Dada and Adelina being “kids” at the Euro Market
USA to Prishtina
The dates of this trip were a moving target but I finally decided to depart on 2 April. I should have done 2 things BEFORE I made that decision – 1) I should have slowed down my schedule of my “real” income work and 2) I should have realized that was the day AFTER daylight savings time and I would be losing an hour of sleep. I suppose #2 didn’t really matter. What’s one hour in the grand scheme of things?
A dear friend of mine who is retired from Delta Air Lines gave me a pass for the USA to Zurich part of this trip. That was a HUGE money saver and I’ll never be able to thank him enough. Not only was it VERY inexpensive but I ended up getting Business Class seats to and from Zurich. What a wonderful treat that was. I did help with the ability to sleep on those long flights. Although it is a long trip and involves 4 flights on 2 airlines it went without any hiccups.
I actually arrived in Prishtina a few minutes ahead of schedule. As we were going through passport control (immigration) there was a VERY tall gentleman in the line next to me. I overheard the immigration officer asked this young man if he was coming to Kosovo to work. The young man answered that he was coming to play basketball. Huh? I handed my passport through to the immigration officer in front of me who asked me the same question but I kept and “ear” to the other conversation. Immigration officer #1 (with the young man) asked to see his UNMIK papers. The young man had NO idea what he was asking about. Since it was obvious this young man was from the USA I asked him if he needed any assistance – after all I am a PRO at entering Kosovo now! He said he would LOVE to have some help. So, I explained what UNMIK meant. He had no UNMIK papers. Turns out someone had talked him in to traveling to Kosovo to “see” if he wanted to move there to play basketball. I never saw him again but my guess is that it’ll probably be his first and last trip there. After we both moved through immigration towards baggage claim the young man approached me again. We had a brief conversation. I told him to expect a couple of things; 1) the people he encountered would be wonderful, warm and hospitable and 2) welcome to the closest environment likened to a third world country you’ve probably ever been in. I wish you could have seen his face. So, I gave him a brief story about the lack of dependable electricity and what happens when there is none. I grabbed my bags, wished him well and was on my way. I’ll always wonder what became of him but one thing is for sure – he won’t get rich playing basketball in Kosovo if there even is a team there. I doubt he’ll even make enough to afford the airfare home. I didn’t find anyone who knew of a team.
Grabbed my bags, went through the “nothing to declare” line at customs and was out the door. SURPRISE!!! No one there to meet me. Go figure – just like December. I’ve traveled thousands of miles and they are late. I reminded myself that I MUST adjust to Kosovo time. It’ll happen when it happens. The good news was that there was no ice and snow. It was overcast and chilly but nothing radically uncomfortable.
Oh, I hear Danny! Yep, there they are racing across the parking lot. Well, they aren’t ALL racing but they are heading my way! Golly I miss these guys/gals and always feel like the luckiest woman in the world when I get to see them and get big hugs!!!
It was overcast, cool and damp. The Balkan region has been experiencing excessive rains. There is flooding throughout the region. The Danube is at an all-time high – way above flood level. The good news is that it is NOT nearly as cold as it was in December and, aside from the mountain tops, I don’t see snow anywhere! It is SO good to be back in Kosovo. I have great expectation for this trip. I’m really in need of rest but, that will come “later.”
Kim, Anthony, Dada, Dani and Eric (LTC Holliday) came to the airport to pick me up. Deciding who to hug first was impossible. I don’t even remember who it was. Seeing them and their smiles made me forget my fatigue and gave me a huge burst of energy. I’d never met Eric before. I felt like I knew him since I’d heard so many great things about him and had been in contact with him via email prior to my arrival regarding both the trip and some projects he and I are working on together. Danny grabbed my bags and began dragging them to the vehicles. I hopped in the vehicle with Eric for the drive to Ferizaj and “hotel Ilazi.”
We took the back way to Ferizaj from the airport to avoid the traffic in Prishtina. Glad they were driving. I’ve been that way before but never paid attention – I’m always talking. Imagine that! It was nice to visit with Eric – to find out what’s going on, what’s being planned and to have the opportunity to get to know him better. About half way into the drive Eric told me that his father may be having heart by-pass surgery and he may have to leave in the next couple of days. I was terribly sorry to hear about his father’s health. I hate that he is going to be leaving but – family certainly comes first and I know he needs/wants to be with his mom and dad at this time.
Winter definitely did a “number” on the roads. If you’ve ever driven on many of the roads in Kosovo you might wonder how in the world I would know that since they are a mess on a good day. The potholes were EVERYWHERE. Some of them were big enough to swallow a small car and I’m NOT joking! “Why don’t they repairs them?” one might ask. Let’s see – NO TAX BASE would be the answer to that. Kosovo (in general) hasn’t come to the realization yet that in order to maintain and enhance the infrastructure you’ve gotta have a revenue stream from somewhere. With a society that was born into and grew up under Communist regimes that, like so many other democratic ideals, is incomprehensible.
I love the landscapes of Kosovo. The drive from Prishtina to Ferizaj is through rolling country areas. This is the valley region of the Province. The flora is beginning to green a little. I didn’t see ANY livestock on the road. That was refreshing!
We turned right from the shortcut on to the main road from Prishtina to Ferizaj. I was getting so excited about seeing the Ilazis!
About 15 minutes later we turned right at Benaf. About a half mile on one of the main streets of Ferizaj (if the streets have names I have NO idea what they are!). About a half mile of bouncing and being jolted to the core – after bobbing and weaving to avoid pedestrians walking in the street then another right on to the street where the Ilazis live. Uh oh! Trouble up ahead! The street is blocked by one of the oldest and smallest backhoes I’ve ever seen. Holy cow! Each time the guy digs a scoop the back end comes up off of the ground. PLEASE don’t let that backhoe flip over on him and all the men standing around watching! Oh, they see us. One more scoop. The backhoe moves forward – TOWARDS and OVER the hole – just enough to allow us by. Yep, Welcome to Kosovo! Where is OSHA when you REALLY need it?
We parked on the street in front of the Ilazi’s home. They have begun preparation for the flower garden they are planning in the front yard. I sent some flower seeds and bulbs to them a few weeks ago because I knew they were planning the garden. Hopefully they haven’t planted the seeds yet. Seems a bit too cold and wet yet. Here they come!!!! Everyone comes pouring from the house. Hugs, kisses and “O’Leta” exclaimed from everywhere.
Up the walkway, up the steps the jostle for a place to stand and take off shoes and boots. Shoulder to shoulder. Fanny to fanny. Line the shoes and boots up in a row then in the house. All part of the experience! Up the stairs to my room. OK, it’s really Fitore’s room but, once again, she has been kind enough to vacate it for me. I was happy to see that she didn’t take all of her things out this time. While I appreciate her giving me a room to myself I’ve talked and talked to her about not having to remove ALL of her belongings – she should come and go as she pleases when she needs something. Ah, we ARE making progress. I’m NOT a visitor anymore!!!
The hot tea was steaming on the stove and I was ready for it. We all sat around drinking tea, saying hello over and over, smiling, laughing and chatting. Unfortunately Mr. Ilazi’s (Bashkim’s) aunt is VERY ill and Mrs. Ilazi’s (Naille) mother is sick, too. That news really put a damper on things. Bashkim’s aunt is not expected to live much longer. It is customary in Kosovo for the family to keep vigil over the bed of the person who is dying. So, Bashkim left soon after my arrival to be with his family. He had come home just for my arrival. I hated that he did that but I don’t think I could have convinced him otherwise even if I had known in advance. He is such a kind and wonderful man. Naille’s mother has been in the hospital but is home now. While she is ill her illness is not critical like Bashkim’s aunt – thank goodness.
Anthony had class tonight so he and Eric were not able to stay long. We bid them good bye. I went upstairs to bring down the “goodies.” I had brought more clothes for Fitori, Arta and Adelina. I also brought necklaces and earrings for the ladies. Bashkim got cigars. I know, I know – NOT healthy. No, they aren’t but he LOVES getting them so that’s just the way it will be. Everyone was happy with their gifts. I went upstairs to pack.
I announced that Naille, Adelina, Kim, Dada and I were going to the Euro Market to grocery shop. Danny didn’t like that at all. Too bad!!! The least I can do for their hospitality is to buy groceries for the week. When I’m there I eat and every day the Soldiers either eat breakfast or some meal or snack and we all drink tea, coffee and juice. I had Adelina get a piece of paper and we made out a grocery list in Albanian. OK, I’m not going to be ANY help on this one so I sure hope they remember to put everything on the list I want as well as what they need.
We load into the vehicle and away we go. Mrs. Ilazi has never been to the Euro market. She was VERY excited about this outing. As it turned out this outing was worth the trip to Kosovo!!!
When we entered the store I decided we should grab 2 grocery carts. The carts in Kosovo are smaller than those at supermarkets in America. I learned on the shopping trip in December that one cart was not nearly big enough for everything. So, we started this big adventure with two. Euro market is a three level store. Floor one is electronics, cosmetics, cleaning supplies, a coffee shop, fresh fruits and produce and an area with cases of fruit juice and milk. We headed straight for the juices and milk which are on the way to the fruit and produce. A case of sour cherry juice (MY favorite and also Mrs. Ilazi’s favorite), a case of orange juice and a case of milk. The milk in Kosovo does not require refrigeration until after it is opened. I have no idea the actual volume in each carton but I’m going to guess it’s about a quart. 12 carton’s to the case.
Once we had those in one cart we headed on down the aisle to the fruits and produce. Naille (Mrs. Ilazi) and I were shopping. She was like a kid in a candy store. Adelina was supposed to be there with the list and to interpret but was not around. I heard hear squeal and looked back to see her sitting in a shopping cart with the list while being pushed by Dada. These kids don’t often get to be “kids” so I couldn’t help but stand back and smile.
Dada and Adelina being “kids” at the Euro Market
Speaking of kids – Naille was jogging from aisle to aisle and from corner to corner. She was having a grand time and I was thrilled to see it. We really do take so many things for granted back at home. She thanked me over and over and over. The list became insignificant. We filled 4 carts. Three were full of basic food items and fresh fruit. One was full of JUNK food and soda!!! A few Euros later and out to the vehicle. Hmmmm. Where do we put all of this stuff? “Stuff” we did and then we stuffed ourselves in among all of it.
Back at the Ilazi’s everyone came out to help unload. Kim, Dada, Danny and I left them to put everything away and went to PoPo for much deserved macchiato. I’d been in country for SEVERAL hours and that’s all I wanted to end a perfect day. As we entered several of the young adults came up to give us hugs. We found a place to sit. As usual the music was WAY to loud for someone my age. I just don’t enjoy having to YELL to communicate anymore. We had a few coffees then I was dropped off for the night. Requisite hot tea then off to bed. I suppose it’s a good thing that caffeine doesn’t seem to affect my ability to sleep.
KFOR arrived to pick me up. Naille had prepared breakfast. She’s LOVES making breakfast for KFOR. For some reason when KFOR comes to breakfast it’s always soup. But, that’s what they like. So we had soup, cheese and hot tea or Turkish coffee. I love starting my day at the Ilazi house. Back at home we don’t eat breakfast together – just rush, rush, rush for everyone to go there separate ways.
Now about the cheese – in the “old” days Naille just had cheese. These days there are three flavors of cheese – regular, pepper and some other kind. Seems some of these KFOR people are becoming a bit “fussy’ about their cheese. HA HA HA Good thing we stocked up last night at the Euro Market!
Down the stairs to wrestle for room to put on our boots. It’s still overcast, wet cold and muddy out. Into the vehicle and off to Mr. Imeri’s office for our first meeting of the day. I wasn’t feeling so well today but chalked it up to not having much sleep prior to the trip and then the trip itself. Oh well, life must go on!
I was so excited about the news we had for Mr. Imeri. I had also asked that Mr. Zefi join us for the meeting. I have such a wonderful relationship with both of them and there is an absolute trust between the three of us. Mr. Imeri knew I was coming this time but his smile could not have been any bigger when I walked in to his office. Big hugs all around then – poof – off went the power. We ordered coffee. Juice was brought in.
I began to tell Mr. Imeri and Mr. Zefi about how I remembered them telling me during my first visit that the educational system in Kosovo was suffering. I remembered how Mr. Imeri was passionate that the children of Kosovo be able to obtain a good education so that their futures could have hope. So, I set about to tell them, via Danny’s interpretation, that help was on the way!!! I told them about Dr. Robert Anderson. Dr. Anderson is the MOST amazing man I have met in years. To tell all about him would take pages. Suffice to say he will be a HUGE asset towards assisting the Municipality of Ferizaj then hopefully, all of Kosovo get back on track in their school systems. I imagine that many who read that statement will think I’m overstating the facts but trust me – in time you will see what I mean.
Dr. Anderson is scheduled to travel to Kosovo in late July 2006 to conduct seminars/workshops with 125 elementary and high school teachers and administrators in Ferizaj. We are also planning to invite some teachers/administrators from other neighboring municipalities to assure a multi ethnic atmosphere. The scope of Dr. Anderson’s seminars/workshops is to gain information regarding the physical as well as educational needs of the school system along with determining the level at which the students have achieved an education. Furthermore he will asses the needs of the teachers and their observations as to the support the parents give the students. Once Dr. Anderson has completed the seminars/workshops he will return to the USA and, with the help of a major University, asses the data and determine in which areas to begin working and what can/should be done in order to assist in improving the educational system. Dr. Anderson has a proven track record of this in American schools as well as schools overseas.
Finally I told them that Dr. Anderson is stockpiling educational materials and books for both teachers and students in a warehouse. He intends to fill the warehouse prior to his July visit and, with the help of PTP, Inc. we HOPE to have the materials airlifted to Kosovo for all of the schools in Ferizaj.
During the meeting the Municipal President came in to say hello. I had not met him before. He was busy with other meetings that morning but wanted to step in and thank us for coming. It was nice to meet him albeit briefly.
It was a good meeting. It was GOOD news. I was very pleased at their reaction and their excitement about this. Tomorrow we will meet with the Director of Education for the municipality of Ferizaj and fill him in. It was important to me that Mr. Imeri be the first to hear the news.
As the meeting was wrapping up Mr. Imeri asked if I would like to have lunch with Mr Musini the Municipal President of Vitina. We had planned to have lunch with Mr. Imeri and Mr. Zefi but in Ferizaj. Now we are off to Vitina. WELCOME TO KOSOVO!!! Schedule? What is a schedule around here? I made the decision that we should go. I suppose many of the Municipal and Deputy Municipal Presidents are hearing about PTP now and are interested in meeting us. And, the DP of Vitina is a good friend of Mr. Imeri’s. Off we go!
I decided to ride in the vehicle with Mr. Imeri to Vitina (about 30 minutes away). Danny came with us to interpret. As we drove the “back route” from Ferizaj to Vitina we would quickly slip past little villages here and there. I never get used to seeing the villages that were totally destroyed either by burning or bombing prior to and during 1999. I hope I NEVER get used to seeing that. I always wonder what happened to the families in each of the houses. While I know the majority survived I wonder if they were all able to stay together or reconnect after the mass exodus from Kosovo during the refugee stage. And, I remind myself over and over that much of this occurred only 7 short years ago when I was in my little “bubble” and didn’t even pay attention to the news to realize what these people were going through. It is humbling – VERY humbling. I suppose one of the emotions that strikes me most is that I have yet to run across ONE person (outside of Mitrovica) that makes me feel unwelcome and uncomfortable about being here. Admittedly, there has been no one single person in Mitrovica who made me feel uncomfortable either but the whole “feeling” there is intense. As I mentioned in a journal during my December 2005 trip – Mitrovica is just not an area I feel the need to spend much time in yet. I know they will work things out there but I’ve heard since returning this time that they have closed the bridge between the two “halves’ of the city due to violence. I hated to hear that!
We turned down the street towards the Municipality office. There was no parking so we “made” a parking space. UGH!!! Rule of Law people! Civil Society! Anyway, it was raining and it was a cold rain so I suppose I didn’t really mind TOO much that we were parked illegally. KFOR pulled up behind us. I ran in the building and didn’t notice what they were doing or where they went. Mr. Imeri, Mr. Zefi, Danny and I went up to Mr. Musini’s office. Introductions were made and we sat. Mr. Musini is a very kind looking man. His demeanor appears to be very warm and caring. Hmmmm – no KFOR yet. Guess they are still looking for parking. Orders were taken for coffee/macchiato and we chatted. As we were chatting one of the KFOR Soldiers came in. Miscommunication – OK, no communication! KFOR thought we were just stopping by to pick Mr. Musini up and go straight to the restaurant. They should know better than that by now. In Kosovo you have a coffee meeting to “plan” the next meeting!!! We took a few photos then out to the vehicles for lunch.
Left to right: Municipal President of Vitina, Mr. Musini, journalist Mr. Zefi and unknown man in Mr. Musini’s office
We left Mr. Musini’s office and stopped off at the Catholic church in Benac (sp?). I’m not sure who really organized this stop but…….we were there so in we went. The priest gave us about a 30 minute history of the church. As I’ve said in prior journals I’m not of the Catholic faith. It is always nice to be invited to visit another place of worship but I’m not really sure why I keep getting all of these tours of Catholic churches???
Our next stop was lunch. I didn’t write down the name of the restaurant but I did remember that it was one that proudly displays a flag of the 432nd Civil Affairs Battalion that has had members serve in several of the 12 rotations to Kosovo. Sure enough – it was hanging center stage in the restaurant.
I hope I can remember how to get back to this restaurant. The setting is very lovely. There is a beautiful stream that flows in front of the restaurant. We crossed a VERY small bridge to gain access to the property. To our right as we approached was a gorgeous waterfall. I can only imagine how cold that water is. Sure it has been raining but I imagine that part of the water source is also melting snow. I’m curious to see old Duke once the skies clear. Duke is the highest mountain peak in Kosovo. I have been up Duke to the ski resort near Brezovica but only during the Summer months. I’m told he is covered in snow right now.
Anyway, we entered the restaurant and were taken to a large table in a corner near the fireplace. Unfortunately the fireplace had no fire in it. I made a comment about being cold and wishing for a fire so the owners granted that wish. I have a photo (see below) of MP Musini stoking the fire for me. I kept joking with him that if he wasn’t sitting between me and the fire I might be getting a bit more heat. He laughed at my humor. Actually I was not being as “humorous” as he thought – I was being SERIOUS!!!
MP Musini stoking the fire during lunch.
We had a nice lunch. MP Musini was telling me facts about his municipality. One “fact” is that they grow the best potatoes in all of Kosovo if not the Balkans. After we had eaten our lunch they brought out platters of roasted potatoes. I was already STUFFED but I had one to be nice. DMP Imeri came to my rescue by mentioning that he didn’t really like potatoes!!! Since MP Musini and DMP Imeri are friends I found that to be amusing.
Mr. Musini is, like many of Mr Imeri’s friends and contemporaries I have met, very engaging and kind. I am continually amazed at how much I can “read” from the eyes of these people. We may not speak the same language but their eyes speak volumes to me.
During lunch I mentioned that I would like to be able to find a decorated bottle of Rakia to take back home with me. Rakia is a homemade alcoholic drink that I compare to moon shine. No, I haven’t ever had moon shine but I’ve heard about it. I have had Rakia and I just have to believe they are related!!! After our meals had been served a gentleman (who obviously had been sent on a “mission”) approached Mr. Musini with a package. Mr. Musini presented it to me. It was a bottle of brandy that was decorated to resemble a tree. On either side of the bottle were 3 holders made of tree bark that was glued to the bottle and each held a shot glass. I was touched at Mr. Musini’s kindness. He did, however, warn me NOT to drink the brandy as he couldn’t guarantee that it had been made in sterile conditions. Oh, thanks!!!
During lunch Mr. Musini attempted to convince me that PTP should be doing more work in his municipality (Vitina) – that Ferizaj didn’t need us as much as Vitina did. He was always smiling and glancing towards Mr. Imeri when he would say those things. I told him that Ferizaj is my FIRST love and that he will just have to take a back seat to Mr. Imeri! Mr. Imeri smiled and pushed his chest out until I thought he would burst every button on his shirt. It is so good to see such wonderful cooperation between some of the elected officials in Kosovo. It makes me sure that PTP’s efforts will result in positive ways and that our efforts will be appreciated by some.
When the waiter brought the check for the lunch I attempted to take it. Mr. Musini wasn’t having that AT ALL! I TRIED to explain that PTP would be paying for it and not me personally – well, OK that was a bit of a stretch since about 90% of PTP money spent to date has been mine – but that’s beside the point. I know that these elected officials at the municipality level make around 225 Euros a month. That’s “about $275.00. I also know that the municipalities do not have budgets for lunches, etc. Well, no matter how I attempted to broach this in a way so as not to insult Mr. Musini he wasn’t accepting my offer. So, I offered to settle this the INPO way. I challenged Mr. Musini to an arm wrestling competition. Danny explained to him what I wanted to do and he put his elbow on the table and away we went. I suppose he was toying with me – surely he was – because I could have “taken” him at any moment. Luckily I noticed just before I went in for the take down that several tables were watching our competition. I didn’t think it would be such a grand idea to slam his arm to the table so I “let” him take me down. I wish I had a photo of the faces of some of the locals!!!
We said our good-byes in the parking lot and I got in the KFOR vehicle for the ride back to Ferizaj. Once in Ferizaj we stopped at a couple of hotels to “inspect” them for rooms to be used by staff and volunteers for our summer projects in Kosovo. The Hotel Bolero was very nice. Admittedly I was a bit surprised at how new and clean it was. 25 Euros per night – a bargain in my book - especially since they have 24 hour electricity (generators on site), showers in each room - as well as air conditioning units in the rooms AND an elevator. Hello Europe – I’m seeing a bit of a glimpse. Where have they been hiding this hotel?
Off to Camp Bondsteel for a couple of errands. While I was with Anthony on our errands Kim slipped off to the office to discuss her internet – OK, lack of internet! She’s really been having problems with that in her room. They charge an exorbitant amount to each Soldier who chooses to have internet in their rooms. Ah, my hero Kim! She finagled them in to giving her 2 weeks free for her troubles and promised to have someone “right out” to investigate and fix the problem. “Right out” – let’s see, Kim is returning home in July so, according to Kosovo standards she MAY have her internet fixed before she leaves. HA HA HA
Home to the Ilazis for a little chatting and tea then to bed early tonight. I just cannot seem to get my energy up this week. Old age? Nah!
Kosovo 5 April 2006 - Wednesday
Thankfully today was not an early start. I did sleep well last night but when I got up I just felt awful.
KFOR arrived in time to have breakfast “soup”, cheese and tea.
Our first stop this morning was at the Greek Camp. LTC Holliday and SSG Vowell had arranged for me to meet the outgoing Greek Commander LTC Papagiannoulis. The Greeks have been VERY helpful with the sewer project in Kllokot. They used their dump trucks to haul several loads of gravel to Kllokot to put on the street once the construction was complete. And, they have also partnered with the American KFOR Soldiers on several other projects – many of which are on-going. I just wanted to offer my thanks to them for all of their contributions both to PTP’s project and to their continued assistance and support of the American troops.
We rolled up to the gate. The guards came and inspected the KFOR badges and my passport. They took the interpreter’s KFOR IDs and my passport. The KFOR Soldiers got out of the vehicle to clear their weapons before we entered the camp. As we rolled through the gate I “loudly” mentioned to Anthony that they had MY PASSPORT!!! He said we’d get it on the way out. I said something along the lines of “you don’t understand! I don’t surrender MY AMERICAN passport to ANY foreign nation!!!” Hmmm, we kept rolling so I guess I do this time. A VERY uncomfortable feeling! VERY! The last time I did that was in Vienna, Austria when I boarded a hydrofoil to travel down the Danube into Czechoslovakia in 1980 when it was still behind the iron curtain. I was too young/stupid/foolish at that point in my life to realize what I had surrendered. Luckily on both occasions the passport was returned to me.
Once inside the camp we parked near the commander’s office. We had been instructed to wait for SSG Vowell since he knows LTC Papagiannoulis personally. Mercy it was cold and windy. HOWEVER, it was not so cloudy and Duke was spectacular!!! He is covered with snow and looks quite lovely I must say!
SSG Vowell arrived and we went inside. LTC Papagiannoulis came in shortly and we followed him to his office. He has three phones on his desk and at least one cell phone but I think two. Why do I mention that? Because one or the other of them kept ringing almost the entire time we were in his office. He finally just let them ring to visit for a few minutes. He offered us coffee. When we agreed that would be nice he picked up one of the phones and, apparently, requested a Soldier to come take our order. In a matter of seconds a young man appeared at the door, came to attention and stomped one of his feet LOUDLY on the floor. Cool! SSG Vowell ordered a Frappe. I inquired as to what that was. He suggested I order it. I did. I was glad I did. It was DELICIOUS!!! Dada told me she knows how to make those. Can’t wait for her to get to America and make me SEVERAL a day. As the young Soldier who delivered the frappes left the office he turned around in the doorway and did the “stomp” again! Cool, again!
I continue to be amazed and PLEASE at the presence of our American flag in offices other than US office throughout Kosovo. Sure enough LTC Papagiannoulis had one right next to the Greek flag. I also find that in every instance of seeing the American flag in office throughout Kosovo, whether military or civilian, they are always second in line. LOVE IT!!!
I thanked LTC Papagiannoulis for all of his assistance and support and for the great work that the Greeks have done as part of KFOR. He was SO busy that I then announced that we would leave him to his work. It was his last full day in country and I can only imagine how busy he really was. I appreciated him taking/making the time to meet me.
LTC Papagiannoulis, Commander, and me in his office at the Greek camp in Kosovo. (Apologies for this photo. I really felt, well, darn awful!!!
Left to right – SPC Quigley, LTC Papagiannoulis, SSG Vowell and me in the Greek Commander’s office.
As we exited the camp I DID get my passport back!
Our next stop of the day was for lunch at Route 66. Yes my friends - that is the name of a chain of “diners” in Kosovo. There are 3 that I am aware of. One in Prishtina and 2 in Ferizaj. Go figure. The motif is that of a 60’s diner in America. The menu features items such as hot dogs, milk shakes, nachos, etc. I’d eaten there before and knew the food was, well, OK but NOT like an American diner. Mr. Zefi’s nephews own the diner and had invited us back during my last trip to Kosovo. So, we decided to have a “business meeting” there.
When we pulled up and parked I felt just absolutely awful. I really did NOT want to go to the meeting. That is NOT like me AT ALL! I just wanted to go back to the Ilazi’s house and crawl in to bed. Later……..I’ll do that later!
Mr. Ahmet Gajtani, Director of Education for the Municipality of Ferizaj met us for lunch. Everyone ordered – well attempted to order as they were out of most of the items we had all talked about ordering prior to our arrival. I had my mouth set on a milkshake. Sorry, no ice cream today. Ok, I’ll just have a macchiato. Sorry, our machine is broken. Fine! Bring me sour cherry juice! Then we set about to find out some facts about the school district.
I won’t regurgitate the facts here as I have them in another document but there educational budget, facilities and supplies are abysmal at best. Just a few facts that will lead you in the right direction on this. One of the elementary schools has 4000 students. Those students attend in 4 shifts beginning at 7:30 AM and ending at 8:00 PM. Each class lasts for only 30 minutes when the law requires 45. They cannot physically allow 45 minute classes! This year alone 12 students have been killed while walking to school as there is no transportation system (buses of any kind) and there are no sidewalks. There are 65 TOTAL computers for 28,000 plus students. All of these computers have been donated by KFOR troops who left them when their rotations were over. There are no libraries. There are no learning tools. There is no budget for practically ANYTHING! The school district is required to supply books for each of the children but has no budget with which to purchase them. And on and on and on.
When I told Mr. Gajtni about Dr. Anderson’s proposed trip he was elated!!! It IS a small step but a small step that, in my heart, I know will generate HUGE results down the road.
Left Photo: Danny, DMP Imeri, Mr. Gajtani, Businessman, Mr. Zefi and Leta discussing Dr. Anderson’s seminars/workshops scheduled for July 2006
Right Photo: DMP Imeri and Director of Education, Mr. Gajtani at the lunch meeting to discuss Ferizaj’s school system
After the lunch meeting we drove to the INPO office for a press conference to announce Dr. Anderson’s and to bring everyone up to date on what PTP is doing and what plans we have for the future. I can do this, I can do this! Just get through this then I can sleep! Ugh! Hurry up!!!!
The press conference went well and everyone was pleased with the news that we had to share. DMP Imeri, Albulena (INPO Press Officer) and I were the panel being interviewed. Albulena began with an opening statement. Then Mr. Imeri made the announcement then I made a statement and took a million questions.
Leta, DMP Imeri and Albulena prior to press conference announcing Dr. Anderson’s seminars/workshops for teachers and administrators scheduled for late July 2006
We had a couple of presentations schedule after the press conference but I just couldn’t do it. INPO wanted to present some project proposals to me as well as update me on all of the amazing and useful projects they are working on and have planned. My body said, “NO!” I went back to the Ilazi’s and took an hour and a half nap. I could have slept through the night but had a dinner scheduled to thank Civil Military Operations for their support of PTP, Inc as well as the Engineers for their work on the Kllokot project.
Off we went to Natural. That’s the name of the restaurant. I’d eaten there on a prior trip. The food was good, the service was GREAT and it was near Camp Bondsteel so it wasn’t a long trip for the Soldiers. I am a STICKLER about being on time. We were driving down the road about 5 minutes out from the restaurant and about 10 minutes early. Anthony’s cell phone rang. It was one of the officers calling to inquire as to our location since they had already arrived at the restaurant. Holy smokes!!! Someone in Kosovo is ON TIME!!! This just doesn’t feel right! Tee hee!
LTC Perez and his driver, MAJ Villanueva, MAJ Chelone, 2 of the engineers, and some of the CA Soldiers attended. I had invited COL Smith but she was on leave. MAJ Villanueva, her assistant, attended in her place. I was sorry that the timing kept COL Smith from joining us but was pleased that MAJ Villanueva took the time to stand in for her. It was great to see LTC Perez again as well as to meet MAJ Villanueva. I had met one of the engineers back in December when we went to survey the site in Kllokot but not the other one who came tonight. It was a FANTASTIC group. I really enjoyed spending the time with them, learning about what they are all doing in Kosovo and getting to know them a bit better.
My dinner “dates” - Front row L to R – LTC Perez, MAJ Villanueva, SPC Gorman, MAJ Chelone / Middle Row L to R – Unknown, SPC Pelliccio, Me
After dinner I went back to the Ilazi’s. Had a quick cup of hot tea then OFF TO BED!!!
Another good day!
Kosovo – 6 April 2006 - Thursday
Our first meeting this morning was in the Serbian village of Vrbovac with Mr Kogic. He is the Project Manager of Finance for the Community Municipal office in Vitina. Our purpose for meeting with him was to see if he could assist us in finding a manufacturer from which we could purchase Kindergarten furniture for the school in Kllokot. During the last rotation SFC Pointer’s elementary school in California held a fund raiser that’s sole purpose was to raise funds for furniture for the Kindergarten in Kllokot. PTP, Inc. was asked to facilitate the purchase since 1) the school in California had no way of being able to make the purchase and 2) the Soldiers aren’t allowed (as I understand it) to spend money like that no matter what the source. PTP, Inc. was happy to be asked to assist and just as happy to be able to do so.
Dada (Serbian interpreter), Mr. Kogic and me discussing potential sources for
Kindergarten furniture.
Mr. Kogic welcomed us in to his office. He immediately offered us juice and coffee. He had been contacted by KFOR prior to our visit and was aware of why we were coming. I was pleased that he had been making inquiries about the furniture and knew of a man who might be helpful. He made a call and arranged for that man to meet us at the school to see the room, meet with the superintendent and the Kindergarten teacher.
Before we left his office Mr. Kogic inquired as to whether or not PTP, Inc would be interested in assisting the village of Vrbovac in establishing an internet café for, primarily, the students to use as a source of information from the “outside” world. I knew exactly what he was talking about. These young kids have NO link to the outside world. They have no high school in their village. I have no idea how far it is to the nearest high school but it doesn’t matter how far it is – they have NO transportation by which to get there. This idea about internet cafes to link people in areas such as Kosovo and so many other areas around the world is NOT a new idea. I asked Mr. Kogic to get a project proposal to him and assured him I would do what I could to find funding for them.
ARGH! ARGH! ARGH! How ARE the youth of Kosovo supposed to even expect a future if they don’t have access to a BASIC education NOR to an education about living in a free society. The people in this Serbian village like most of the other Serbian villages in Kosovo do not have freedom of movement within Kosovo. Yes, the issue is being addressed. The “political” part of me understands this. The HUMAN I am cannot comprehend or conceive this notion. ARGH! ARGH! ARGH! How terribly frustrating! I meet men like Mr. Kogic, Mr. Imeri, Mr. Musini, etc. etc. etc. who are from “both sides of the fence” and get along. It only takes a handful of, please pardon me here, assholes to make life miserable for so many.
As we made our way from Vrbovac to Kllokot we drove though a string of Serbian villages and settlements. I was, again, struck by the amount of destruction that remains. I’d heard that many of the destroyed villages and settlements are beginning to be cleared to allow for rebuilding. I think the one they are going to work on next is on the road from Ferizaj to Prishtina. That one is quite a large settlement and the destruction is mind boggling.
Anyway, we stopped at a grocery store before we went to the school. We were on a “mission.” We wanted to buy coffee for Grandpa (more on that later in the post) and I wanted to buy cookies for the Kindergarteners. As we drove to towards the school I had my window down. Some of the children were walking along the road. A couple of them called my name. I was shocked! One of the little guys from December saw me and shouted out, “Leta Peta!” He is a MESS!!! He SHOULD have been in school but, obviously, was playing hooky that day!
As we parked and walked on to the school grounds I was THRILLED to see that there was no sewage standing on the grounds or anywhere near the school yard. Actually, I was happy to see that there was no standing water at all due to the amount of rainfall they have had in the area over the past several weeks. YIPPEE!!! The project DID repair the sewer around the school!!! I am so happy for the children!
When we got to the school the morning session was almost over. We made our way to the office to wait for Mr. Bogdanovic (the superintendent). He came in shortly and we told him why we were there. Mr. Kogic and the furniture man, Mr. Faruk, came in a few minutes later and we sat in the office discussing the furniture via the interpreters.
L to R - Mr. Faruk, Mr. Kogic, Mr. Bogdanovic and unknown in the office discussion Kindergarten furniture options for Kllokot.
As soon as the classes were done for the morning we went in to the Kindergarten room. The teacher was there and was unbelievable happy to hear why we were there. Dada began talking with Mr. Faruk and the teacher. She knew why we were there so there was really no point in me “telling” her what to say and then having her interpret. So, she would tell me what they were discussing.
L
to R – Mr. Faruk, Kindergarten teacher, Dada and unknown discussing options for
new furniture for the classroom.
Mr. Faruk has brought along a couple of catalogs that had computer furniture in it. He was attempting to talk us in to buying that and we just weren’t interested. So, we shifted to a mode of him building the furniture from scratch. What he was offering and the price at which he was offering really didn’t fit our expectations. We thanked him for his time and decided we would explore other options. While the furniture in the room is just WRONG for those children we decided that it’s better to keep looking and get the furniture by start of next school year than to just “buy” something. I had been in that room before but had never noticed that the tables have sharp edges, that the tables are the height for grown ups and that the children “sit” on benches that in no way could afford them the ability to sit comfortably. It turns out most of them “sit” on their knees in order to be able to reach the tables. We thanked everyone for their time and told the school staff that we would continue in our search for furniture.
We then began to make our way up the street from which the sewage had been coming down into the school yard. We were on our way to “Grandpa’s” but the route took us completely through the finished construction area. While the project is finished and does appear to be working I was shown that the ditch through which the sewage had previously drained was still “open.” I remarked about that and was told that the plan had been to cover the ditch but the local people were adamantly opposed to doing so. Several of the village leaders who were a pain during the entire process seemed to make that a point of argument just to “get their way” about something. Others agreed that it should be covered in case the drainage pipe ever gets stopped up and the overflow goes into the ditch. The feeling is that sooner or later they will cover the ditch. For now it remains open. It did have some water in it which appeared to be rain water runoff and did not have a stench to it.
We walked all of the way up to the beginning of the construction area. KFOR wanted to make sure that one of the locals had placed mesh wire over the opening to the pipe to catch garbage and assist in keeping the pipe from becoming clogged. He had! Additionally a fence, of sorts, had been erected across the area where the pipe begins as a measure to keep people out of that area. Definitely would NOT have passed any code in America but MUCH MUCH better than what had been/not been there and was doing the job.
We turned back towards the school, walked about 100 feet and went through a gate to “Grandpa’s” house. His name is Djordje. He and his son have been instrumental in keeping the sewer project on target as much as they could from the standpoint of “representing” the village by trying to “reign in” the trouble makers. His son was, basically, the “in charge” person in the village. I wish I had written his name down. I know it begins with an “S”. Anyway, “S” had been the person who would select the local men as laborers each day. He knew the men who needed the money the most and those who just wanted the money but whose families were not in the direst straights. Would have been a tough call for me since most of the people in this village seem to all be in dire straights. Non-the-less, KFOR was very impressed with him.
It is told to me that Grandpa and his family are probably the poorest family in the village. As we were walking across the yard I noticed “S” approach with a pair of tennis shoes that look to fit about a 2nd or 3rd grade boy. Turns out they were for his son who is about 2 or 3. That really hit me in the gut! (I’ve sent shoes since my return). Grandpa came out onto the porch to welcome us. He gave me a hug and, via the interpreter, told me that he knew I would come because I had told him I would when he saw me in December. I didn’t remember meeting him in December. Apparently when I was there with the Engineers and CA Grandpa was on the street and invited me to his home then. We were so pressed for time I told him I would come to his home on my next visit. I’m SO glad I did!!! That would have been a MAJOR faux pa!
Grandpa (Djordje) and Leta in his yard – Kllokot, Kosovo. Family members in the
background
We went in to the house. The “summer” room where we were invited to was very sparsely furnished. There were 2 couches along adjoining walls, a coffee table and a wood stove over to one side of the room. That was about it. We were offered tea. Uh oh! This could be bad! I’m just not so sure about the water situation in this village. Last report I had the water wasn’t running and they were getting water from a common well. PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEASE boil that water well!!! I couldn’t say no to the tea. That would have been an awful slap in the face to Grandpa. Guess I’ll just hope for the best! It was good tea!
I loved the way Grandpa always looked me straight in the eye when he talked to me. It was as if he was looking into my soul to determine if I was there with good intentions or not. And, it showed a HUGE sign of respect. I was amazed at some of the comments he made! Let’s just set the stage here – I’m in the home of a SERBIAN man in a SERBIAN enclave and this man is telling me that we are ALL the same – we are humans – we are equal! Why aren’t there more “Grandpas” in this world? This coming from a man who has NOTHING – who can be risking his life when he leaves his enclave. I wanted to stand up and just hug him. Grandpa is a talker for sure. However, everything he said was of interest and was practical yet deep. I hope to get to visit with Grandpa more as I return to Kosovo over the years.
One of Grandpa’s grandchildren was laughing and playing while we were there. I think we all took turns holding her. She was the happiest child! My heart ached when I thought about the future that she will, most likely, have to endure.
SPC Gorman and one of Grandpa’s grandchildren.
Unfortunately we had to end our visit with Grandpa and move on. NOT before he took me into the Winter family room to show me the signed photos of a couple of CA Soldiers that he greatly admires. A bit interesting to their photos on the wall along with religious icons and photos. Forgive me but I had to chuckle!
The Soldiers, Dada and I discussed purchasing a generator for Grandpa and his family. We decided that would be a great idea – HOWEVER – we seriously doubt he would have the financial means with which to purchase fuel to run it. “S” had spent weeks erecting a greenhouse in the yard. I have no idea where/how he got the materials or if it will even work. It was a substantial structure. I decided that when I get home I will send him some basic gardening items, seeds, etc. I hope the greenhouse is successful. It sure would be a big asset to this family and many others for fresh vegetables.
Before we left Kllokot I HAD to see Nikola. He is the young man that I fell in love with during my December visit. He was not at school today so we went to his house and found him there. He said that he was ill but I suspect a case of hooky! I admonished him to attend school EVERY day so that he would have a better future. Dada was laughing so hard the entire time we were there. Poor little Nikola – he could NOT comprehend why this American woman had sought him out to say hello and get a few hugs! She told me that he was very confused by this. I had her explain to him why we came by and to try to put him at ease. He did smile that fantastic smile of his before we left. It was so good to see him. I’ll keep checking up on him as I return.
We loaded in the vehicle and made our way back to Ferizaj. We had lunch at Jimmy’s. It’s a restaurant I had been to before and one that we all like. It’s quiet, has good food and the staff is great. AND, they speak English well! I know shame on us for not speaking Albanian but have you ever tried to speak Albanian? There was no parking in front of Jimmy’s when we got there. Interesting because we arrived well after the lunch hour and there was only one table with people seated. So we parked across the way at the Catholic church. We popped in for a minute to see if Jacob from Caritas was in. He wasn’t so we’ll try to catch him another time.
After lunch we went to the INPO office to say hello. There was no planned presentation. I mostly just wanted to chat a bit with the young adults and see how they were doing. They have been so very busy on great projects and I am VERY proud of them. Dada, Kim and I dashed across the street to the grocery store. I picked up some fresh fruit, soda, juice, chips and cookies for them. They work way into the night and I like to stock them up when I can. I doubt the food lasts very long but that doesn’t matter!
Back to the Ilazis where I took a short nap. We had dinner then tea then called it a day. Short day for us but, again, I’m just not up to par these days.
Kosovo – 7 April 2006 - Friday
Another rainy, cold, dreary morning here in the Balkans. I miss Duke!!! I know I’ll get to see him again before I leave. I just know it! Surely the weather will clear up long enough for me to see that mountain one more time.
I slept well again last night but I sure wish whatever this is that I “have” would go away. Danny offered to take me to a doctor. Uh, REALLY nice of you to ask but I think I’ll just gut this out if that’s OK with you. I’m not really sure about the medical care/level of training and I sure wouldn’t know what I was taking if they prescribed something. Oh, yes, I’m feeling rotten but just not THAT rotten. Hope I didn’t hurt his feelings. Didn’t intend to but……………
We left Ferizaj heading north to Prishtina. Our first mission of the day was to check on rental cars for PTP, Inc. projects this summer. On the way to Prishtina it seemed that the vehicle was just not performing. We would attempt to pass a car and our vehicle wouldn’t pick up speed. Never-the-less, we made it to Prishtina and stopped by the two rental car companies we knew of. The personnel at both agencies were very nice but my goodness their prices were VERY high. Mr. Imeri had mentioned to me that the municipality had rented a van recently and he told me the price. I think we’ll go through him to rent our vehicle. Should be less than half what I was quoted direct.
Our next stop was to pay our respects at the grave site of former President Ibrahim Rugova. President Rugova passed away in January of this year. While I never met him he had the Presidential coin awarded to me via DMP Imeri. He was, by all accounts I have gotten, a man who cared about everyone and who wanted the best for all the people of Kosovo. And, he was a friend to America. The site around where he is entombed is still under construction but the workers all stepped back as we approached and motioned for us to move forward. There were a lot of arrangements still on the tomb and around the area. Most were plastic as is the custom in Kosovo. However, the one that stood out first to me bore a banner reading “United States of America.” The workers invited us to have our photos taken next to the tomb but we declined that offer. Just didn’t seem appropriate to me.
Tomb of former Kosovo
President Ibrahim Rugova in Prishtina, Kosovo.
After paying our respects we quietly walked away and the workers moved back to their tasks. It was a somber moment.
From there we made our way to the University of Prishtina to take Danny to check on the method by which they are able to send his records directly to a university in America. Mail is NOT a good thing there. We wanted to inquire as to whether or not we could pay DHL charges to have the records sent that way. We parked and went in. Danny, bless his heart, had no idea exactly where to go. I loved watching so many of the students come up to him to say hello. I wasn’t surprised but it was another confirmation that he is well known and respected.
There was a mob of students surrounding 2 small windows as well as a LONG line of them going up a stair case. Turns out that was the office that we needed. GREAT!!! This could take hours! Danny begins to knock on a door to the office. No response. He knocks again. The door magically opens a tiny bit and Danny says something to the man who opened the door. What? Americans wanting to see the registrar? Door opens wide – “Please, come this way.” OK, I’ll do it THIS time! In we go. We got the information we needed and were off to our next appointment.
We drove a short distance to the building that houses the Ministry of Culture, Youth and Sports. We were picking up Dyli (last name unknown) to have lunch with us. He is one of the assistance to the Minister of CY&S. I met him in July of 2005. He is a very kind and energetic young man. I had promised him in July 2005 that we would try to come back to Prishtina before I left to meet his family, etc. We just ran out of time. So, I was trying to make good on a promise to come back – VERY important to keep any promises one makes!
He was waiting for us and hopped right in the vehicle. Off we went to Chalet Denis. It’s a restaurant overlooking Prishtina that has the BIGGEST cups of macchiato that I’ve EVER found in Kosovo. Ok, it also has good food and good views! We had a nice lunch and a nice visit. Good to network you know! In his spare time Dyli is the director of BIRD (an NGO in Kosovo). I don’t really know what BIRD stands for (and I should) but I know that I’ve heard they are doing great work. I plan to investigate that more.
After lunch we decided to pop by the SOS Kinderdorff (http://www.sos-childrensvillages.org) to take a look at the furniture in their Kindergarten room. As a sidebar here is an excerpt from the blog of a Soldier who has served in Kosovo:
What a completely remarkable day today was...but then again that isn't all that unusual for my experience so far here in Kosovo. I can't mention in detail everything that we did today, but I can say that we took the time to visit an orphanage in Pristina run by an international NGO called SOS-Kinderdorf. What a remarkable organization, and an incredibly loving group of people who run this so-called orphanage. The environment in this place is clean, sanitary, healthy and full of love for the poor unfortunate children who have either been abandoned, or have lost their families. Most of the children are what might be referred to as normal, but a significant portion of those children being served in this facility are special needs kids who suffer from a variety of medical, emotional, psychological, and learning disabilities. No matter though, these kids are loved by the staff, and are very, very well taken care of. These little ones may have been dealt an unfair hand by fate, but thank God that there are such wonderful people who are willing to give of themselves so freely...I cannot say enough good about what I saw. My faith in humanity is reaffirmed whenever I see things like this.
What a contrast to the way little Gaga and the other children in Klokott live, surrounded by filth and squalor. The children in the orphanage live like little kings and queens, while Gaga lives in a single dirty room with her entire family, and their chickens. I cannot imagine living in a house where there are chickens running around inside the house! Un-freaking-believable!
SOS-Kinderdorf has one orphanage operating here in Kosovo.
We stopped by the office and asked if it would be possible for us to see the furniture in the Kindergarten room. The lady in the office made a call and asked us to take a seat. Within minutes she sent us across the street to the building where the Kindergarten is. Another lady met us at the locked door and gave us entry to the building. She explained that the children were napping but she would be happy to show us the furniture. Danny explained to her why we wanted to see it.
The building was clean, well lit, decorated with colors and pictures and posters that encourage children to discover and learn. I had to remind myself I was in Kosovo! My heart was heavy for both the children who live here and have no families as well as the children who live outside of here in absolute squalor, filth and hunger. WRONG – this is ALL so WRONG!
We quietly stepped in to the Kindergarten room and the children were all sleeping on mats much like one would see in America. I got a little teary eyed. Part of me (the biggest part of me) was happy they were sleeping. I don’t know how I would have reacted to them had they been awake and I had the opportunity to look at all of their faces and into their eyes. A blessing for sure!
The furniture was PERFECT! Low to the ground, rounded edges, length and width we were looking for. We inquired as to where they had gotten the furniture. The lady could not remember but thought she had a catalog in her office. We left the room and waited in the hallway as she disappeared around a corner to retrieve the catalog. She came back empty handed and expressed the idea that “had we called ahead she may have been more prepared.” She was right but we explained that we were “in the neighborhood” and that is why we stopped by. She agreed to continue to look for the catalog and to give Anthony a call when she found it.
We thanked her for her time and departed. We hadn’t been gone 10 minutes when Anthony’s phone rang and she had found the catalog. Well, I’m going to guess that most people reading this have never driven in Prishtina. Turning “around” just wasn’t an option. Anthony told her he would return another day and fetch it. He thanked her again.
Down this hill, around that tight turn, BARELY slipping by this vehicle and that and around another turn – waiting for vehicles to back up to wider spots in the street…..we FINALLY made it out to a main street. Uh oh! Rush hour in Prishtina! Out on to the main road to Ferizaj and through the three lanes down to one funnel. Uh oh again! Vehicle is NOT responding to the gas. Couldn’t get the sucker much over 40 kilometers per hour. At first it was frustrating. Then it became annoying. Finally it became funny and we began to make/take bets on where we would make it back to Ferizaj or not.
Anthony called someone on Camp Bondsteel to report the problem. I’m thankful for each kilometer that passes – one less I figure I’ll have to push the vehicle. We made it back to Ferizaj and decided not to stop and drop me off – better to keep moving. As we approached Camp Bondsteel I bet Anthony 5 Euros that even IF we made it through the gate and through the security checkpoint that he would NEVER be able to get up and over the hill from the front gate towards the back of Camp B where the motor pool is located. He took the bet. We stopped at the gate and ran in to get my badge. Hopped back in the vehicle. Anthony put the vehicle in gear and NOTHING!!! They guards started howling thinking he couldn’t drive. He’s trying to make the vehicle move and trying to explain to the guards all the while rocking back and forth in his seat as if that’s going to make it go. Eventually it did. We rolled up to the security area, stopped the vehicle AGAIN and got out. The Soldiers cleared their weapons and I got searched (the normal routine). BACK in the vehicle. In gear, gas down, no movement. Rocking back and forth in our seats BEGGING it to go. Finally – movement! A small downhill before the BIG uphill along side the flight line. I was already thinking about how to spend my 5 Euros I was about to win. Darn it! He DID make it up the hill.
We SLOWLY drive by the TOC and Kim literally jumped out of the vehicle so we wouldn’t have to stop AGAIN. She was picking up another vehicle to bring to the motor pool so we could off load their gear, etc and have a way back to the CA office until we could figure this out.
By the time we pulled into the motor pool we were all laughing so hard none of us could breathe. Anthony turned the vehicle off and I think we all expected it to explode or something as we scurried out in a hurry. The guys from the motor pool came out and were waving their hands in front of their noses because of the smell. We unloaded the vehicle. I sort of thought it might be appropriate for someone to take out their weapon and shot it. But, NOT appropriate, of course. Just seemed fitting in so many respects.
After a couple more stops on Camp Bondsteel it was back to Ferizaj to go shopping for the food for Anthony’s birthday dinner and to deposit me at the Ilazi’s house. We went to the Euro Market in HOPES of finding the food items I needed for spaghetti and meatballs. I had brought spices, etc. with me but needed ground beef, spaghetti and a few other items – like 20 lbs of potatoes. I know – potatoes don’t go in spaghetti and meatballs. That, my friends is SO beside the point. It’s become a tradition that I make POTS of homemade mashed potatoes with REAL butter and REAL cream when I am in town. So, the birthday dinner was spaghetti and meatballs, mashed potatoes and gravy, garlic bread and goulash (more about that later). Euro market didn’t have everything we needed so we left there and went to Benaf to find the remainder of the items we needed.
We made one more stop – we popped in at PoPo for much deserved macchiato and coffee. It was REALLY crowded and REALLY loud so we didn’t stay long. I’m happy that it was crowded. I would think that would mean good revenues for Resul and the PoPo Theatrical and Poet clubs. Before we left Resul took us on a tour of the outside patio area they are preparing for the warmer weather. I’m excited about that – won’t be so loud out there. AH a place where I’ll be able to sit, relax, visit and sip on that fabulous macchiato! I’m looking forward to that when I return in the summer.
I got picked up around 9:00 AM. After the morning ritual of tea, soup and cheese we made our way to Camp Bondsteel. Stopped at Gate 1 to get my badge (#49 of course. I dropped off more cookies and candy for the guys at the gate. I didn’t bring any yesterday (cuz I didn’t know I was going to Camp Bondsteel) and I sure heard about it! We picked up Dada then we went to the TOC on the flight line. Anthony had arranged for me to have a tour of the flight line. I was SO excited. OK, so we didn’t’ go DIRECTLY to the TOC on the flight line – we weren’t exactly sure WHERE to go so we made a couple of extra stops before we got there.
Once in the TOC we were introduced to a LT who would be our tour guide. Turns out he’s one of the Apache helicopter pilots. He was VERY nice. I HAD to ask him how he was enjoying his tour in Kosovo. I got the answer I expected – something along the lines of “It’s a little slow around here.” While I don’t know MUCH about the Apaches other than what can be read I DO know that there aren’t many Apache pilots in the world and I KNOW that those are some fierce machines. I would imagine that an Apache pilot would be really geared to “GO” as opposed to just flying around with no engagements for months at a time. Just my thoughts.
Anyway, we headed out on the flight line. It was cold. It was cloudy. It was windy. It WAS NOT raining. Hurray! First stop the hanger for the Blackhawks. They had one in for maintenance. I was introduced to a Warrant Officer (I didn’t take paper to write on because of the security of the area so I don’t remember his name) who introduced himself to me as the test pilot. He was very nice and very informative. He asked me if I would like to sit in the Blackhawk. Oh YEAH!!!!
Leta sitting in a Blackhawk while it is undergoing routine maintenance.
I can ONLY imagine how graceful I must have looked climbing over everything. Pity those who were standing behind and subject to, well, my “best” side! What an honor and thrill for this country girl from Arkansas! Sitting in that seat I couldn’t help but think about the Soldiers who fly them, the danger they are often in, the GREAT rescues they make and all of the other wonderful and important missions they complete day after day around the world. I also couldn’t help but think about all of their families and what sacrifices they, too, make while their loved ones are serving. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN I WISH more civilians could have the opportunities I’ve had to actually see so many of our men and women uniform while they are on active duty and working their missions. I KNOW it would make such a difference to those who do not support our military. It IS because of them that all of us are able to do what we do EVERY day without fear by knowing that they ARE protecting us around the world. It often seems unfair to me that I’ve had this honor. I cherish EVERY moment that I have the opportunity to be with our men and women in uniform. And each time I have that honor I wish I could truly find a way to thank them and their families for what they do and for how darn well they do it.
The Warrant Officer then showed me around inside the Blackhawk. The ones in Kosovo are, it seems, primarily fitted for rescue. He explained how many people and how much weight they could carry. I forget what he said and, again, I had nothing on which to write. Doesn’t matter. It was mind boggling to me at the brute strength of that machine. I spent a few minutes talking to the Warrant Officer about his family, etc. He, like most Soldiers I meet, was very easy to talk to, very interested in telling me about his family and what he does. I so appreciated his interest in ME being there.
I figured the last thing they needed was for us to be standing around ogling the helicopters so I thanks the Warrant Officer for his time and we moved to exit the structure. At this point I assumed the tour was over. I just imagined that getting next to an Apache was out of the question. WRONG!!! Once we got outside we made a beeline for the next hanger. They had one in their undergoing maintenance, too. WAY too much going on around it though so we didn’t stay long. Back out the door and instead of turning LEFT to return to the TOC we hung a right out to the flight line. At this point I’ve got a million questions. I asked the first one and the LT said that was classified information. Fair enough – no problem. I asked the second question – classified. I asked the third question – classified. OK, OK, I’m done – no more questions. Just my nature!
Drum roll please………………………………..yes siree! I got to sit in an Apache! Holy Cow! Maybe not a big deal to many but a HUGE big deal and honor to me!
Leta in the back seat of an Apache Helicopter.
I felt like we had taken up way too much of the LT time so I thanked him so very much for showing us around and we headed back towards the TOC. As we got near we said I final good-byes and we headed off to our vehicle. I’m still not sure I’ve come back down to earth from that unexpected and wonderful tour! Thanks Anthony, WC and LT!!!
We dropped Dada and Anthony off and Kim and I went to “Finance” to exchange some money and to buy me a meal ticket so I could eat at the DFAC. I’m still not used to that DFAC (Dining Facility) moniker. Pierce and Honeycutt ALWAYS called it the Mess Hall and I KNOW they were right! Anyway, we got the ticket. Zig zag over to the CA office to pick up anyone who wants to go to lunch. I had to laugh! There are, to my knowledge, 2 DFACs on Camp Bondsteel – one in North Town and one in South Town. Both serve THE SAME menus but, according to CA the North Town DFAC is far superior to South Town. Whatever, North Town DFAC it is!
We parked and as we walked up I had de ja vu! I realized this is the DFAC we came to in July 2005 because it is right next to where CA was housed at the time. They have since been moved from North Town to Mid Town or South Town. I really don’t know which and it really doesn’t matter. I did, however, have a brief moment of remembering my first trip to Kosovo, Camp Bondsteel and my FIRST ever experience in a MESS HALL!!!
We dropped Dada off and Kim and I made out way to the gym. Her birthday was a couple of weeks ago and, although I did send her birthday chocolate chip cookies bars, hats, party favors, paper plates, etc. all in some kiddy motif, I wanted to do something special for her. So, I had arranged for the 2 of us to get massages! Well deserved for her and much needed for me – maybe I’ll feel better after this.
Ah!!!!!!!!! That really was relaxing.
Out of the gym, took a left towards the coffee bar. Saw SSG Vowell sitting at a table with a couple of other men. Stopped to say hello. He introduced us to the outgoing and incoming Commanders of the Irish contingent that is in Kosovo. Then SSG Vowell explained that I was with PTP, Inc. The Irish are aware of some of our projects because they intermesh with what the USA and Irish are doing together and with what we are doing with the USA contingent. It was VERY nice to meet them. They were quite engaging. We discussed the multi ethnic playgrounds we are attempting to have donated to encourage the children to play together and, hopefully, grow up as friends. The Irish have a site they have submitted for one of the playgrounds in their sector.
Next stop to pick up Dada. She is going to spend the night with me at the Ilazi’s tonight. I am SO very excited about that. She and I NEVER have enough time together to just chat. Tonight we will!
I had invited the CA group to dinner tonight to thank them for their work and for their incredible support of PTP, Inc. Only a handful was able to go as several are out of the country for one reason or another. That was too bad. We, did, however, have a great time. We went to the restaurant in Ferizaj where SFC Pointer had his going away dinner. I had heard it was a great place to eat. BUT, I had NOT heard they don’t serve any coffee other than Turkish coffee which I really don’t prefer. Oh, well. No menus at this place. They simply bring out platters of food. Boy was it good and wow was there way too much! They brought out a salad plate, veggies, platters of different kinds and preparations of meat. And the bread! The bread was spectacular! We were STUFFED when we left there.
We all ended up back at the Ilazi house. I had wanted to keep a secret from Anthony but that didn’t happen since CA stayed for a long time. I’m glad they stayed. We all had fun and they relaxed. Hey, it’s Saturday night before Palm Sunday – they deserved a break, right?
OK, about the secret. I made Anthony a birthday cake. I actually made the icing in the USA and brought it with me – glad I did. That would have been almost IMPOSSIBLE to make in Kosovo for many reasons – couldn’t find all of the ingredients (I looked for future reference) and didn’t have a mixer that is NECESSARY for making it. Anyway, I dug out the Wilton 14” round cake pan and began baking 3 layers ONE AT A TIME. All the while we were chopping onions, peeling and chopping garlic, making spaghetti sauce (Anthony was pleased to know that I knew it SHOULD be called spaghetti gravy), making meatballs, etc. Anthony joined right in with us and made both comments and “adjustments” to the sauce as it cooked. I LOVE watching that!
Dada suffering from peeling and chopping onions for the sauce/gravy. Fitori
offering moral support!
Anthony
making sure all of the “residual” from the meatball pan made it into the
spaghetti gravy pot for his birthday dinner. Now that’s an Italian boy mom can
be proud of!
I had been in touch with Anthony’s family before I left for Kosovo. I knew his birthday would be during the time of my trip because Anthony told me via email at least a dozen times. So, I asked his family to send me a photo and told them I would have it made in to edible sugar to put on top of the cake. I thought that would be a nice touch since they couldn’t be with him on is birthday.
Anthony’s 20th birthday cake. I couldn’t resist the pink flamingos. I have NO
idea why! Nice photo of the Pelliccio family!
We had a wonderful night cooking, chatting and laughing. Several local youth came and went during the evening. Although tomorrow is Anthony’s birthday we sort of celebrated it tonight. Dinner and cake tomorrow, though. I love the way the people of Kosovo are so warm and welcoming. Every time a person would arrive there were hugs and greetings all around. It was good to see so many familiar faces come and go through the night. I never get over the fact that these young people walk miles to come and visit. And, I’m always honored that so many of them come just to say hello to me. Since I cancelled a couple of meetings with INPO this week it was also a great opportunity to hear about the projects they are working on.
I am so very proud of these young adults that volunteer their time for INPO. Many of them volunteer 40 or more hours per week. One of their newest projects is the “adoption” of a family in Ferizaj. The family is about to be evicted from their apartment. The husband, not unlike most in Kosovo these days, is not employed. The family is in desperate need of housing, food, clothing and all of the basic necessities of life. INPO is working with the current land lord to allow the family to stay a bit longer while INPO assists them in finding new housing and work. They even have the idea of going around to various construction companies and asking for each of them to donate enough materials so that a home can be built by and for the family. I am amazed at the different resources and ideas they are exploring. This is a test family for them. Once this works out they intend to continue this project with other families.
Kusha was there all night. He is a founding member of INPO. He is a very nice young man. We joke about the fact that he is my “husband”. He always has the biggest smile when I call him that. Kusha hasn’t been able to spend as much time with INPO in the past few months because he has been running a pizza parlor to help with income for his family. From what I am told things are going well and I am very happy about that for him and his family. I’ve had one of his pizzas and it wasn’t bad at all. Most of all it was nice to be able to see him relax for such a long time. He works very long hours AND goes to school, too!
I’m happy to report that we didn’t have any power issues tonight. I was holding my breath about that one with all of the cooking we were doing. The Ilazis have a small toaster-like oven that I used for baking the cakes. I was happy that I didn’t have to use the wood stove and attempt to “control” the temperature while baking.
Adelina has her FIRST experience with licking the icing bowl. Kim and I encouraged her WAY too much. I sure hope she doesn’t get sick over the amount of icing she ate.
Adelina eating icing
after the birthday cake was finished. Her first time ever to do that.
Dada spent the night, too. That was a real treat for me. Unfortunately we were not able to spend any time alone as we had planned. By the time we finished all of the cooking and baking and visiting it was 3:00 AM and we fell in to bed and right to sleep. It was still nice and comforting to know that my very dear friend was in the bed across the room. I will probably miss her the most when I leave this time. But, knowing that I will see her again soon will certainly make it more bearable. Dada’s past is more than amazing and unbelievable but out of respect for her request not to I will not write about it here. Suffice to say that Dada was a teenager/early 20s when communism fell in her homeland. Dada is not the type of person to sit idly by when change is in the air.
Tomorrow we will celebrate Palm Sunday as well as Anthony’s 20th birthday. Looking forward to both.
Kosovo - 9 April 2006 – Palm Sunday
No one was in a big hurry to get up and get moving this morning due to the late night last night. I woke up and went in to the family room around 0900. Dada trundled in about an hour or so later. It was an absolutely gorgeous day! The sun was out, the sky was clear blue and Duke stood majestic over the valley all snow covered and beaming. I had a moment of sadness that there won’t be enough time during this trip to venture up on Duke to see both the snow and the steams flowing with the icy cold snow melt. Maybe next year.
Tromp tromp tromp on the stairs. Who could that be? It’s always anybody’s guess as to who will show up at the Ilazi home but always someone we are happy to see. It’s only a little after 1100. It was Anthony and Kim. They had gone to Mass but the doors to the church were locked. There was no sign anywhere as to why or what time mass was scheduled to be said. They suspected mass was early this morning and were sorry that they had missed it. I suppose they’ll go on Camp Bondsteel later today.
Mrs. Ilazi hurried to prepare soup, out came the cheeses and the hot tea. We all sat around – OK we lounged around today enjoying the time together and the idea that we didn’t have to do one thing we didn’t want to do today. Ahhhhhhhhh!
Dada and Anthony relaxing on Palm Sunday morning. Sorry Dada – guess you owe me one for this. A WELL deserved rest for the birthday boy!!!
The plan is to eat dinner around 1700 and call it a day. HOWEVER, we had no power for most of the morning and into the afternoon. Around 1300 I asked Kim to take me to Camp Bondsteel so I could shower. Off we went. Stopped at the guard house for me pass and to say hello to Force Protection. Bragged about the home cooked meal and birthday cake. Got lots of glares and grumbles about that. Off to the shower. Ah! A REAL shower with hot water and a bit of a “punch” to the level of force in the water stream. I DO miss a good shower. Even when there is water at the Ilazi’s it goes from HOT to COLD without a moments notice. Not so bad in the summer but in the winter I’d rather not have that burst of COLD.
Out the gate, dropped off the pass and back to the Ilazis. Anthony and Dada had been planning for Dada to cook authentic Hungarian goulash. We had shopped at 2 different stores in order to get all of the appropriate ingredients. Dada hadn’t begun making the goulash by the time we got back from Camp Bondsteel. I had to cook and mash the potatoes, cook the pasta, butter, garlic and “toast” the bread and make a few other things. So, we shared the kitchen and got to work. Dada had a difficult time getting the goulash to thicken. Partly because of the stove and partly because of the ingredients. It’s a challenge to cook in an environment that is totally different from what one is used to. But, she got it right on the second try. Put us behind schedule but who cares? It’s Sunday!
Kim probably loves mashed potatoes more than any of the Soldiers I know. She wanted to help with the potatoes so while I was working on other things she graciously peeled and diced for us.
Kim peeling and dicing potatoes. She had to peel more than I needed because she
kept eating them as she went!!!
SFC Bumann showed up on time for dinner. He had stayed back at Camp Bondsteel to work on a paper for one of the classes he is taking while deployed. I don’t know where these Soldiers find the time to do everything they do. Most of them are taking several classes either by correspondence, internet or in a classroom setting at Camp Bondsteel Unfortunately we didn’t get around to eating until 1900 hours. Oops! The power held on until we sat down to eat then out it went. I love all of these meals by candlelight! Seems so “romantic”????
Anthony asked Dada where the goulash was. She pointed to it. He made a face and commented that it didn’t look like the goulash he was expecting. After a bit of conversation I determined that Anthony was expecting to have Stroganoff in lieu of goulash. We all got a huge laugh out of that.
Just as we were about finished with dinner Mr.& Mrs. Ilazi arrived. They had spent the day in a neighboring village with Mr. Ilazi’s family. Mr. Ilazi’s aunt is ill – well, actually, dying. It is tradition in their family (and many others there) for the family to stand watch over a person who is known to be dying. During the week Mr. Ilazi had made several trips out to the village but refused to stay there because I was in town. I tried so hard to have Danny make him understand that being with his family at this time is more important than hanging around the house for when I come home. But, he wouldn’t hear of it. Danny says his aunt is in a coma. I felt very bad for Mr. Ilazi. I could tell on his face how difficult this time is for him. He is such a kind and caring man and an amazing father.
Anyway, we fixed them plates of food. After everyone had eaten we brought out the birthday cake, lit the candles and sang happy birthday to Anthony.
Anthony preparing to make a wish and blow out the candles.
We cut the cake and dished up ice cream for those who wanted it. Adelina helped me serve the cake and ice cream. She did a fantastic job.
It was a wonderful day. But time for the Soldier to return to Camp B. The normal production ensued – lots of hugs and kisses, everyone down the stairs, Kim, Anthony, Terry and Dada stopping to put on and lace up their boots then down the walk and to the vehicle. Those of us left behind stood on the porch to wave good-bye one last time.
From
the rear – Kim, Anthony and Dada leaving the Ilazi’s house after Anthony’s
birthday dinner.
I always have mixed emotions during this daily/nightly “ceremony”. It is just so impossible for me to explain to civilians what it feels like to have the HONOR and PRIVILEGE to be in country and with our Soldiers while they are working – to see them work, to see the way they are received, revered and honored by the Kosovars. I always wish that I could find the way and the words to explain to their families and the public how amazing they are. They are dedicated and devoted to their mission. They work long and hard hours in the most unbelievable conditions and situations. I know that their families are proud of them and appreciate what they do. I KNOW that. But, I also know that the families will never really have the opportunity to “see” this as I have. We always follow them to their vehicle for one last good-bye then we return to the porch. As we stand on the porch while they turn the vehicle around to leave, I observe the locals stopping their cars to give way to KFOR. I watch pedestrians step to the side to let KFOR go by and wave at them and call out kind and sincere greetings and thanks. It often seems as though the whole neighborhood turns out to wish them good bye and good night.
I climbed back up the stairs with the Ilazis. Fitori and I went to the kitchen to begin the clean up and washing of dishes. She and Mrs Ilazi tried, in vain, to send me to bed and leave the mess for Fitori to clean. I was not having that at all!!! During the Christmas visit I allowed them to talk me in to that and it took Fitori hours to hand wash and dry the dishes. I knew if we did this together it would not take so long. And, it didn’t seem right to leave all of the mess to her.
I brought out new boxes of those amazing zip lock bags that they love so much and don’t have in Kosovo. We put all of the left over food in those and stored them away. Then we set about to clean the dishes, pots and pans. Fitori washed and I dried and put away.
Off to bed. Luckily tomorrow is not an early day. I’m tired and still not feeling up to par.
Once in my room I began to organize and think about packing. I cannot believe it is drawing close to time to go home. The more I come here the harder it is to leave each time. Even when I realize we are beginning to make some progress I still always feel like I am leaving something undone each time.
Kosovo - 10 April 2006 – Monday
We began the day at the INPO office for one of the presentations I had postponed earlier in the week. This proposal was presented jointly by INPO and a local journalist. I had met the journalist before and remembered him. Unfortunately, I didn’t write down his name.
I found out during this presentation that there are currently 5 major newspapers in Kosovo – all of them are located in the capital of Prishtina. Therefore, it is rare that local news is reported in print since there is no outlet. This is a big problem. There is no way to present local stories of any kind in order to inform the public. There was a local newspaper in Ferizaj at one time but the funding ran out. As they moved through the presentation I was presented with relative facts and figures. They had definitely done their homework on this. Then the road block. They want the funding to be funneled through INPO in order for this to be tax exempt in Kosovo. Now, I have TOTAL confidence in INPO – funneling the funds through them would NOT be an issue at all. The issue is that INPO is doing monumental work in Ferizaj that is trickling throughout the entire province. So, if the funding funnels through INPO how can anyone (the public) feel confident that the newspaper is not nor will not be biased towards INPO? I see that as a HUGE detriment to what INPO is doing and a big potential blow to their credibility. Unfortunately, INPO and the journalist didn’t see it that way. So, we are at a stand still on that issue. Unless the newspaper applies for and receives some sort of permit I don’t know that PTP would want to be involved in this at all. The journalist explained, via the interpreter, that the newspaper can apply for the permit but that would make them subject to taxation and the paper didn’t want to have to pay taxes due to the fact that they have no money as it is.
Meeting
with local Ferizaj journalist and INPO regarding funding for a local newspaper
They were very passionate about their appeal for assistance. While I totally agree that a local newspaper is nothing but a positive step for Ferizaj I cannot support funneling the funds through INPO. We’ll continue to work with both INPO and the journalist to see if we can find a resolution to this.
We then set off north on the road towards Prishtina. We were on our way to Lipjan which is in the Irish sector. The Irish have requested assistance with securing playground equipment for Lipjan in order for the multi ethnic children to be able to come together and play as CHILDREN – not as Albanians and Serbs. We turned left off of the main road and wound through the valley floor passing little villages and beautiful farm land with no crops planted. I’ve been told on prior visits that this area of Kosovo was once a key area for agricultural crops including vegetables and fruits that were grown for canning and export. I fear that the farmers have no means by which to put in their crops these days.
We arrived at the site that the Irish had indicated for the playground equipment. It was an elementary school located in the village. There was a teacher and a group of children in the school yard participating in physical education when we arrived. I asked the interpreter if the PE class was ethnically mixed. He approached the teacher to inquire. Not only is it not a mixed class but at this school house the Serbian and Albanian students are segregated and must even enter the building via separate entrances. ARGH!!!!!
Entrance to Lipjan elementary school for Albanian students. Proposed playground
area behind Soldiers and interpreters.
Entrance to Lipjan elementary school for Serbian students
We walked around the corner of the building to look at the proposed site for the playground equipment.
Leta
pointing towards the proposed site for the playground equipment in Lipjan. It
is apparent that many games of “soccer” may have been played there.
After reviewing the site and saying hello to a couple of children who were in the area we started back to the vehicle for the drive back to Ferizaj and more meetings.
L to R – Danny, Dada, Anthony and Kim.
(This is one of my all time favorite photos from Kosovo. See more info below in text.)
The photo above is one of my favorites for many reasons. Mostly because of the people in it. Danny is a dear friend, Director of INPO, my Albanian interpreter and I always stay in his family’s home when I am in Kosovo. He is one of the most amazing, intelligent and energetic young people I have ever met. His heart is in the right place regarding Kosovo and what needs to be done there across ethnic boundaries. Dada is my very dear friend and my Serbian interpreter. She spent most of her late teens and early twenties in Belgrade during the resistance. After what she has seen and endured her open mindedness is beyond belief. Additionally she is intelligent and talented – I have a cherished piece of her pottery that is unbelievable. Neither Danny nor Dada is open to talking about what they have been through and seen in their lives. I feel that is partly because neither of them wants any pity. I also feel that it is partly because they do not want to relive the awful times, conditions and events. Over the months both of them have opened up to me a bit about their past. For them to be who they are and where they are in their lives right now is more than amazing and miraculous to me. They are both an inspiration and a blessing to me.
SGT Anthony Pelliccio (recently promoted) works tirelessly. He is one of the most dedicated Soldiers I’ve met. He takes his role as an American Soldier very seriously. He has jumped in to his work in Kosovo with both feet. As a result of the work he is involved in and not wanting to leave anything undone he has volunteered to stay for a second deployment. Oh, he’s young - both idealistic and, at times, a bit too energetic for his own good but I’ve seen him grow so much in the time I have known him and seen him work in Kosovo.
SGT Kim Gorman is one of the most unique individuals I have met. Kim is quiet, intelligent, devoted and dedicated to both the Army and to her mission in Kosovo. Just like Anthony she volunteered to serve a second consecutive deployment that is coming to an end in a matter of weeks. Kim and I talked often and at length about how difficult it is going to be for her to leave Kosovo. Not only has she been so committed to the work she is doing there – she has concerns about returning to a land of “everything” after living and working in a land of “nothing” for so long. She has a love of the people like few I have met.
To say “Thank You” to these 4 individuals doesn’t even begin to convey my gratitude to each of them.
We drove back to Ferizaj. Duke was absolutely gorgeous off to our right.
Once we got back to Ferizaj I bought lunch for INPO as we had another presentation there and several of them were in the office. We popped in to a “hamburger stand” a few doors down and ordered burgers, kabob and soup. They deliver and serve. VERY inexpensive. I always order extra because I know the guys will eat everything. They didn’t disappoint me.
While INPO focuses on projects concerning transparency in government, charitable situations, support and promoting laws, etc. they are also interested in the social aspects of building their province. The presentation they had for me this afternoon was regarding a proposed park. Since I have been going to Kosovo we have ALWAYS parked on this huge concrete lot adjacent to the municipal building. Danny has ALWAYS complained that we park there because it is “a park.” OK, it’s a HUGE slab of concrete but if you want to call it a park Danny we’ll humor you! While the public is not allowed to park there as you have to go through a “security” gate, KFOR, UN, public officials, etc. always park there. Well, one of the younger members of INPO (sorry I don’t know his name but I recognized him) had put together the most amazing interactive program showing their proposed park. It was well prepared, well thought out for the most part and, admittedly, beautiful. Aside from wanting the space to be attractive they want people to have a place to gather and meet. It is a good idea but, quite honestly, it won’t be a priority for me right now – education is our top priority. I did take their project proposal and I will search for organization to which it can be submitted when……I have time.
We left the INPO office and went to the Ilazi’s house. I am taking them, Kim, Anthony and Dada to dinner tonight at a nice restaurant. It’s sort of become a tradition. When we got to Danny’s house his father was not there – he had returned to the village to be with his family and his aunt who is very ill. I feel so sorry for them because they have no means for medical assistance. It’s just so wrong!
Danny’s mother and sisters had dressed up like they were going to a Hollywood premium or some special event. They looked wonderful. I decided to drive Danny’s car. I’m always reminded of the clown cars at a circus when I do that. The driver’s door doesn’t work so you have to climb in through the passenger side. And, it is VERY small. VERY small. Danny and his 2 oldest sisters road with us. We went to Nature’s because it has good food and is close. We had a great meal and a wonderful time. They all ate well and I was happy for that.
Dinner at Nature’s with the Ilazis, KFOR and Dada
We took the family back home then left to meet Mr. Imeri and Mr. Zefi for coffee and to say good-bye. We met them at a local gas station. For some reason it is not uncommon for some gas stations in Kosovo to have either a restaurant or a coffee shop “built in.” When Mr. Imeri walked in there were several men in the coffee shop who recognized him, waved and spoke. I was feeling really awful and, honestly, just wanted to crawl in bed and pull the covers over my head. I’m leaving tomorrow – the trip back home is long and brutal and I’m really not sure if I can do it or not. Oh well – I’ll deal with that tomorrow! We had a nice visit. At one point Danny excused himself. Uh, Danny, what are we to do for an interpreter. Bless Dada – she stepped right in. Between Mr. Zefi and Mr. Imeri and Dada we made it through!
KFOR dropped me at the Ilazis. I was tired and spent. I walked in to the family room and Danny’s mother had a long face on. Tears welled up in her eyes. NO!!!! Not tonight. PLEASE not tonight. I’m tired. I don’t feel well and I’m emotionally spent. Time in Kosovo brings me in to a reality that I need but find very uncomfortable and totally emotionally draining. How do these people continue to survive in these conditions as well as they do? How? From where does their spirit rise? Where do they get the motivation to continue to be optimistic and positive? Honestly – I am so not worthy to have this experience. I can only hope that I do the right things with the opportunities that have been presented to me. I realize ANY little difference made is HUGE here. I have to continue to hold on to that realization.
I decided to go to my room and do a little packing and pull myself together. BAD idea that turned out to be. On the door to my room was a sign that Adelina had drawn and colored in. It said, “We love you Leta – our big sister.” All I wanted to do was open the door, go in to the room and close the door – maybe that barrier will allow me to regroup. WRONG again! When I opened the door my room was covered in flowers – on the floor, on the bed – EVERYWHERE. Notes were all over as well. And, propped up on my bed was a HUGE white teddy bear holding a long stemmed rose and another note. I sat down and wept like a child. As I sat there literally shaking my mind kept running from thoughts of how I couldn’t do this – I’m a grown woman to what did I ever do to deserve this opportunity in life to how will I ever do anything to deserve the love of this family and many other emotions and thoughts. After a time I finally pulled myself together enough to go back downstairs. Once I entered the family room and saw the faces I put on a smile and announced there would be NO TEARS!!!! If there were any more tears I would go to bed and I really wanted to have hot tea and visit before leaving tomorrow. Luckily they followed the “rules” and we had a great time.
I finally climbed the stairs, packed and fell in to bed totally spent in every way.
Kosovo - 11 April 2006 – Tuesday
It’s “D” day – departure day. No KFOR coming by to pick me up. No meetings to attend. No roaming about Ferizaj or the province evaluating potential projects. Just a few last good byes then off to the airport in Prishtina. These departures are becoming more and more difficult and I’m not sure how I feel about that. I find it interesting that several of my long time friends at home are fearful that I’m going to just pick up one day and move to Kosovo. No, that’s not in the plans nor, I imagine, in the cards. I do plan to spend much more time here as the foundation is funded and grows. But, at some point we will have the projects in place and sustaining themselves and will move on to other countries and regions.
We crammed my luggage, Danny and me in to his car and drove to a parking lot outside the entrance to Gate 1 at Camp Bondsteel. Kim was waiting to pick us up and escort us in. One last stop at the guard shack to obtain “my” badge #49. Up the stairs, through the door, exchange greetings – WHAT??????????????????? There is NO BADGE in the slot of #49. You’ve GOT to be kidding me!!! The Force Protection gentleman on duty explains that someone who “didn’t know” gave it to another visitor. Fine – give me #13. NOT a good sign. Of course, I’m just kidding. Oh, the exchange did occur but in good fun. Hop back in the vehicle and roll up to the checkpoint where I get out, assume the position to be wanded and searched. Say a quick hello/good bye and thanks to the guys then back in the vehicle and to the TOC and the red badge that allows entry.
LTC Perez (G-5) had made time in his busy schedule to meet with me for a few minutes. I was thankful for the opportunity to get to bring him up to date on what had transpired during this visit as well as to say a huge thanks and good bye.
Spent some time in the Civil Affairs office.
We then hopped back in the vehicle and drove to the Civil Affairs office. I think it’s in North Town but it may be in Mid Town. I don’t really know where the “dividing line” is. Lots of hugs and “remembering.” Gave my deepest thanks and gratitude to those who were there. Then picked up SFC Bumann and off to the DFAC in North Town for lunch. Danny and Dada had their requisite vegetarian fare. Kim had her requisite mash potatoes smothered in gravy and cheese – how DOES she stay so thin? We took one of the largest tables with Danny, Dada, Anthony, Terry and me on one side and Kim all alone on the other side. It was a HUGE round table so it was practically impossible for us to talk to Kim. Some situations are unexplainable but this seating “arrangement” was typical given the group. Believe me – we DO all love each other – just one of those “expected” events with us.
After lunch I gave Terry a big hug and good bye and he struck off to the shopette for something as we climbed in the vehicle for the trip to Prishtina and the airport. One of the CA Soldiers who has been on R&R leave is arriving about half and hour before my flight leaves so it’s a 2 for 1 trip.
We left in time to stop at Chalet Denis for that last cup of macchiato. When we walked in the waiter we always seem to have recognized me and waved hello. We ordered and he automatically brought me the HUGE cup. The others got the normal size. Of course we all laughed about that.
As we began driving towards the airport I wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to get on the airplane or not. I probably SHOULD be going to a doctor and not flying. Oh well….
We parked, grabbed my bags and headed to the terminal. As we got close we saw another CA Soldier, SFC Quigley, with 2 other guys. Turns out they were at the airport to pick up a group of Kosovo fire fighters who have been to the US on an exchange for training.
I put my bags through the bag scanner and walked through the scanner myself. I turned around and – NO Danny. What? Where is he? He is, after all, my interpreter. I yelled for him but he couldn’t hear me. They all walked around the side of the building out of sight. I attempted to go for him but security wouldn’t let me. Uh oh. What am I going to do now? The security people assured me that “someone” would be able to speak English. As it turned out that was the case. I checked in then exited the airport for a few last minutes with my friends.
They needed to leave to go to the APOD (military airport adjacent to the public one) to pick up the returning Soldier so we hugged good bye and I stood and watched them walk away, get in the vehicle and leave. Well, this is a first. No one in the airport with me. I guess I really am comfortable here now.
Through the second security checkpoint and to the gate area. As I stood there waiting for our time to board and looking at our airplane sitting just outside with the stairs pushed up as if inviting us aboard I saw the military plane land. I was happy that it was on time so they didn’t have to wait. Boarded the plane for Vienna. Connected to Zurich. Off to the hotel for about 5 hours sleep.
Early flight from Zurich to Atlanta. One of the flight attendants recognized me from my first trip in July 2006. How funny was that? We chatted a bit then I fell asleep for most of the 10 ½ hour flight. Connected for the last flight home.