Kosovo

Here we go again………………..

When I was in Kosovo this past summer it seemed that my schedule grew and grew and grew each day until finally I had to put my foot down and say, “NO!”  Well, that happened again today.  I didn’t mention in my journal entry from yesterday that I snuggled in to my cocoon sometime after midnight last night.  Honestly!!!  There are only 24 hours in a day and when I’m in Kosovo it seems that I’m out and about for at least 16 – 18 of those.  Add to that the requisite morning and evening tea and visiting and it there’s not much time left for sleep.  The Ilazi family is ALWAYS up waiting for me each night whether I arrive at 9:00 PM or midnight (or later).  I don’t know when they sleep.  I hope they are taking naps during the day.

Oh, we did have power ALL day today!!!!!

Today I was scheduled (unknowingly) for 2 press conferences and other “events”.  I knew we were having one press conference and dinner tonight at Mr. Imeri’s home.  So, I said, “NO” to the other press conference and events.  Once the word got out that I was in country INPO’s phone began to ring, ring, ring from other organizations and individuals wanting to meet with me.  If you read my entries from day 1 you know I purposefully came in to Kosovo “under the radar” on this trip.  The above is why.

I arrived at the INPO office for an 11:00 AM press conference.  Two TV stations, 1 or 2 radio stations and several print journalists were there.  I knew many of them so we did that right cheek, left cheek, right cheek kiss thing around the room for several minutes.  Then we ordered macchiato.  We stood/sat around waiting for that to arrive – no need to get in any hurry you know.  Guess it must have been a real slow news day for all of them to want to spend so much time with me.

Finally got the press conference under way.  INPO made a statement about me being there and introduced me.  Then I commented about several of the projects that INPO either has finished or is working on and how darn proud I am of those kids.  From there I went in to a short talk about the Sister Cities project, Kllokot project, meeting with Caritas Kosovo, etc.  Danny did the translation back and forth from me to the media and from the media questions to me.  He and I have gotten to be quite a team.  I’ve learned not to speak for minutes before I give him a shot at the translation.  OK, I have to admit, every now and then I just have to “test” him by going on and on and on.  Of course, the joke is on me because I have NO IDEA if he is really translating what I am saying.  Oh, he is but he and I always joke about that.  I’ve begun calling him my Interrupter!!!  

After the press conference I bought lunch for the INPO members.  I’m telling you – these kids NEVER eat.  And, when they do it is obvious they haven’t eaten for a while.  We had pizza.  Several of the guys ate 2 each.  I had ordered extras in anticipation of that.

INPO members eating lunch after press conference.

Mr. Zefi, reporter for Bota Sot newspaper, invited the KFOR group and me for lunch at his relative’s restaurant.  The restaurant is called Route 66.  It looks just like an American soda fountain.  We really didn’t have the time but decided to go for “coffee”.  Naturally we ended up eating.  Hey, it’s Kosovo.  Gonna be fed whether you like it or not.  When we walked in his relatives (I think they were nephews) greeted us.  They had a table reserved for us.  We settled in and ordered.  Yep, Macchiato my way please.  I also ordered the Nachos.

As we were waiting for our food we began to talk.  The conversation turned out to be something I had been wanting to hear but ended up wishing I hadn’t heard.  I’d asked a couple of locals to tell me their “story” about living in Kosovo during the end of the Milosevic regime and during the NATO bombing, etc.  I was always told, very respectfully, that they preferred not to relive that time.  I never pressed them for their stories and they never told them to me.  I can only imagine how difficult and painful it must be to relive those awful times and days.  Well, Mr. Zefi began by pointing across the way to a school yard and one of the MANY memorials built to honor the dead (martyrs).  He told the story about how the man was shot in cold blood and in plain site of many of them.  He told of how his father was paralyzed and how he, Mr. Zefi, had carried his paralyzed father on his back for miles to get him away from the area and the Serbian army or paramilitary (I’m not sure which it was).  I wish I had been taking notes but it just didn’t seem to be appropriate.

As he continued with his story he pointed across the road to a house.  Danny, of course, was interpreting.  He mentioned that before the NATO bombing he, his wife and their 7 children were hiding in the basement of the house.  At one point the Serbian Army came in to the house.  Some of the Soldiers were going to kill Mr. Zefi but one of the commanders told them not to and they left.  He was quite graphic in his story but I will not write those details here.  I will say that it was very difficult for me to listen and I know it was VERY difficult for Danny to interpret.  I realized later that Danny must have been reliving his own days.  I felt really bad and really guilty.  The stories NEED to be heard by those of us who weren’t there but I suppose it’s just unfair to ask someone who lived it and survived it to retreat to those awful times and memories.

On a second occasion Mr. Zefi came face to face with Serbian soldiers who talked about killing him while he listened and his family watched.  Once again a commander saved his life by not allowing them to kill him.  He did tell about seeing others murdered.  Finally Mr. Zefi left his wife and children in the basement of the house we could see from where we were having lunch to hide in the attic of a church.  He was there with another man for 3 months.  He had no idea where his family was or if they were safe during those 3 months.

Just before the NATO bombing began Mr. Zefi was included in a group of people who were given, as he indicated with his hands, 3 inch by 3 inch infrared sensors.  That group of people literally placed those sensors on the houses and buildings known to house the “bad guys” so that NATO would know where to bomb.  Ladies and gentlemen you MUST remember this was only in 1999.  This was not 20 or 30 or 40 years ago.  This was only 6 years ago.  You could have heard a pin drop as he told his story.

A happy ending – after the bombing was over and Mr. Zefi got the “all clear” he went back to the house where he had left his family in the basement and found them all alive.  At this point in the story Mr. Zefi became very emotional.  Tears were running down his face.  I asked Danny to tell him to stop unless he wanted to continue.  He chose to stop.  Well, I’m not sure he really “chose” to stop.  I’m not sure he could have emotionally continued at that point.  There was total silence in the group – mostly out of respect I think but also because of the inability to comprehend what it must have been like.  After a couple of minutes to give him time to pull himself together I told him how much I appreciated him telling me the story.  That it is a story that needs to be heard so that we, who can never imagine what it was really like, can TRY to understand.  He then told me that this was the FIRST time he has ever told his story to anyone and that he was surprised at how real it seemed.  I felt so very bad.  No one else at the table had ever heard a local tell their story so it was a bit quiet.  No one really knew what to say.

After lunch we went shopping for the food for the party at the school in Kllokot tomorrow.  We filled shopping cart after shopping cart with cookies, chips, candy, juices and soda.  It was so much fun!!!

Then we went to Camp Bondsteel .  I needed to meet with COL Iadimarco about the contracts, etc. for Kllokot and some of the other officers wanted to meet with me.  I LOVE going to Camp Bondsteel and I ALWAYS consider it an honor to be there.  I’ve gotten to be a veteran with regard to the procedure.  We roll up to the gate, show IDs.  They pull the vehicle over and one of the Soldiers and I get out to go get my visitor’s badge – ALWAYS #49 – hey, it’s become tradition!!!!  Then we get back in the vehicle and roll up to the next check point.  The Soldiers get out to “do their thing” and I get out and “assume the position”.  Because I am a guest they have to wand me and my purse had to be searched.  No big deal.  But they rotate the guards and the guards who haven’t seen me always look at me like I’m crazy when they turn to see me standing there with my arms out and feet spread.  Just trying to do my part!!!  Now, don’t construe this as me being silly.  I take the security of our Soldiers and Camp Bondsteel very seriously.  It’s just that there’s no need for me to act like I don’t know what’s going on and to have them tell me each time what to do.

Since they are in the middle of a change of command I was able to see a couple of the “outgoing” commanders as well as meet 2 of the incoming ones.  Again, an absolute HONOR.  These men and women are busy yet wanted to take a minute to say hello to me and discuss what PTP, Inc. is doing in Kosovo

COL I and I were standing outside talking and a strapping young Soldier drove up, parked and began to go inside the building we were standing in front of.  I spoke, he spoke, he saluted COL I.  I noticed the Texas accent so I mentioned something about him just getting to Camp since I knew the Texans were “arriving.”  Long story but he is actually originally from Texas but now lives in California and is with the California National Guard.  He will be going home in about 3 weeks.  I asked where he lived in California and he told me.  Then he told me who he worked for as a civilian.  COL I and I both looked at each other with our mouths wide open.  Turns out this Soldier works for one of the largest publishers in the United States .  AND, he works in the EDUCATIONAL DIVISION!!!!  Yep, another one of those amazing moments that just keeps happening over and over again.  So, I told him about what PTP, Inc. is trying to do with regard to education and he gave me his email address at home.  I told him I would give him time to get home, spend time with his family, etc then I would be in touch!  Holy Smokes!!!

Deputy Municipal President Imeri had invited COL Iadimarco, SFC Pointer, SPC Gorman, SPC Pelliccio, Danny and me for dinner at his house tonight.  So, off we go slip sliding away on the icy roads.  I haven’t mentioned in any of my writings but during the week there were several incidents when we were all involved in pushing vehicles out of the ditches, etc.  Luckily we didn’t have that experience tonight.  We’d already done that a time or two today.

Mr. Imeri and his wife met us at the door.  We were asked to take our shoes off – pretty much a custom in Kosovo.  Now, when you are wearing Army boots it’s not such an easy or quick task.  But, the Soldiers have all gotten used to it and seem to have a race and to who can finish first.  I suppose it one of those “pride” things.  (A side note here about the taking off of the Army Boots – gotta tell you how proud I am of those men and women.  I’ve yet to see one pair of socks with holes in them!  HA HA HA)

We were shown in to the family room.   I knew that Mr. Imeri, ok, ok, ok, Gafa.  He wants me to call him Gafa.  So, from here on out that’s what it’ll be.  Easier to type anyway.  So, as I was saying, I knew that Gafa was Muslim.  No big deal.  I only mention that because I was surprised to see the most beautifully decorated Christmas tree displayed predominantly in one corner of the room.  And, I noticed that the room was lined with couches for sitting.  In many Muslims home, for those of you who don’t know, the living room is either lined with couches (more Western) or with pillows for reclining.  We met Gafa’s wife and son.  I fell in LOVE with is son who is about 8 years old.  So much so that the little guy, apparently, was afraid of me and scooted out of the room.  MAY have had something to do with me asking if he wanted to marry me.  Oops!!!  His wife is very attractive and, in Muslim tradition, asked about our families.  They always ask “in general” as per custom.  So, we each took our turn answering.  Then we met the 4 daughters.  And…………………………….the power went off.  Surprise!  Gafa has a small generator that lit the room we were in.  It had to be filled with gas 2 or 3 times while we were there.

Imeri family and me in front of their Christmas tree .

After a bit of visiting and enjoying some wonderful juice we were invited to dinner.   Gafa’s brother had joined us for dinner.  His wife, daughters and son (custom again) did not join us for dinner but, rather, stood by to serve us.  OK, I personally don’t like that but…………it’s THEIR custom and I choose not to question it.  I have this crazy kind of eating “issue.”  Can’t eat any steak, chicken, pork, etc unless it has been ground up.  Gafa had asked me what we’d like for dinner and I had told him anything so long as the meat was ground.   Down the middle of the table were platters of different kinds of salads that looked amazing.  The presentation was incredible!  We were each served a bowl of chicken soup.  Then came a couple of platters of roasted chicken.  THEN we were EACH given a platter with stuffed cabbage leaves, rolled beef with an incredible filling, a pasta dish with ground meat, a bread with a million flaky layers and a cheese filling, and 2 other dishes I don’t remember.  I think we all about died at the amount of food.  And, again, the presentation was unbelievable.  I commented to Gafa that the presentation was like something I had seen in a 3 to 4 star restaurant in New York .  He jokingly told me I must stop making comments like that or his wife might decide to move to New York and leave him alone to take care of himself.  We all got a laugh from that. 

So, there I sit having dinner by candle light with “my” Soldiers, Gafa and his brother.  What DID I do to deserve such a treat?  OK, the candle light wasn’t planned but…………………….who cares?

Dinner plate in foreground.  Salads in back.  Soup in lower right corner.

When we were all so darn full we could barely move (and most of our plates had enough food left for at least one more meal) we moved back to the family room.  His family moved to the dinning room to eat their dinner.  We visited for a few minutes.  It was getting late and I made apologies that we really had to go.  As we were beginning to hoist ourselves up from the couches (not an easy feat after all that food) Mrs. Imeri came out and spoke to Gafa.  Uh oh!  We hadn’t had desert, hot tea or Turkish coffee.   Out come the daughters with plates of dessert for each of us.  NOT dessert plates – PLATES!!!  Holy Cow!  One of the deserts was something I’d never seen before but it was fantastic!!!  The other was a pastry with a creamy (but not too sweet) filling.  Then more trays with the hot tea and coffee.  I think I’m gonna die!

After a little bit Gafa began to yawn.  Our “signal” to make a move out of there.  There is a VERY funny story that happened when we were all putting our boots back on but if I told it here I’d probably be hurt so, just laugh like you’ve never laughed before – make up some REALLY funny story and hate me for even bringing it up.  (You’re welcome for the omission, sir!)

Back to the Ilazi house slip sliding away on the icy streets, greetings with hugs and kisses.  In to the warm and toasty family room for hot tea then off to bed.  Let me tell you, one must be in shape to withstand these days in Kosovo.   

24 December 2005 - Kosovo

It’s Christmas Eve in the Balkans.  And, it’s a white Christmas.  Something this Southern Girl doesn’t ever remember experiencing.  In many ways it is kind of nice – in other ways I could live without it.  I remember many Christmases playing softball in the front yard in t shirts and pants.  I sure remember having ELECTRICITY AND HEAT on those Christmases when it was cold.  The Ilazis have a VERY small Christmas tree but with no presents under it.  Part of me hopes that they wait until tonight to put the presents under there.  Reality tells me there aren’t going to be any presents.  I sent several boxes of presents over a few weeks ago.  Danny decided to go ahead and let everyone open them within minutes of their arrival.  Darn him!  I was so looking forward to watching them open their presents.  Oh, well.  I’d mostly sent warm clothes, coats, blankets, etc. and they’ve been using them so – probably selfish of me to have wanted them to wait to open things they needed.  And, they didn’t even know I was coming!

Today and tomorrow are MY DAYS to do as I please.  Poor Danny.  He tried so desperately to convince me that I should see this person or that.  NOPE!!!  My plan is to cook a Christmas dinner for “my” Civil Affairs Soldiers and I’m going to get started on that today!!!  Besides, I’ve got to cook it on a wood stove.  Hmmmm.  This should be fun, challenging and down right hysterical.  Since I’ve been to Kosovo before I had the foresight to ship over a few boxes of “ingredients” that I knew I could not buy in Kosovo.  I wanted the mean on Christmas Day to be as close to “mom’s home cooking” for these Soldiers as it could be.  Ok, maybe it wasn’t a “few” boxes – there were a LOT of them but….

Before the cooking began we made 2 stops.  

As we were on our way to the first stop we had to pull over at the main Gate outside of Camp Bondsteel to wait for the other vehicle.  I heard the helos.  I was standing outside of the vehicle and suddenly there were 3 Apaches slowly flying over.  If you’ve seen an Apache flying in a movie it’s one thing.  To be standing directly beneath them as they fly in formation over you is quite another.  There are NO WORDS for the feeling.  I went from awe to thankfulness to chills.  What an amazingly intimidating ship.  Couldn’t help but think about the danger those pilots and crew often put themselves in.  My guess is that Kosovo isn’t such a dangerous “gig” for them but I also guess that most, if not all of them, have flown missions in countries where it is very dangerous.  It was a special moment.  I felt honored to be able to witness them only a few hundred feet overhead. 

First we went to Gate 5 – a checkpoint on the Kosovo/Serbian border to pick up Natalija.  Natalija is a friend of Dada’s who works at the Belgrade Stock Exchange.  She was instrumental in getting donations of medical supplies to treat the children in Kllokot and donations of coats for the children.  I’d heard so much about Natalija and couldn’t wait to meet her.  Turns out she had taken a bus for about 6 hours then a cab for about 40 minutes to get to the border.  Wowee!!!  This way of life just really gets me.  Natalija was at the border when we got there.  So, we hugged and hopped in the vehicles for our next stop – Kllokot.  It’s PARTY TIME!!!!

Natalija and Dada

When we got to Kllokot we turned off the main road towards the school.  We wound our way through the village.  As we rounded the final bend before the school everyone in my vehicle let out a gasp!  We were so taken by surprise no one even thought to take a picture.  The school yard was PACKED with children, parents, grandparents, etc.  Heck, there may have even been a few cows and donkeys there.  Too many people to really be able to tell.  When the children spotted us they came pouring out of the school yard and in to the street.  We had to stop the vehicles.  Hmmmm – is getting out really a good idea at this point?  Had to – had to move the little critters back so we could get the vehicles closer in order to unload the goods.  Total chaos but in a good way.  The children were smiling and yelling and jumping and hugging us.   They were hanging off of us.  There was a soccer game under way in the school yard with older boys and men.  It was incredibly festive and very touching.  Everyone except the drivers of the vehicles got out to move the kids back.  We got the vehicles close enough to unload but, ah, HOW do we get the stuff from the vehicles into the school through this bedlam?  Not to worry.  Steva came out, said something and the crowd parted like the red sea.  A few of the older children and the teachers helped us unload.  

They had designated one room for the party and had put several tables together in preparation.  We set about to open all of the goods and “dump” the cookies, candy, chips, pretzels, etc. on to paper towels on the table.  Then we poured cups and cups and cups of juices and soda.  During the process someone told me I should go look outside the front door.  I took my camera and walked to the front door.  The soccer game was still in progress out in the school yard but at the front door the children were all lined up by grade and were being orderly and patient.  Yep, sniff sniff.  I took a couple of photos then went back to help.  If those kids could be so darn good about this I didn’t want them to wait a minutes longer than necessary.  Confession – Little Gaga and Jovanna were inside with us the whole time.  They were our “quality control” for the goodies and did a darn good job.  We have tons of photos of them.

Children waiting at the door of the school in Kllokot to come in for the party.  Soccer game in progress in background

One of the young men who helped us is in about the 6th grade or so.  He poured drinks, helped wrangle the empty cookie, chip and pretzel bags in to our garbage area.  Then when it was time for the children to come in he took a seat.  Yes he did.  He took a seat until HIS class came in.  AND when his class came in he went to the back of the line.  I’m so in love with this young man.  There were several other instances when I was around him that his manners and kindness were so prevalent.  I don’t know his name but I know who he is and I intend to find him when I go back.  I want to keep up with him.

  Jovanna ,COL Iadimarco and the young man I fell in love with at Kllokot and intend to find when I return

Someone went to get the first group.  The Kindergartens came first.  The came quietly in to the room and their eyes about popped out of their heads.  They were told to take what they wanted.  OK, another sniff, sniff moment – they would take ONE cookie, ONE potato chip, ONE pretzel and ONE piece of candy.  Some of them would only take ONE period – not ONE of each.  OK, could we just review this?  We had HUNDREDS of cookies and MOUNDS of chips and pretzels, etc.  I was later told that many of these children had never even been to a party before.  Moving?  Touching?  Heart wrenching?  Oh, yea!  Why can’t I get this picture out of my head of American children reaching, grabbing, pushing and shoving? 

One of the classes at the party.

Class by class they came through in the same manner.  Well, OK, some of the 8th grade boys reminded me of being back home in America .  What the heck?  After all of the classes had come through there were still mounds of food left.  So, we let ‘em all come in.  Now it got a bit interesting.  It was FANTASTIC and I’d do it ALL over again!!!  Definitely the BEST Christmas Eve Day I’ve ever had in my life.

Two of the younger children at the party

After the party we cleaned up a bit – the teachers insisted we leave everything for them to attend.  So, we TRIED to get in the vehicles and go.  Not before more hugs, snowball fights, laughter, photos and hanging on.  I ran out of film.   Every one of the children wanted to 1) have their photo taken with me AND 2) take a photo with my camera.   Then there were the 10s of invitations to “come to my house.”  Sorry, I have Christmas dinner to cook…………..

Before we left Kllokot we met with the engineers again.  Since they are rotating out one group (CA) and another in (TX) the “old” group brought the “new” group out to see what needed to be done.  Quite an adventure attempting to walk around with all those little ones in tow.  At one point this lovely older lady came up to ask what we were doing.  Dada talked to her.  She was dressed in the older “customary” clothing with the headscarf, apron, etc.  She was beautiful.  I asked if I could have my photo taken with her.  She seemed a little apprehensive at first but Dada talked to her and then she smiled.  I LOVE the photo!  Anyway, after Dada told her why we were there she wanted to know if we were going to fix the sewer around her house “upstream”.  Dada translated to her that we would get to that “in time” but for now we were trying to fix it around the school for the children.  She was pleased with that.

COL Iadimarco and Engineers surveying the sewer problem in Kllokot

Local lady and me in Kllokot

As we walked back towards the school I noticed that some of the older boys from the school were hanging into the back of one of the trucks the engineers were in.  MISTAKE!!!!! – There was a box of MREs in the back of the truck.  We rescued them and the engineers decided it was time for them to leave.   Us, too.  Merry Christmas to my new friends!!!!  And my wish to all for a good night!

24 December 2005 - Kosovo - Part II - Back to Top

After the party at the Kllokot school we went back to the Ilazi house.  We got Dada and Natalija settled in to “my” room.  I’ll be bunking with Adelina (youngest daughter) tonight.  She is beside herself that I’m going to be sleeping in her room.  I made her PROMISE not to snore!

Danny, Dada, Natalija and I went to the Euro Market (grocery/department store).  Danny and I (OK, I) filled 2 carts and could barely push them.  When we were checking out they gave me a free calendar for spending so much.  We got a laugh out of that.  Then we got to the car and the laughing stopped.  I don’t know what kind of car Danny had but I know 2 things – it doesn’t always run and it’s TINY!!!  We ended up pushing things in here and there and holding the remainder on our laps.  PROBLEM – Dada, Natalija and I area all smushed in and Danny isn’t in the driver’s seat.  In order for him to get in the driver’s seat he has to crawl from the passenger side.  Uh oh!!!  When we got back to the Ilazi house we unloaded and put things away.  I doubt they buy most of the things I bought (butter, cream, “luxury” type items) and I know they don’t spend that much in a whole month.  It was fun to watch them as we unpacked.  They were very excited and oooing and aaaing over the stuff.  I bought “extra” for them to have after I am gone.

Then to the kitchen/family room.  I began unpacking the boxes of food I had shipped.  The stove was stoked and ready.  Not sure how “ready”.  Not sure how this baking/cooking is going to work but we’ll figure it out.  As I began unpacking boxes of cake mix, canned icing, canned vegetables, canned pie filling, bags of cornbread dressing mix (yep, from the South remember?  We wouldn’t eat that Northern “stuffing” for ‘nothing), marshmallows, etc. Dada began to laugh.  “You Americans really do have many things easy” she said with a laugh!!!  I even had one box full of aluminum pans.  I had shipped the ones for pies, for casseroles, for cupcakes, etc.  Danny’s mom was in shock!  I tried to explain that this was all disposable so that there wouldn’t be any clean up and she wasn’t having that.  My guess is that she’s still washing and using them.   Oh, and the zip lock bags – I had ever size.  Those were a HUGE hit.  They’d never seen those before either.  Reality check for me – big time!

Now I LOVE to cook and my kitchen at home is OFF LIMITS to anyone but me.  However, I had decided that we were all going to do this together and have a grand time.  We did.  There were a few occasions when I wanted to step in and just “do it” but I took a deep breath, got a glass of hot tea and let it roll.  Didn’t kill me.

We began with Adelina making cupcakes.  I showed her how to open the cake mix, measure out the liquids (oh, I brought the measuring cups) then to mix it.  Then we put the paper liners in the aluminum cupcake pans and in to the wood stove.  Hmmmm – no timer but, heck, how many minutes per wood log does it take anyway?  We’ll just keep an eye on it.  Danny’s mom would open the door every now and them and “move things around.”  I learned to do this before it was all over with.  While the cupcakes were baking I made the crusts for an apple pie.  Everyone was watching with great interest.  They have some amazingly wonderful desserts in Kosovo but I’ve never seen a pie.  Not sure they had either.  I even used some of the dough to make an apple design on the top.  Now Natalija was interested.  So, she took over and made the crust for the Mincemeat pie.  I showed her how to lattice the top crust and it looked PERFECT.  Then we made a cherry pie – Mrs. Ilazi’s favorite fruit.

Adelina and me making cupcakes

Cupcakes came out of the oven baked to perfection.  We set them aside to cool as we popped the apple pie in.  After the cupcakes were cooled I popped the top on the canned icing and showed Adelina how to ice them.  EVERYONE got involved.  Adelina was so proud of herself and we made a big deal out of it – as we should have.  Then we made chocolate chip cookie bars for SPC Kim Gorman.  She LOVES those.  I had sent them to one of the Soldiers in the last deployment and Kim had eaten some of them.  Just that day she had asked me to make her some and send them when I got back home.  Tada!!!  I had the stuff with me to make them TODAY and we did!!!  Luckily I had enough to make 2 batches since I burned the first batch in that wood stove.  There are no racks.  Everything sits on the bottom with the heat source to the left.  Oh well – if at first you don’t succeed…………

Dada made a waldorf salad (under my direction since she’d never seen one), we all made green bean casserole, sweet potatoes with marshmallows on top, deviled eggs (mom and dad even got in on the peeling of the hard boiled eggs), cornbread dressing, and a couple of other dishes.  It was so much fun.  The BEST part was that Mrs. Ilazi who is always buzzing around and attempting to wait on me and everyone else actually sat the whole night, relaxed,  laughed and enjoyed herself.  What a happy holiday this is.  We ended up “storing” several of the dishes on a ledge outside the second floor of the house.  Believe me, it was cold enough not to worry about spoilage!  Hot tea all ‘round then off to bed around 1:00 AM with visions of sugarplums all in my head!  Probably in Adelina’s, too, since I was bunking in her room.  She was beaming the last time I looked over before we turned off the light.

The “gang” in the kitchen/family room Christmas Eve while cooking Christmas dinner.

Natalija making crust for a mince meat pie while Dada looks on.

Tomorrow is Christmas Day.  I couldn’t be happier that I’m spending it in Kosovo with my “adopted” family, the Ilazis and with “my” Soldiers.  How much luckier could a girl get?  Bring on the reindeer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

25 December 2005 – Kosovo - Back to Top

Merry Christmas!!!!  Golly, I’m not even homesick.  That was nice!!!  Had electricity when we woke up.  That was nice!!!  Took a warm shower.  That was “normal.”  Froze to death when I got out.  That, too, was “normal.”  Trundled to the family room for hot tea.  That was FABULOUS!!!  No presents under the Christmas tree.  That was depressing!!!  Thought about all of the Soldiers stationed around the world and the families they are away from.  That was sad.

OK, I have to “confess.”  I’ve been pulling a prank on the Ilazi family and I did it to so many of them they are now doing it to unsuspecting visitors – and they have TONS of visitors!!!  One of my family’s traditions during the holidays is to always have chocolate covered cherries on hand.  Knowing that Mrs. Illazi’s favorite fruit is cherries and that they all LOVE chocolate, I brought a health supply of them with me.  When I gave Mrs. Ilazi her first one I TIRED to explain via hand signals to be careful about the oozing/dripping of the filling.  Oops – guess I didn’t use the correct hand signals.  She bit in and the juice went straight down her chin and to her shirt.  We laughed.  Then she called in one of the daughters and gave her a piece of candy but did NOT warn her about the oozing/dripping center.   The daughter screamed then laughed and Mrs. Ilazi bent over in laughter.  SOOOO good to see them laugh.  Don’t get to see that too often.  So, from then on every time someone new came in the room or came to visit the chocolate covered cherries were brought out and the room would fill with laughter.  Guess I’ll have to send more.  I sent 2 cases of microwave popcorn and 2 cases of hot chocolate mix to them back in October.  Can’t get either of those in Kosovo.  By the time I got there in December all of it had been consumed.  So, when I send more of that in a couple of weeks I’ll through in some more chocolate covered cherries

We’re going to Stubbla today to the Catholic Church.  Several of the Soldiers who are rotating out have donated blankets, etc. for the church to disperse to the poor.  That just kills me – the poor.  I always wonder just how they determine who is “poor” when the majority of the population is.  The Soldiers were late in picking us up.  At one point neither Danny nor Adelina (who speaks great English) were around to call so I wanted Danny’s sister to call Danny to find out where they were and when we could expect them……I needed to “talk” to Danny’s sister who speaks Albanian.  I would speak English to Dada who would speak Serbian to Mr. Ilazi (who speaks Albanian and Serbian) who would speak Albanian to the sister then back around again.  It was comical but got the job done.  Anyway, the Soldiers came and off we went. 

Stubbla is up in the mountains.  REALLY up in the mountains.  We had concerns about whether or not the vehicles would be able to make it up there.  You see, the roads hug the side of the mountain and there are few, if any, guard rails or retaining devices of any kind.  One slip and it’s, well, over the edge.  We took our time, put the vehicles in 4 wheel drive and low “something.” and made it just fine.  HOWEVER, the mass was already in progress so we chose to wait outside.  We had Santa hats with flashing lights, a few snowballs were thrown AND I taught SPC Pelliccio how to make snow angels.  Yes, we have photos.  OK, I do find it a bit sad that a young man from New Jersey had NEVER made a snow angel but he can now mark that off of his “things to do in life” list.

SPC Pelliccio and me making snow angels on Christmas Day in Stubbla

After the mass we were standing outside the front of the church “looking” for someone who spoke English.  We hadn’t taken an Albanian interpreter with us.  There were a lot of people standing very closely together visiting.  All of the sudden - BAM.  I jumped off of the ground.  Sorry, just a single fire cracker.  I felt really bad.  So, we continue standing there “looking” for someone who spoke English.  SOOOOOOOOOOO funny when I think back on it.  How in the world did we think we were going to “find” someone who spoke English simply by standing there.  So, I walked up to these 2 ladies and asked, “Do you speak English?”  One of them said, “Yes!”  Hurray.  So I asked her to help us find the priest – he was expecting us.  Guess what?  Seems the only word she knew in English was, “Yes.”  Hardy har har.  We finally found 2 men who spoke English.  They took us to the priest who took us to the rectory.  We went in to this room that had a table about 30 feel long with about 40 or 50 chairs around it and they asked us to have a seat.  THEN, out came to glasses and the Rakia.  Ok, refer to the night of Day 1 in Kosovo.  Yep, here we go again – Soldiers in uniform – glasses of Rakia.  Not gonna happen!!!  I only drank 2 glasses this time.  And, I’m not sure if my throat was still anesthetized from the first time or if this “batch” was just smoother but it sure didn’t burn as badly.  After a few pleasantries and the fact that most of the congregation was coming in the room for a meal we excused ourselves and asked where we needed to put the donations.  We went outside and they showed us this building “down the hill.”  The hill was so icy and slippery that we formed a human chain to “move” the boxes.  After we finished some of us were walking back to the vehicles to leave.  We heard a call to come help.  A truck had gone down the hill to the rectory and had gotten stuck.  Said we needed to come help because, as I heard it, there was a child in the back coughing.  Well, that wasn’t the case.  Actually, there was a child’s coffin in the back of the truck.  Ugh!  I hope there is really no need for me to comment further on that other than to say how awful I felt for that family!

As we started back down the mountain to Ferizaj the roads were a little dicey in the mountains.  One of our vehicles (not the one I was in) was very light.  We were in the lead and they were REALLY going slow.  At one point I got out of our vehicle and was walking faster than it was going.  We had a laugh over that. Luckily we were almost out of the mountains.

We had to get Natalija back to Gate 5 to catch her cab to take her to her bus to go back to Belgrade .  Not many things are “cut and dried” here in the Balkans.  Definitely a different way of life.   Only part of us went to Gate 5.  The others stayed behind to rest and visit since they have the day off.  Just before we left I pulled Danny aside to remind him to pick up the chickens at 3:30 PM .  I gave him 20 Euros and asked if he thought that was enough.  We had ordered 8 chickens.  Couldn’t get a ham or turkey.  At least we didn’t think we could get a turkey.  Danny said that he really didn’t think that would be enough –that these were “special” chickens.  Uh oh!  I’m afraid there has been a misunderstanding and we MAY be getting 8 turkeys.  He needs around 80 Euros.  Ladies and gentlemen - that’s close to $100.00 USD.  Uh oh!  I didn’t have the nerve to mention that to the Colonel and SFC Pointer as it would make me look like a turkey and give them ammunition to razz me!!!  Will “deal” with it when we get back – gotta scoot.

The good news is the roads in the valley are BETTER today.  The sun has been out and some of the ice and snow has melted.  Traveling time was much less than in the past few days.  Thank you!!!  Didn’t have to push anyone out of a ditch today.  Guess that’s Christmas present enough.

As we were coming back to Ferizaj to the Ilazi’s house for the Christmas dinner I got a call from SPC Gorman.  I had asked them to peel and begin cooking the potatoes with the intention that I would mash them when I got back.  Remember from yesterday?  I don’t like to share my kitchen.  Ok, Ok, it’s not MY kitchen but I’ve pretty much taken it over.  Besides, I don’t trust them to mash them correctly and with the exact amount of butter and cream required.   Anyway, SPC Gorman announced that the potatoes were cooking and wanted to know where the mixer was.  HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLO.  Remember where we are?  As many would say from my part of the country, “Ain’t no mixer!!!”  I told her to hold off and I would take care of it when we got back – we were about 30 minutes out.  Told her to pull the pot (yes, I just wrote THE pot) off to the side.  (Again, back to that wood stove “thing.”  Put the pot in once place and it cooks like heck.  Put it in another (off to the right side – NOT the left) and it just simmers.  SPC Gorman relayed my information and SPC Pelliccio starts grumbling about mashed potatoes and not creamed potatoes.  GET OVER IT!!!!!  Not gonna be any creamed potatoes and wouldn’t be any mashed potatoes if I hadn’t shipped the potato masher in advance!!!

It was at this point that I decided to “confess” to COL I and SFC Pointer about the chickens.  After I told them the story we were ALL concerned that there would be 8 turkeys waiting for us at the Ilazis house.  IF so we’ll run around giving them to the “poor” and have a good laugh.

When we got back to the Ilazi’s house and went in to the kitchen I laughed so hard.  SPC Pelliccio, Gorman and Quigley had peeled 20 pounds of potatoes and were cooking them all (refer back to my ONE pot comment above).  There were THREE pots of potatoes cooked.  Now do you understand why it is MY kitchen?  Guess I should have left better directions.  I just “assumed” they would know to cook only one pot.  Oh, well – maybe potato pancakes in the morning?

Now, about those 8 chickens – they REALLY were chickens.  Holy cow!!!  78 Euros for 8 chickens?  NOT EVEN IN AMERICA !!!  Danny explains that these are “special” chickens from a particular village.  Danny, they’re CHICKENS!!!  OK, I’ve FINALLY been HAD in Kosovo.  Guess it had to happen.  No worries – it’s Christmas and, quite frankly, I’m happy we don’t have to deal with 7 extra turkeys.

I asked Danny if he and his father would mind if I had COL I say the blessing before we ate.  They were honored for that to happen in their home.  So, COL I prayed and Danny translated for his family.  It was a very special moment to share we all of them – “family” and friends.  Danny had invited some of his friends to come share the feast with us. And, it was a feast.  I doubt they’ve ever had so much food on the table at one time.  When I stopped to think about how we do this at every holiday and other times through the year I was not sad or guilty but happy to be able to share this “tradition” with them.

Just about the time people were around the table (set up like a buffet) filling their plates – total darkness.  Yep, power outage.  Candles were lit.  Just about the time the candles were lit the lights came back on.  This occurred about 6 or 7 times over the next hour or so.  We finally just left the candles burning in anticipation.

After we had all eaten and had “bagged” the leftovers in those curious Zip Lock bag “things” we were sitting around visiting.  Danny was on a roll.  He was loud, singing, beating on drums and driving several of us crazy.  Now Danny is 20 but Danny CAN be bought.  When I was here last summer he got on one of his rolls, too.  So I taught them the “quiet game.”  I asked if they wanted to play the quiet game again.  Danny wanted to know what the prize would be.  I told him 10 Euro.  Hey, I knew he needed gas for his old beater of a car and I knew I was going to buy the gas so why not make this a win/win situation?  Danny IMMEDIATELY clammed up as did everyone else.  Now, Danny doesn’t exactly get this “quiet game.”  Within a few minutes everyone but he had talked.  He remained quiet.  He pointed and motioned and we understood that he was asking how long he had to be quiet.  I just COULDN’T tell him that he had already won.  So, I told him he had to be quiet for 15 more minutes.  The whole room applauded me.  As the minutes ticked off people were making comments in an attempt to make him talk, they were tickling him, etc.  His mother laughed so hard at his being quiet that she had tears running down her face.  It really was priceless.  Rarely do I see them so relaxed, so entertained, having so much fun.  And, we had declared that she was not to wash one dish or do ANYTHING all Christmas Day.  She finally bought in to that and I was pleased.  She smiled ALL day and sat on the couch like a queen on her thrown.

Well, Danny finally noticed the time on the clock but was still afraid to talk.  He wanted a declaration that he was the winner.  OK, guess we HAVE to allow this to come to and end.  Darn it!!!  This may seem very simple to anyone who reads it but it was the most absolutely fun time I’ve had on Christmas that I can remember.  The Soldiers were all relaxed.  They LOVED having home cooked food.  The Ilazis and their friends were stuffed and all really was good with the world.  To heck with electricity.

SPC Gorman had snuck some presents under the tree while I was getting the food on the table.  She had gotten candles (how appropriate) for Mrs. Ilazi and the girls.  I don’t remember what she had gotten for Danny and Mr. Ilazi.  She had also gotten me candles, a pewter figurine and candy.  We then took photos of different people with the Christmas tree.  OK, the tree was so small it didn’t “make it” in to all the photos but we knew it was there.

Pie, hot tea, Turkish coffee, candy and cookie bars.  The Soldiers went back to Camp Bondsteel .  We had more tea then off to bed. 

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night.

Mr. & Mrs Ilazi by their Christmas tree.

Adelina and me by the Christmas tree.  

26 December 2005 – Kosovo

Departure Day.

Adelina woke up with her sad face.  I HATE that.  Oh, it’s not one of those pity faces.  It’s truly a sad face and it cuts right to my heart.  I was already in the family room having tea with Mr. & Mrs. Ilazi when she came in.  She crawled up on my lap and put her arms around me.  Oh dear!  We just sat there for a few minutes and said nothing.  Best.  I don’t think I could have held it all together.  Then I assured her that I would be back soon.  Didn’t really seem to help.  The other sisters showed up soon after with long faces, too.  The WORST face to deal with is always Mrs. Ilazi’s.  A very painful look.  ARGH!!!!  We had tea and chatted a bit.  Mrs. Ilazi told me, through Adelina, how happy she was the Danny was getting the opportunity to come to America to get an education.  She then held her hand over her heart and said that she had dreamed and felt in her heart that this would happen for Danny and that she would never be able to thank me enough.  Her eyes filled with tears.  Mr Ilazi had tears rolling down his face.  Danny’s sisters all began to weep silently.  Then my eyes filled with tears.  I’m looking at a mother who loves her children, who wants what ANY mother would want for her children, who dreamed of opportunity for her children and NEVER imagined or expected she would see this dream/opportunity come to fruition.  Powerful and humbling. 

I went upstairs to shower and pack.  As I would pack a bag I would take it quietly downstairs.  Mrs. Ilazi has been MUCH better this trip about not “waiting” on me.  She didn’t wash my clothes every day but, then again, I was really good at hiding them from here.  Back in the summer she would wash my clothes EVERY day.  Anyway, I knew if I didn’t take the bags down she would and I just didn’t want that to happen.

As I was showering and packing I reflected on the week and how things were, especially with the Ilazis.  I’ve had kisses and hugs to last until I return.  I bought them all coats (they didn’t have any).  I had sent them warm gloves, hats, scarves, blankets, sweaters, etc in October.  I had gone grocery shopping twice and knew they had enough food to last at least a month without having to buy any.  I had, purposefully, cooked enough “extra” food for dinner last night to leave them a week’s supply of leftovers.  Danny’s car was full of gas.   Guess there’s really not much more I can do to thank them for their hospitality.

I’ve met new Soldiers that I’ve been supporting but hadn’t yet met and I got to see some of the Civil Affairs men and women in action – golly they are amazing, amazing, amazing.  And, I NEVER tire at the positive feedback, acceptance, appreciation and results they get from the locals.

I’ve had the privilege of visiting Camp Bondsteel .  NOTHING feels better when you are overseas than being on “American soil” and surrounded by our volunteer men and women in uniform.  NOTHING!!!

I met some of the Texas National Guard commanders who have just arrived for their rotation here.

I had been to Kllokot, seen the sewer problem, met the staff and children, had a party and made new friends.  I’d surveyed the situation with the engineers, met with the materials supplier. 

I’d gotten to spend more time with Dada.  I LOVE Dada and have so much respect for her.  I REALLY hope it works out for Danny and her to come to college in America .  May have to have Danny play that quiet game a lot!!!

I met Natalija which was a bonus I didn’t count on.  She is so very special and a HUGE support for Dada.  They have been friends for years.  I hope to spend many many more times with her either in Kosovo, Belgrade or America .

I’d seen Mr. Imeri and Mr. Zefi and Resul and INPO and other friends again and loved every minute I got to spend with them and get the paperwork filled out for the Sister Cities project.

I’ve seen my INPO friends and caught up on the projects they have completed since the summer as well as those they are working on now.

I’d met the fantastic people of Caritas Kosovo and am impressed with the amazing work they are doing across ethnic lines.

I’d had THE BEST macchiato (not nearly enough), and gallons of hot tea.

I’d had Rakia TWICE – probably can skip that from now on.

I’d been to Mitrovica.  Good to say I’ve “been” there.  Not sure how soon I want to go back.  Still WAY too tense there for my comfort level but I’m glad I went.

I’ve seen cows on the road, in the back of trucks, in wagons (not pulling them), in the back seat of cars (oh, yea).

I’ve eaten the world’s most expensive chickens.

I’ve made cupcakes and pies and cookies with Adelina (first time she’s ever done any of that).

I brought UNO cards with me and had several heated games while drinking hot tea at night.  I brought the UNO cards because it really doesn’t matter what language you speak to be able to play.  It was a good choice.  I’m leaving those behind.

Had snowball fights and made snow angels.

I’ve laughed more than I’ve cried (that’s an improvement from the last trip)

I have a couple of new projects and my batteries are “recharged” to continue this journey.

We packed my things in the vehicle.  I HATE saying good-bye to the Ilazis.  I HATE leaving them behind.  Oh, I know they will be OK but darn it – now is when I cannot help but say (which you’ve never heard me say) it’s just not fair!!!  They, like so many others, don’t deserve this.  They are too kind, too deserving, too smart and too descent to be living this way with so little hope in the immediate future.  The other night Danny expressed to me how he was concerned about his family “making it” without his salary as an interpreter when he comes to America for college.  I assured him I had factored that in to the costs and that I would NEVER allow them to “suffer” while he was getting his education.  NEVER!!!

We stopped by PoPo to have a macchiato and to say goodbye to Resul before I left Kosovo.  Resul wasn’t there.  BIG BUMMER!!!  Still had 2 macchiato, though.

At PoPo (Left to right) SPC Pelliccio, SFC Pointer, SPC Gorman, Dada , Danny, Me , COL Iadimarco

We drove north towards Prishtina.  We actually went to a restaurant in Film City that overlooks Prishtina.  I didn’t make it to Prishtina on this trip.  There’s just NEVER enough time to see everyone and do everything.

We sat down at the restaurant and the waiter came to take our drink orders.  I asked for a macchiato “this big” and held my arms out as wide as I could - last chance you know.  I then commented that they could put it in a soup bowl if they wanted to.  So, we’re looking at the menu and I’m trying to decide what I want to eat when the waiter puts this HUGE HUGE HUGE mug in front of me.  There were yelps from both ends of the table.  HA HA HA.  Seems the others simply ordered macchiato, cappuccino or soda and weren’t specific about their desires for BIG!!!  The BIGGEST cup of macchiato known to man was placed in front of me and the others yelled “no fair.”  GET OVER IT!!!  I had 2 more of those before we left.

Off to the airport.  I’m holding up just fine.  Confident that this departure will in no way be emotional like the last.  Now I know that I will be returning over and over and over again so it’s OK.  Chitter chatter in the vehicles.  Rehashing events, etc. of the trip.  Solemn moments and laughs. 

Got to the airport, through security, bags checked, boarding pass.  Time to take a few last photos.  SPC Gorman is over at a kiosk making a purchase.  I walked over.  She bought a bug wooden turtle to put in her vehicle as a symbol of going so slow I could walk faster the other day when we were coming down out of the mountains from Stubbla.  She had it wrapped so that the others couldn’t see it.  I laughed so hard.

Prishtina Airport (Left to Right)  

Dada, SPC Gorman ,SPC Pelliccio, Me, COL Iadimarco, Danny, SFC Pointer

  Prishtina Airport - Me “caring my weight” – SPC Gorman

SURPRISE!!!  I turned around and Resul was there.  He and I had missed each other at PoPo that morning when we stopped by for macchiato on our way out of Ferizaj to the airport.  He had been in Prizren.  I hugged him so tight.  What an honor for him to go out of his way to come to the airport to say good-bye.  However, another reminder of why I came to Kosovo under the radar – I was concerned that several people would come to the airport for my arrival.  Just not a necessary thing but……………that’s the way they are.

More photos.  Gotta have them with Resul, too.  I guess Kim called him when he wasn’t at PoPo and that’s why he came to the airport.  Thanks Kim.  VERY nice of you.  

Prishtina Airport - Resul and me

As we were chatting I made a comment about how much easier this departure was than the last one.  None of the people at the airport this time other than Danny had been with me at the airport the last time so they didn’t “remember” how I got emotional, stood up, hugged and walked away.  A few minutes later I was “done.”  The emotion snuck up on me and hit me like a brick.  My brain went into: 1) I’ve been privileged to spend time with these Soldiers and their families haven’t seen them for months – how unfair is that and 2) I’m leaving my Kosovo friends and family behind.  Done!!!  Tried to fight the tears.  Not working.  Thank goodness I had already done the hugs.  I turned to them all, said goodbye, turned back around and walked to security.  AFTER I had gone through security I turned back around one last time and they were gone.  That was good. 

Off to Vienna , Zurich (spent the night), Atlanta then home. 

Time to do some work on these projects and plan the next trip.  I think late March sounds good!!!